iCTl  iW!  ^ 

-  '.'*.      \  r 


:  l 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


THE  GASTRONOMY  COLLECTION  OF 
GEORGE  HOLL 

AGR1C. 
LIBRARY 


II 


i ,  Jit  ..-*&. .  JK  .  Jfe  Je.  Jfe  J&  Jfe. 
•^•^J^f 


f,S)      ^fl 


:*.  JW.  Jife  J 

.llllli 


' 


JLlL  J 
^ 


Book  of  Sauces 


By  C.  Herman  Senn 
u 

Author  of  "Practical  Gastronomy",  "The 
Twentieth  Century  Cookery  Book",  etc. 


Copyright  1915  by  C.  Herman  Senn 


Published  by 

The  Hotel  Monthly  Press 

950  Merchandise  Mart 
Chicago,  111. 


PREFACE 


Since  sauces  accompany  practically  every 
dish,  whether  it  be  savory  (fish  or  meat)  or  a 
sweet,  it  follows  that  sauce-making  constitutes 
a  most  important  branch  in  cookery.  An  apol- 
ogy is  therefore  nardly  needed  for  the  publica- 
tion of  a  volume  devoted  entirely  to  the  art  of 
preparing  sauces. 

It  was,  I  believe,  the  great  maitre-chef  Ca- 
reme  who  put  a  premium  on  any  original  crea- 
tion in  cookery.  To  him  it  mattered  little  if 
people  criticised  adversely  new  dishes  which  he 
introduced.  He  had  such  confidence  in  his 
ability  to  create  something  artistic  as  well  as 
original  that  he  could  afford  to  wait  while  his 
rivals  endeavored  to  spoil  the  reputation  of  his 
Hollandaise  or  Salmis.  Today  an  innovation  in 
cookery  is  subjected  to  practically  the  same  fire 
of  criticism.  One  season  it  is  the  introduction 
of  a  new  Entree  or  Hors-d'oeuvre,  the  next  the 
culinary  world  sits  in  judgment  on  a  certain 
sauce  which  becomes  fashionable  as  an  adjunct 
to  a  famous  Entree  or  Entremet. 

Whilst  disclaiming  originality  of  the  many 
standard  sauces  which  are  treated  in  this  book, 
all  of  which  are  to  be  found  in  most  of  the 
complete  cookery  manuals,  a  large  number  of 
compound  and  auxiliary  sauces  combining  en- 
tirely new  creations  have  been  included  in  this 
book. 

It  is  hoped  that  this  collection  of  sauce 
recipes,  which  is  claimed  to  be  the  largest  and 
most  complete  ever  published  in  one  volume, 
will  meet  the  wants  of  professional  cooks  as 
well  as  amateurs,  and  thus  fulfill  a  useful  mis- 
sion. With  the  exception  of  standard  and 
stock  sauces,  the  ingredients  given  with  each 
recipe  are  based  to  be  sufficient  for  a  full  serv- 
ice of  six  or  seven  persons. 

C.  H.  S. 


LIBRARY 

THE  BOOK  OF  SAUCES 

The    History    of    Sauce    Making. 

Sauces,  according  to  the  famous  maftres,  chefs 
and  culinary  artists  of  the  past,  Careme  and 
Soyer,  "are  to  cookery  what  grammer  is  to  lan- 
guage, and  melody  is  to  music  M;  whilst  that  intel- 
lectual causeur,  the  Marquis  de  Cussy,  goes  so  far 
as  to  call  the  artist  in  sauces  "an  enlightened 
chemist — the  creative  genius  of  the  high-class 
cuisine. ' ' 

When  the  practice  first  began  of  roasting  food 
— particularly  meat — on  the  spit,  broiling  it  on 
the  gridiron,  and  boiling  it  in  large  cauldrons, 
sauces  and  gravies  did  not  come  into  the  reckon- 
ing as  yet,  the  instinctive  desire  for  them  being 
satisfied  instead  by  various  aromatic  herbs  and 
saline  (from  which  is  derived  "salsa, "  the  word 
from  which  our  "  sauce "  comes)  adjuncts  to  the 
meal.  It  is,  in  fact,  only  the  very  choicest  morsels 
of  meat,  and  these  only  when  prepared  by  the  most 
skilful  hands,  which,  when  roasted,  fried,  or  grilled 
are  found  savory  without  sauce,  for  these  contain 
sufficient  juice  to  prevent  them  from  being  dry 
and  insipid.  The  Englishman  even  of  the  present 
day  scorns  the  sauces  of  German  cookery;  but  is 
glad  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  a  good  French 
sauce  served  with  roast,  baked,  or  fried  meat,  or 
with  plain  boiled  vegetables. 

That  there  is  a  standing  need  for  liquid  adjuncts 
for  food  is  indisputable.  The  modern  English 
method  furnishes  a  very  good  illustration  of  the 
way  in  which  the  typical  sauce,  brought  to  perfec- 
tion by  the  French,  has  passed  through  various 
stages  to  the  lofty  eminence  it  now  holds.  The 
ancient  Greeks  and  Romans  certainly  did  prepare 
sauces,  but  theirs,  as  certain  others  of  to-day,  not 
only  had  no  methodical  relation  to  the  dishes  they 
accompanied,  but  were  often  glaringly  unsuited 
thereto.  For  instance,  the  following  two  sauces, 
one  for  meat  and  the  other  f OIL  mushrooms,  are 

' 


4  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

recommended  by  Apicius,  the  great  Roman  gas- 
tronomer of  Tiberius'  time.  The  former  is  com- 
posed of  pepper,  dried  herbs,  coriander-seed,  rue, 
fish-brine,  honey,  and  a  little  oil,  all  well-ground 
and  thoroughly  mixed.  For  the  sauce  for  mush- 
rooms the  ingredients  are:  oil,  thyme,  beans,  cara- 
way-seeds, salt,  pepper,  ginger,  wine,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  the  mysterious  "sylphium,"  now 
thought  to  be  assafoatida.  It  goes  without  saying 
that  pungent  sauces  like  these  must  completely 
overpower  and  alter  the  individual  flavor  of  any 
kind  of  food.  The  cooks  of  ancient  Eome,  making 
a  virtue  of  necessity,  needed  to  vie  with  each  other 
in  giving  quite  a  different  taste  to  the  meats  they 
prepared;  imparting  to  pork,  for  instance,  the  fla- 
vor of  partridge;  to  goose,  that  of  fish;  and  to 
tunny,  that  of  veal.  This  absurd  mania  reaches 
its  climax  in  the  performance  of  that  French  cook 
who  is  said  to  have  prepared  a  delicious  ragout 
from — a  leathern  glove!  ''But  the  sauce!  that 
is  my  secret,  my  work  of  art,  my  glory ! ' ' 

The  cooks  of  the  Middle  Ages  were  rather  lavish 
in  the  use  of  salt,  pepper,  and  other  condiments, 
much  more  so  than  those  of  antiquity;  this  is 
shown  by  a  cookery  book  by  Moutardier-Gilde,  pub- 
lished in  1394.  Sugar  and  other  sweet  substances 
were  also  used  in  abundance  by  the  cooks  of  that 
period;  and  thus  the  sauces  affected  then  became 
a  heterogeneous  melange  which  would  almost  hor- 
rify our  modern  taste.  Let  us  take  two  or  three 
examples.  For  roast  goose:  chief  ingredient,  milk, 
stirred  over  the  fire  with  flour,  salt,  pepper,  saf- 
fron, pounded  almonds,  and  goose-dripping;  the 
name  of  this  concoction  is  given  as  ' '  goose-milk. ' ' 
Served  with  roast  beef:  roasted  apples,  raisins, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  ginger,  and  sugar  and  port  wine 
boiled  together  and  strained,  the  whole  forming  a 
kind  of  sauce  called  ' '  Probeat. ' J  We  thus  see  that 
the  Middle  Ages  had  but  little  to  teach  us  in  our 
culinary  affairs,  and  especially  so  far  as  sauces 
are  concerned. 

"When  the  gastronomic  reforms  begun  in  all  its 
glory  under  Catherine  de  Medicis  and  Anne  of 
Austria  revealed  French  cookery  (the  basis  of  all 
good  international  cookery  in  our  own  times)  it 
was  perceived  that  the  one  and  only  use  of  a 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  5 

sauce  was  to  heighten  the  flavor  of  a  special  dish. 
It  was  Marperger  who,  in  1718,  instituted  the  use 
of  the  word  "tunke"  in  Germany  for  "  sauce 
proper,77  to  distinguish  it  more  accurately  from 
"gravy, "  with  which  the  German  name  "sause" 
or  "sulze"  was  apt  to  be  confused.  Even  now  the 
word  for  sauce  in  Low  German  is  "tunke"  or 
"stippe, "  the  characteristic  of  this  preparation 
in  some  parts  of  Germany  being  that  it  is  of  a 
consistency  to  allow  of  the  people  dipping  ("tunk- 
ing"  or  "stipping")  morsels  of  solid  food  in  it; 
while  in  their  thin  gravy  on  the  other  hand,  they 
would  let  the  pieces  swim  till  dissolved,  the  whole 
being  then  drunk  as  liquor.  A  correct  sauce  is 
that  wonderful  production  of  the  culinary  art 
which  forms  so  pleasant  and  exquisite  an  accom- 
paniment to  all  kinds  of  fish,  meat,  poultry,  and 
game,  or  vegetables.  The  onion-flavored  cream 
sauce  "Soubise"  is  said  to  have  been  invented 
by  the  Lord  High  Steward  the  Marquis  de 
Bechamel,  whilst  history  tells  us  that  the  brown 
onion  "  Sauce  Kobert"  owes  its  name  by  being 
the  head  cook  of  King  Francis  I. 

The  skill  and  knowledge  of  a  cook  is  shown  in 
no  other  part  of  the  culinary  art  so  prominently 
than  in  the  way  in  which  his  or  her  sauces  are 
prepared.  To  be  able  to  make  a  perfect  sauce  is 
indeed  the  height  in  the  art  of  cooking. 

The  most  simple  dishes  can  be  made  relishable  by 
the  addition  of  a  good  plain  sauce,  whilst  the  most 
recherche  dishes  can  be  improved  and  be  made 
still  more  palatable  by  a  well-made  sauce,  just  as 
a  good  painting  is  made  smarter  by  being  var- 
nished. 

Sauces  in  cookery  may  be  termed  the  essence  of 
elegance  of  dishes  with  which  they  are  served. 

Before  we  enter  into  the  various  details  of  prep- 
aration of  the  compositions  of  sauces,  I  am  anxious 
to  point  out  that  every  sauce,  whether  plain  or 
rich,  must  possess  a  decidedly  distinct  flavor  and 
character.  There  are  many  plain  sauces  which  are 
made  quickly  and  of  materials  usually  at  hand. 
Let  these  be  as  the  name  implies,  simple  and  pure, 
so  that  they  may  merely  taste  of  the  materials 
employed,  from  which  such  sauces  take  their  name. 

Eicher  sauces  always  require  a  longer  and  slower 
process  for  their  preparation. 


6  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Until  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century, 
the  art  of  sauce  making  was  hardly  known  in  Eng- 
land. The  charge  made  at  that  time  against  the 
English  nation  by  a  celebrated  epigrammist,  who 
said  that  we  had  many  religions  but  only  one  sauce, 
would  hardly  hold  good  today,  for  it  is  reckoned 
that  there  are  at  least  650  different  sauces  and 
gravies  known  at  this  moment.  An  ingenious  cook 
will  have  as  little  trouble  to  form  that  number  of 
sauces  in  different  varieties,  as  a  musician  with  his 
seven  notes,  or  a  painter  with  his  pallet  and  col- 
ors; nor  is  it  too  much  to  assert  that  there  is  no 
other  branch  in  cookery  which  offers  better  oppor- 
tunities to  display  the  ability  of  a  cook  than  this. 

The  art  of  sauce  making  consists  in  preparing 
liquids  from  various  materials  by  cleverly  extract- 
ing and  combining  certain  flavors  into  the  liquid. 
Besides  this  the  gift  of  a  good  palate  is  essential, 
which  likewise  requires  all  the  experience  and  skill 
of  the  most  accomplished  cook,  as  well  as  a  thor- 
ough knowledge  of  the  taste  of  those  for  whom  he 
or  she  is  cooking. 

Distinction  between  Sauces  and  Gravies:  As 
there  are  many  people  who  do  not  know  the  dis- 
tinction between  sauces  and  gravies,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  devote  a  few  words  to  this  subject,  so  as  to 
make  this  quite  clear.  A  gravy  is  not  a  sauce, 
but  simply  the  juices  of  meat  (roasted  or  braised 
meat)  seasoned  but  without  being  thickened,  whilst 
a  sauce  may  be  defined,  using  the  most  general 
term,  as  a  liquid  seasoning  containing  some  kind  of 
liaison  or  thickening  which  is  employed  in  the 
presentation  of  food. 

According  to  the  chief  dictionaries,  a  gravy  may 
be  called  a  sauce,  although  a  sauce  is  not  always 
a  gravy.  Many  of  the  ' '  grande ' '  sauces  contain  gra- 
vies for  their  foundation  which  are  used  in  a 
concentrated  form  to  enrich  the  flavor  of  such 
sauces.  It  is  therefore  more  distinctive  to  call 
liquids  pure  and  simple  gravies,  and  liquids  thick- 
ened with  flour  or  other  ingredients  sauces,  such 
as  "liaisons/7  thickenings  or  bindings. 

Liaisons:  The  various  processes  of  thickening 
sauces  as  well  as  soups  are  called  liaisons.  There 
are  six  distinct  methods  known  for  thickening 
sauces : 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  7 

1.  Liaison  with  roux. 

2.  Liaison  with  eggs. 

3.  Liaison  with  butter  and  cream. 

4.  Liaison  with  kneaded  butter  and  flour. 

5.  Liaison  with  blood. 

6.  Liaison     with     cornflour,     arrowroot,     or 
ferula. 

Koux:  The  most  popular  and  most  generally 
adopted  thickening  is  effected  by  means  of  roux. 
It  is  therefore  necessary  to  first  give  a  few  details 
to  define  the  word  roux  in  regard  to  its  culinary 
meaning. 

Literally  the  word  means  russet,  but  in  the  cul- 
inary sense  it  is  a  mixture  of  flour  and  butter 
cooked  or  blended  to  certain  degrees,  to  white,  to 
brown,  or  to  fawn  colors.  The  quantity  of  flour 
and  butter  employed  are  used  in  equal  propor- 
tions. If  made  beforehand  in  large  or  small  quan- 
tities, it  should  be  kept  in  covered  jars,  when  it 
will  keep  good  for  months.  A  tablespoonful  ii 
usually  found  sufficient  to  thicken  a  pint  of  liquid. 
Stock-roux  must  always  be  kept  in  a  cool  place 
and  ready  at  hand  for  use. 

If  used  cold  it  may  be  mixed  with  cold  or  hot 
stock,  but  if  mixed  cold,  it  must  be  stirred  con- 
stantly over  the  fire  until  boiling;  or  if  mixed 
hot,  the  liquid  should  be  poured  by  degrees  into 
the  roux  away  from  the  fire,  and  then  stirred  over 
the  fire  till  it  boils. 

Special  precaution  must  always  be  exercised  in 
making  a  sauce  with  a  roux  thickening,  that  the 
temperature  is  lowered,  or,  in  other  words,  that 
the  roux  is  allowed  to  cool  a  little  before  the  liquid 
stock  or  gravy  is  added.  This  will  prevent  the 
sauce  from  getting  lumpy,  and  will  do  much 
towards  making  a  sauce  perfectly  smooth.  All 
roux  must  be  stirred  constantly  during  the  process 
of  cooking,  i.  e.,  frying. 

White  Roux  (Roux  Blanc) :  This  is  a  mixture 
of  flour  and  water,  cooked  in  a  stew-pan,  on  a 
moderate  fire,  without  allowing  it  to  attain  any 
color,  whereby  it  should  retain  its  original  white 
color. 

Blonde  or  Fawn  Roux  (Eoux  Blond):  This  is 
made  by  melting  a  certain  quantity  of  butter,  and 
stirring  in  the  same  or  a  less  quantity  of  sifted 


8  THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES 

flour,  and  by  cooking  it  over  a  slow  fire  or  in  the 
oven  until  it  has  acquired  a  light  blonde  or  fawn 
color. 

Brown  Roux  (Eoux  Brun) :  This  is  the  so-called 
Stock-Koux,  which  can  be  prepared  in  large  quan- 
tities to  be  used  cold  as  required  as  before 
explained. 

It  is  made  exactly  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
foregoing,  with  the  exception  that  it  is  fried 
longer  until  it  becomes  a  darker  color,  a  chest- 
nut brown,  or  russet  brown.  It  is  best  to  finish 
the  roux  in  a  slack  oven,  for  the  slower  the  process 
the  better  the  blending  and  the  finer  the  aroma 
of  the  sauce  will  subsequently  be. 

Eoux  Liaison:  This  liaison  is  made  by  pouring 
prepared  strained  stock  gradually  into  the  stew- 
pan  containing  the  roux,  which,  as  before  ex- 
plained, must  be  allowed  to  cool  off  a  little.  The 
contents  is  then  stirred  over  a  slow  fire  until  it 
boils,  and  is  then  allowed  to  simmer  until  it  at- 
tains the  desired  consistency.  With  brown  and 
blonde  sauces  the  roux  employed  is  usually  made 
up  with  a  "mirepoix"  to  introduce  the  necessary 
flavorings.  This  item  ' '  mirepoix ' '  is  more  fully 
explained  further  on. 

Egg  Liaison:  This  is  a  thickening  composed  of 
yolks  of  eggs  beaten  up  and  diluted  with  a  small 
quantity  of  cream,  milk,  or  cold  white  stock.  Cream 
is  more  often  used  than  stock.  The  sauce  to  which 
this  liaison  is  added  must  necessarily  be  boiling, 
it  is  then  removed  to  the  side  of  the  stove,  when 
a  ladleful  of  sauce  is  stirred  into  the  egg  mixture, 
then  the  whole  is  poured  into  the  sauce,  and  stirred 
over  the  fire  (slow)  for  several  minutes,  without 
permitting  it  to  boil. 

Every  sauce  or  soup  which  is  thickened  with 
eggs  should  be  passed  through  a  tammy  before 
it  can  be  served.  This  liaison  is  used  largely  for 
blanquettes,  white  ragouts,  and  fricasses  as  well 
as  for  soups. 

Butter  and  Cream  Liaisons:  Butter  and  cream 
are  incorporated  in  equal  proportions  into  sauces 
and  soups,  just  before  they  are  wanted  for  serving. 
Stir  vigorously  without  reheating.  The  flavor  of 
any  sauce  would  become  altered  if  butter  or  cream 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  9 

were  added  too  soon,  or  if  a  sauce  were  again 
allowed  to  boil.  The  same  may  be  said  of  butter 
liaisons.  By  this  process  a  quantity  of  cold  fresh 
butter  is  added  in  small  bits  to  sauces  the  moment 
they  are  taken  off  the  fire,  they  are  then  stirred 
with  a  whisk  and  served  without  being  reheated. 

Kneaded  Butter  Liaison:  Incorporate  or  knead 
as  much  flour  into  butter  as  it  will  absorb  to  form 
a  soft  paste,  and  to  mix  it  in  small  portions  into 
a  thin  sauce  (hot),  stirring  it  constantly  until  all 
the  butter  is  melted,  constitutes  what  is  called  a 
kneaded  butter  liaison. 

Blood  Liaison:  This  is  mostly  used  with  hare 
or  other  game  entree  sauces.  It  is  made  by  pre- 
serving the  blood  of  hare  or  game,  to  which  is 
added  a  little  vinegar  to  prevent  it  from  coagulat- 
ing; it  is  then  strained  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
stirred  gradually  into  sauces  a  few  minutes  before 
serving.  This  kind  of  liaison  is  but  little  used 
now. 

Farinaceous  Liaisons:  Arrowroot,  corn-flour, 
potato-flour,  rice  flour  (f^gulae),  or  other  similar 
farinaceous  preparations  are  frequently  used  for 
thickening  sauces.  Dilute  one  or  the  other  of  these 
with  a  little  milk,  cold  stock,  or  water,  pour  it 
through  a  strainer  into  boiling  liquid,  stir  contin- 
ually until  it  boils,  then  simmer  gently  for  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  longer. 

Mirepoix:  Although  the  word  mirepoix  is  a 
common  term  in  culinary  matters,  it  does  not  in 
the  least  imply  or  make  clear  what  it  constitutes. 
It  is  one  of  the  many  words  which  the  gastronomic 
authorities  ought  to  abolish  and  substitute  with  a 
more  appropriate  one,  one  that  conveys  more 
clearly  the  meaning  of  the  composition  of  the  title 
it  bears.  History  tells  us  that  Mirepoix  was  a 
Duke  whose  wife,  being  a  clever  cook,  became  a 
favorite  with  Louis  XV.  I,  however,  fail  to  see 
what  this  has  to  do  with  this  culinary  adjunct 
used  in  the  preparation  of  sauces  and  soups, 
braises,  and  stews.  To  come  to  the  point,  let  me 
explain  that  a  "  mirepoix "  is  nothing  less  than 
an  essence  or  extract  of  meat  and  vegetables,  one 
of  the  most  useful  preparations  to  impart  flavor 


10  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

of  exquisite  richness  in  various  kinds  of  sauces, 
soups,  and  other  culinary  preparations. 

To  make  a  mirepoix  properly,  use  the  following 
ingredients:  ^  Ib.  bacon  (ham  or  gammon)  cut 
into  small  pieces,  1  carrot  (slices),  1  or  2  bay- 
leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  2  small  onions  (sliced), 
a  clove  of  garlic,  2  shallots. 

Fry  these  carefully  without  actually  browning, 
and  the  mirepoix  proper  will  be  complete.  It  will 
afterwards,  according  to  requirements,  be  diluted 
and  boiled  up  with  wine,  sherry,  chablis,  sauterne, 
or  claret,  which  will  be  added  to  stock  or  to  sauce 
to  simmer  in  it  and  to  give  it  the  desired  flavor. 

Many  chefs  do  not  consider  a  mirepoix  complete 
without  a  certain  quantity  of  veal  or  other  lean 
meat,  being  added.  This  I  maintain  to  be  waste- 
ful, as  the  stock  employed  should  contain  the 
necessary  flavor  of  meat  needed.  The  addition 
of  bacon  or  ham  has,  on  the  other  hand,  quite  a 
different  effect  as  to  its  flavor,  and  I  cannot 
speak  too  highly  of  it. 

Essences  of  Meat,  etc.:  Essences  or  extracts  of 
meat,  fish,  poultry,  and  game  are  largely  employed 
in  the  various  sauce  preparations.  These  are  de- 
coctions or  concentrated  liquids  containing  as 
much  as  possible  of  the  flavors,  which  by  certain 
processes  are  reduced  to  the  consistency  of  half- 
glaze. 

To  make  an  Essence:  The  materials  from  which 
the  essence  takes  its  name  are  put  in  a  stew-pan 
with  a  quantity  of  rich  stock,  wine,  vegetables,  and 
herb  flavoring.  When  sufficiently  simmered  the 
liquor  is  strained  into  another  stew-pan,  and  when 
thoroughly  skimmed  and  freed  from  fat  it  is  re- 
duced to  the  consistency  needed  and  put  by  for 
use  when  required. 

The  following  essences  are  those  most  frequently 
used  in  high-class  kitchens: 

Ham  essence,  truffle  essence,  fish  essence,  mush- 
room essence,  chicken  essence,  rabbit  essence,  game 
essence,  pheasant,  woodcock,  snipe,  partridge  and 
lark  essence,  etc. 

These  essences  are,  of  course,  used  to  enrich 
certain  sauces,  so  as  to  make  their  characteristic 
flavor  more  conspicuous.  It  is  needless  to  add  that 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  11 

the  use  of  essences  is  only  adopted  for  very  rich 
sauces,  etc. 

Fumet:  A  fumet  is  very  much  the  same  prepa- 
tion  as  essences,  but  much  richer,  being  reduced 
with  sherry  or  madeira  wine.  Fumet,  in  other 
words,  may  be  termed  the  flavor,  being  in  reality 
the  condensed  steam  which  rises  from  certain 
cooked  and  raw  meats,  game,  or  poultry,  whereby 
a  most  exquisite  and  agreeable  flavor  is  obtained. 
For  a  fumet  the  raw  ingredients  required  are 
usually  saute"ed  in  the  first  instance,  after  which 
a  bouquet  of  herbs,  stock,  and  wine  are  added  for 
reduction  purposes. 

Foundation  Sauces:  All  the  great  sauces,  as 
they  are  called  in  France,  have  either  well  reduced 
stock  or  essences  for  their  foundation.  Espagnole, 
Veloute*,  Allemande,  and  Bechamel,  are  the  names 
of  the  four  sauces  known  as  1 '  les  grandes  sauces, ' ' 
though  the  actual  leading  foundation  sauces  are 
a  brown  and  a  white  sauce. 

Espagnole  and  Bechamel:  These  are  justly 
termed  the  Adam  and  Eve  of  all  their  other  prepar- 
ations, because  from  these  an  endless  variety  of 
sauces  can  be  made. 

If  we  look  into  the  above  statement  concerning 
the  four  grande  sauces  more  closely,  we  find  that 
Espagnole  is  a  brown  sauce,  whilst  the  other  three 
are  white  sauces.  This  must  strike  the  uninitiated 
as  somewhat  odd,  because  only  one  brown  sauce 
is  recognized,  whereas  in  cookery  a  brown  sauce 
is  used  at  least  three  times  as  often  as  a  white 
sauce.  It  is  furthermore  curious,  or  apparently 
so,  to  note  that  the  brown  sauce  which  the  French 
cuisine  recognizes  as  the  sauce  should  be  called 
Spanish  (Espagnole). 

The  white  sauce  has  two  varieties — the  Bechamel, 
and  Allemande  or  Veloute.  It  would,  however,  be 
much  more  distinctive  to  recognize  but  two  kinds 
of  sauces  as  foundation  or  grande  sauces,  viz.: 

The  Espagnole  (Spanish)  and  the  Bechamel, 
which  are  unquestionably  the  two  leading  sauces 
in  cookery,  and  as  such  is  the  case  they  deserve 
to  receive  special  recognition. 

Sauce  Espagnole  versus  Brown  Sauce:  There 
are  many  people  who  imagine  that  Espagnole  sauce 


12  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

is  nothing  more  than  an  ordinary  brown  sauce. 
The  French  cuisine  practically  owes  much  of  its 
advancement  in  cookery  to  Spain,  although  the 
French  have  excelled  the  Spanish  cuisine  by  a  long 
way.  Spanish  cookery  was  at  one  time  the  pioneer, 
when  no  doubt  this  sauce  was  introduced  into 
France,  and  such  being  the  case,  it  cannot  be 
wondered  at  that  the  French  cooks  have  stuck 
to  the  name  of  so  important  a  sauce,  which  they 
have  adopted  as  their  chief  brown  sauce. 

The  great  secret  about  this  brown  sauce  consists 
in  the  hammy  flavor,  which  is  blended  into  the 
sauce  in  such  a  skilful  manner,  which  makes  it 
superior  and  distinguishable  from  an  ordinary 
brown  sauce. 

Much  of  the  success  of  a  brown  sauce — a  funda- 
mental sauce — depends  upon  the  manner  in  which 
the  flour  is  blended,  or,  to  be  more  correct,  roasted. 
The  principle  of  roasting  flour  is  practically  the 
same  in  every  instance,  although  there  are  a  num- 
ber of  ways  of  introducing  the  roast  flavor  into  a 
brown  sauce.  To  illustrate  my  meaning  in  this 
respect,  let  us  take  the  roasting  of  coffee  as  an 
example,  which  will  give  us  some  idea  as  to  what 
happens  in  roasting  flour  for  a  sauce.  We  know 
that  when  coffee  is  properly  roasted  its  aromatic 
qualities  are  developed,  whereby  certain  salts  and 
volatile  oils  are  blended,  bringing  out  an  excellent 
aroma,  which  by  mere  boiling  of  the  berry  could 
never  be  attained. 

The  result  obtained  by  torref action  is  not  merely 
a  change  of  color  and  an  access  of  fragrance,  but 
also  the  development  of  qualities  which  affect  the 
human  frame,  which  exhilarate  the  nervous  sys- 
tem. The  process  of  roasting  flour  and  the  sub- 
sequent result  in  sauces  is  to  a  certain  extent  the 
same.  To  roast  the  flour  to  a  nut-brown  color 
develops  a  fragrance  of  the  most  exquisite  flavor, 
which  will  ultimately  be  incorporated  into  the 
sauce  or  sauces. 

Time  required  for  cooking:  In  cooking  this  as 
well  as  other  sauces,  which  require  a  process  of 
long  cooking,  it  should  be  remembered  that  a  sauce 
must  simmer  long  enough  to  clear  and  have  the  fat 
separated  and  come  to  the  surface,  so  that  it  can 
be  skimmed  off. 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  13 

The  introduction  of  ham,  or  lean  bacon,  this 
being  more  often  used  than  ham,  into  the  leading 
brown  sauce  is  but  one  out  of  many  other  ways  of 
incorporating  a  so-called  smoky  or  hammy  flavor, 
which  makes  the  Espagnole  so  characteristic,  and 
there  is  no  question  as  to  whether  this  addition 
really  improves  the  flavor,  for  I  can  assert  with 
every  confidence  that  the  best  French  cooks  put 
ham  with  due  discretion  into  practically  every  first- 
class  brown  meat  sauce  or  brown  meat  soup.  We 
do  not,  therefore,  need  any  further  conviction  as 
to  the  usefulness  of  ham  in  brown  sauces. 

It  is  well  worth  noting  that  although  the  addi- 
tion of  ham  is  excellent  for  brown  sauce  prepara- 
tions, the  introduction  of  anything  approaching 
the  flavor  of  ham  into  white  sauces  has  just  the 
opposite  effect,  being  entirely  opposed  to  its  char- 
acter. This  shows  at  once  that  the  nature  of  white 
sauce  is  produced  by  blending  and  ebullition  alone, 
so  as  to  keep  it  quite  free  from  any  of  the  smoky 
or  incalescent  flavors. 

Bechamel,  Veloutee  and  Other  White  Sauces: 
Sauces  of  this  class  need  not  always  be  essen- 
tially white,  for  very  often  they  are  of  a  creamy, 
yellow  or  greenish  tint;  but  the  white  sauces, 
the  foundation  sauces  proper,  are  the  result  of 
what  has  already  been  explained — viz.  a  blend- 
ing of  flour  and  butter,  perfected  by  a  certain 
amount  of  ebullition,  which  in  the  first  stage 
becomes  a  white  coulis,  or  a  veloutee,  which  is 
subsequently  enriched  with  cream,  yolks  of 
eggs,  or  butter,  in  order  to  give  it  the  required 
distinctive  character. 

Brown  Sauces:  The  brown  sauce,  on  the  other 
hand,  has  to  go  through  a  process  of  roasting  in 
the  first  instance — viz.  the  preparation  of  the 
brown  roux,  which  is  roasting  flour  and  butter, 
to  impart  the  distinctive  flavor.  This,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  boiling  and  simmering  processes  by 
which  the  various  meats,  vegetables,  and  other 
ingredients  are  prepared,  produces  a  brown  sauce. 

Plain  or  Simple  Sauces:  It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  ordinary  sauces,  prepared  on  the 
quick  system,  should  be  allowed  to  boil  at  least 
ten  minutes  from  the  time  the  liquid  is  added. 
When  a  sauce  is  cooked  less  than  ten  minutes, 


14  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

the  flour  will  not  have  had  time  to  develop  its 
full  flavor  for  sauces,  and  the  butter  only  par- 
tially separates,  which  gives  to  the  sauce  a 
greasy  appearance. 

Overcooking  of  Sauces:  It  sometimes  happens 
that  by  some  oversight  or  error  a  sauce  is 
cooked  so  long  that  it  becomes  oily.  In  this  case 
a  little  cold  stock,  cold  milk  or  water  should 
be  added,  and  if  the  sauce  is  stirred  until  it 
begins  to  boil  it  will  again  become  perfectly 
smooth,  but  it  must  not  on  any  account  be 
allowed  to  boil  any  longer.  It  must  be  removed 
from  the  fire  immediately  before  it  actually 
boils. 

Error  in  Overseasoning:  Many  a  plain  sauce 
is  spoilt  by  cooks  who  are  too  fond  of  using 
spicy  flavorings.  They  seem  to  me  to  be  unable 
to  make  a  sauce  without  adding  one  or  more 
dashes  of  bottled  sauces,  spices,  etc.,  thinking 
that  these  additions  must  necessarily  be  an  im- 
provement. This  practice,  I  need  hardly  say,  is 
a  much  mistaken  one,  for  such  additions  often 
overpower  the  essential,  natural  flavor  of  their 
plain  sauces,  by  overloading  them  with  ingre- 
dients which  are  unpalatable.  A  plain  sauce, 
as  a  rule,  needs  nothing  in  the  way  of  seasoning, 
except  salt  and  pepper,  to  bring  out  the  flavor 
and  to  stimulate  or  awaken  the  palate.  Those 
who  wish  for  piquancy  of  flavor  will  always  find 
means  to  satisfy  their  wants  from  the  cruet. 

Characteristic  of  Sauces  and  Seasoning:  No 
matter  what  the  character  of  a  sauce  may  be, 
remember  that  in  all  compound  sauces,  whether 
plain  or  rich,  the  rule  for  seasoning  and  flavor- 
ing is  the  same  in  every  case:  that  is,  the  ingre- 
dients used  for  this  purpose  should  be  so  pro- 
portioned that  no  flavor  predominates  over  the 
other,  so  that  by  a  careful  and  judicious  com- 
bination of  flavors  the  sauce  or  sauces  prepared 
will  not  fail  to  be  acceptable  to  the  palate  of 
the  most  refined  gourmet. 

Cook's  Duty  Regarding  Taste:  Furthermore, 
remember  that  it  is  a  cook's  duty  to  study  the 
likes  and  dislikes  as  to  seasoning  and  flavoring 
of  those  for  whom  she  or  he  works,  whereby 
certain  ingredients  for  every  sauce  must  neces- 


THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES  15 

sarily  be  increased  or  lessened  according  to 
taste.  If  this  is  done,  no  one  need  fail  to  be- 
come master  of  the  art  of  sauce-making,  so  far 
as  the  extraction  and  combination  of  flavors  in 
sauces  are  concerned. 

On  the  Beduction  of  Sauces:  We  reduce  or 
boil  down  sauces  to  give  them  the  necessary 
strength  and  consistency.  This  is  usually  the 
case  with  the  compounds  into  which  stocks, 
essences,  fumets,  etc.,  have  been  incorporated: 
these  are  added  for  the  express  purpose  of  re- 
duction, and  should  be  in  a  concentrated  form, 
so  as  to  lessen  as  much  as  possible  the  labor  of 
boiling  or  simmering.  All  sauces  which  need  to 
be  reduced  must  be  strained  and  freed  from 
fat;  they  must  be  put  on  a  quick  fire  at  first, 
and  must  be  stirred  with  a  wooden  spatula  or 
spoon  to  prevent  the  sauce  from  adhering  to  the 
bottom  of  the  saucepan  in  which  the  sauce  is 
put.  The  necessary  quantity  of  stock,  etc.,  re- 
quired for  its  improvement  is  next  added;  it  is 
then  allowed  to  boil  until  it  has  acquired  the 
desired  consistency:  when  this  is  effected  the 
sauce  is  passed  through  a  tammy  cloth. 

Various  Kinds  of  Sauces:  Having  explained 
the  difference  between  white  and  brown  sauces, 
and  having  given  minute  details  of  the  various 
thickenings  (liaisons),  as  well  as  other  impor- 
tant points  concerning  sauces  and  their  prepara- 
tion, I  will  now  give  a  list  of  the  various  sauces 
which  are  most  frequently  used  in  cookery. 

There  are  two  groups  of  sauces: 

I.  Hot  Sauces:     These  are  divided  into  three 
sections: 

(1)  Plain.  (2)  Savory.  (3)  Sweet. 

II.  Cold    Sauces:     These     are     divided    into 
three   sections: 

(1)  Chaud-froid.        (2)  Salad.        (3)  Sweet. 

I.   Hot  Sauces. 

(1)  PLAIN  SAUCES.— These  include: 
Melted  Butter  White  Sauce  Mustard 
Anchovy  Parsley  Caper  Sauce 

Brown  Onion  (white      Fennel 

Egg  or  brown)         Bread,  etc. 


16 


THE   BOOK  OF   SAUCES 


(2)  SAVOEY  SAUCES.—  (a) 

WHITE 

SAUCES: 

Bechamel 

Dutch  or 

Horse-radish 

Cream 

Hollandaise 

Maitre  d  'Hotel 

Oyster 

Lobster 

Pluche 

Mussel 

Normande 

Bearnaise 

Poulette 

Eavigote 

Chicken 

Fines  Herbes 

Shrimp 

Supreme 

Soubise 

Provencjale 

Cucumber 

Cardinal 

Celery 

Mousseline,  etc. 

Mornay 

Eichalotte 

Veloutee 

Allemande 

(b)  BEOWN 

SAUCES: 

Espagnole 

Italienne 

Madere 

Bordelaise 

Bretonne 

Genoise 

Curry 

Financiere 

Lyonnaise 

Chasseur 

Eobert 

Tomato 

Matelotte 

Milanaise 

Bigarade 

Mushroom 

Olive 

Perigord 

Orange 

Eeforme 

Game 

Truffle 

Poivrade 

Estragon,  etc. 

Pompadour 

Salmis 

Turtle 

Piquante 

(3)  SWEET 

SAUCES: 

Apple 

Peach 

Gooseberry 

Apricot 

Vanilla 

Sabayon 

Mousseline 

Orange 

Easpberry 

Cherry 

German 

Strawberry 

Chocolate 

Custard 

Etc. 

II.    Cold  Sauces. 


(1)  CHAUD-FEOIDS: 


White 
Fawn 
Blonde 
Horse-radish 
Fines  Herbes 

(2)  SALAD 
Mayonnaise 
Cardinal 
Moutarde 

(3)  SWEET 
Cream 

Eum 
Banana 
Custard 
Caramel 


Green 

Brown 

Eavigote 

Mint 

Pink 
SAUCES: 

Tartare 

Eavigote 

Fines  Herbes 
SAUCES: 

Vanilla 

Apricot 

Pineapple 

Liqueur 

Sabayon 


Tomate 

Verte 

Eed 

Cream 

Suedoise,  etc. 

Eemoulade 
Mousseline 
Vinaigrette,  etc. 

Easpberry 
Strawberry 
Chocolate,  etc. 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  1? 


SEASONING  AND  FLAVORING 



The  business  of  an  intelligent  cook  is  twofold: 
he  or  she  must  know  how  to  please  the  eye,  but 
above  all  the  palate  must  be  flattered  as  well, 
for  "where  pleasures  to  the  eye  and  palate 
meet,  such  work  is  done  and  the  dishes  are  com- 
plete. M  This  is  particularly  essential  in  the 
case  of  sauces  and  their  making. 

The  best  chefs  de  cuisine  regard  seasoning 
and  flavoring  ingredients  as  absolute  necessities 
to  carry  out  their  object,  because  the  success  of 
their  cooking  depends  largely  upon  their  aid. 
But  condiments  for  seasoning  and  flavoring  must 
be  used  with  skill,  and  above  all  sparingly. 

All  palates  do  not  crave  for  highly  spiced 
foods,  or  for  condiments,  yet  the  majority  of 
people  demand  that  the  food  should  be  moder- 
ately seasoned  with  some  kind  of  condiments, 
for  the  flavor  of  insipid  food  can  be  very  much 
improved  by  the  use  of  some  suitable  condiment. 

To  flavor  or  season  rightly  is  an  accomplish- 
ment of  no  mean  order.  Consider  how  much  food 
is  spoilt  through  being  over-seasoned,  and  how 
much  of  it  is  made  insipid  through  lack  of 
proper  and  sufficient  seasoning.  Almost  every- 
thing we  cook  has  a  flavor  of  its  own,  the  nat- 
ural flavor,  and  to  retain  this  becomes  often  a 
difficulty,  because  the  great  secret  lies  in  bring- 
ing out  the  natural  flavor,  rather  than  impart- 
ing a  new  one. 

All  those  who  have  been  initiated  into  the 
rudiments  of  cookery,  as  well  as  connoisseurs, 
must  know  that  the  success  of  any  dish,  whether 
plain  or  elaborate,  depends  to  a  very  large  extent 
upon  its  seasoning,  and  everyone  who  desires  to 
master  this  art  must  carefully  study  and  observe 
all  the  rules  pertaining  to  this  important  branch 
of  cookery.  Intelligence,  carefulness,  thorough, 
sound  judgment,  a  steady  hand,  and  a  keen  per- 
ception of  palate  are  qualifications  which  every 
cook  must  possess  in  order  to  prepare  food  so 
as  to  make  it  appetizing,  pleasant  to  the  taste, 


18  THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES 

and  in  every  way  perfectly  palatable.  Well 
cooked  and  well  seasoned  food  is  admittedly 
more  digestible  than  the  unpalatable. 

An  erroneous  idea  prevails  that  tf  plain  cook- 
ery" requires  no  other  flavoring  or  seasoning 
beyond  salt,  pepper,  and,  say,  Worcester  sauce 
or  ketchup.  It  can  easily  be  proved  that  there 
are  a  variety  of  inexpensive  seasonings  besides 
these  which  may  with  advantage  be  used  for 
imparting  a  better  flavor,  whereby  the  monotony 
of  plain  dishes  becomes  considerably  alleviated. 

It  is  most  difficult  to  give  any  precise  direc- 
tions for  seasoning;  experience  alone  will  teach 
a  cook.  Tastes  differ  considerably.  What  may 
be  agreeable  to  one  may  be  objectionable  or 
insipid  to  another.  It  is  the  cook's  business  to 
study  the  taste  of  those  he  or  she  serves,  and 
the  seasoning  of  the  food  must  therefore  be 
used  according  to  the  requirements  of  those  to 
whom  the  dishes  are  served. 

It  is  in  all  cases  well  to  remember  that  sea- 
sonings, whatever  they  may  consist  of,  should  be 
used  in  small  quantities  only,  as  one  can  always 
add  more  if  found  necessary,  but  it  is  impossible 
to  remove  any  if  too  much  has  been  added  in 
the  first  instance. 

The  late  Monsieur  Tide,  one  of  the  most  tal- 
ented chefs  of  the  past,  in  his  culinary  work 
says  that  "the  best  cookery  in  the  world  is 
worthless  without  seasoning. " 

We  know  that  cookery  acts  upon  food  by 
diminishing  the  firmness  of  some  articles,  and 
by  increasing  it  in  others.  We  further  know 
that  the  flavor  is  altered  as  well  as  the  aroma 
and  appearance,  whilst  seasoning  and  flavoring 
heighten  the  savoriness  of  food,  the  action  of 
which  is  increased  by  the  addition  of  aromatic, 
pungent,  and  stimulant  ingredients.  The  so- 
called  highly  seasoned  dishes  must  be  regulated 
on  a  sliding  scale  as  regards  the  seasoning  em- 
ployed, so  as  to  adapt  them  to  the  various  pal- 
ates, which,  as  before  stated,  differ  considerably, 
It  is  quite  impossible  to  specify  in  any  recipe 
the  exact  quantity  of  seasoning  materials  for 
each  dish.  Not  only  palates  but  also  stomachs 
differ  as  to  the  amount  of  salt  and  spices  which 


THE  BOOK   OF   SAUCES  19 

suits  them.  For  this  reason,  if  for  no  other,  it 
is  always  best  to  use  all  seasonings  moderately. 
The  object  of  seasoning,  providing  always  it  be 
added  in  moderate  and  reasonable  quantities,  is 
to  increase  the  digestibility  of  food,  to  flavor 
food  which  would  otherwise  be  insipid,  and  to 
render  it  at  the  same  time  more  palatable  and 
digestible.  By  seasoning  certain  food  materials, 
we  copy  to  a  certain  extent  nature,  who  renders 
fruit  wholesome  and  agreeable  to  the  taste  by 
associating  insipidness  with  acids,  by  combining 
certain  forms  of  starch  with  sugar,  as  well  as  by 
the  characteristic  instinctive  longing  with  which 
nature  animates  both  man  and  animal  for  salt 
and  for  the  flavor  and  piquancy  of  aromatic 
herbs  and  spices. 

While  a  fine  and  discriminating  taste  is  nat- 
ural to  a  few  only,  it  may  be  cultivated  in  some 
degree  by  all.  It  is  the  fortune  of  the  cook 
who  possesses  it;  if  not,  he  or  she  may,  through 
plenty  of  experience,  acquire  it  in  some  measure. 

The  most  important  articles  used  for  season- 
ing and  flavoring  are  salt,  sugar,  pepper,  spices, 
aromatic  herbs,  vinegar,  vegetables,  mustard, 
butter  and  other  fats,  oils,  etc.  The  principal 
functions  which  these  adjuncts  have  to  perform 
is,  as  explained  in  the  foregoing  pages,  to  render 
food  more  palatable,  more  appetizing,  and  more 
digestible. 

Salt  is  the  chief  and  most  important  seasoning 
used;  it  is  not  merely  a  seasoning,  but  a  neces- 
sary of  life,  for  it  removes  the  insipid  flavor 
from  all  eatables,  such  as  meat,  vegetables,  etc.; 
it  acts  as  an  appetizer,  and  promotes  digestion. 
The  average  quantity  of  salt  required  by  each 
person  being,  according  to  medical  authority, 
from  }4  to  %  an  ounce  per  day,  it  becomes  a 
necessary  adjunct  for  the  preservation  of  health. 
When  added  to  food  it  excites  the  supply  of  two 
important  agents  in  the  processes  of  digestion 
and  nutrition,  viz.,  the  gastric  juice  and  the 
constituents  of  the  bile.  Salt,  like  all  season- 
ings, must  be  used  with  judgment. 

When  added  to  boiling  water,  it  raises  the 
boiling-point  and  liberates  the  oxygen.  Salt  acts 


20  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

further  as  a  great  preserving  agent  for  meat, 
vegetables,  and  other  substances. 

Spices,  such  as  white  and  black  pepper, 
cayenne,  cloves,  nutmeg,  paprika  (Hungarian 
pepper),  coriander,  cinnamon,  mace,  etc.,  cannot 
be  considered  to  have  any  nutritive  properties. 
They  are  used  for  the  purpose  of  imparting  cer- 
tain flavors  to  improve  the  taste  of  various  food 
substances.  In  adding  the  seasoning  and  flavor- 
ing to  dishes,  it  is  of  the  greatest  importance 
for  a  cook  to  remember  that  the  exquisite  sensi- 
bility of  a  cook's  palate  can  best  be  judged  and 
admired  by  his  or  her  cooking. 

Allspice:  This  well-known  and  useful  spice  is 
the  berry  of  the  "Eugenia  Pimenta,"  a  small 
tree  growing  in  the  West  Indies.  The  fruit  is 
gathered  when  green  and  unripe,  and  put  to  dry 
in  the  sun,  when  it  turns  black.  Large  quanti- 
ties of  it  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
the  sauces  sold  in  shops.  The  berries  combine 
the  flavor  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg, 
hence  the  name  allspice.  It  is  also  called 
Pimento  or  Jamaica  pepper. 

Cloves:  Cloves  belong  to  the  order  of  myrtles. 
They  are  the  unopened  flower-buds  of  a  plant 
called  the  ' '  Caryophyllus  aromaticus, "  a  native 
of  the  Moluccas.  Owing  to  their  resemblance 
to  a  nail  they  derive  their  name  from  the 
French  word  "clou."  They  form  a  well-known 
spice,  and  are  much  used  in  cookery,  both  in 
sweet  and  savory  dishes.  To  a  stew  or  ragout, 
etc.,  an  onion  stuck  with  cloves  is  almost  indis- 
pensable. 

Nutmeg:  Used  extensively  for  various  sea- 
sonings, both  sweet  and  savory.  It  is  the  seed 
of  the  nutmeg-tree  [Myristica  moschata],  a  na- 
tive of  the  Molucca  Islands,  but  is  now  culti- 
vated in  Java,  Cayenne,  Sumatra,  and  some  of 
the  West  Indian  Islands.  The  fruit  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  husk  [arillus],  which  is  known  as 
mace.  The  nutmeg  is  pear-like  in  appearance, 
and  is  usually  grated  for  culinary  purposes. 
Nutmegs  should  never  be  used  in  large  propor- 
tions for  seasoning  because  they  are  supposed 
to  contain  narcotic  properties. 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  21 

Mace  is  the  outer  shell  or  husk  of  the  nutmeg, 
and  it  resembles  it  in  flavor.  When  good  it 
should  be  orange-yellow  in  color.  Used  whole 
or  powdered  for  both  seasoning  and  flavoring. 

Curry  is  a  condiment  and  a  spice,  but  is, 
strictly  speaking,  a  mixture  of  many  others. 
Perhaps  only  an  Indian  can  make  it  to  perfec- 
tion, many  of  its  ingredients  being  native  to 
the  country,  whose  poorest  peasantry  look  upon 
curry  as  a  daily  necessity. 

Mustard:  There  are  two  varieties  of  mustard 
seeds,  "Sinapis  nigra,"  the  black,  and  "Sinapis 
alba,"  the  white.  These  are  ground  and  mixed. 
The  pungency  of  mustard  is  more  fully  devel- 
oped when  moistened  with  water.  It  is  supposed 
to  give  energy  to  the  digestive  organs,  and  to 
promote  appetite  if  taken  in  small  quantities. 
It  is  used  as  a  table  condiment,  and  for  sauces, 
dressings,  etc. 

Cinnamon:  This  substance  comes  from  the 
bark  of  a  species  of  laurel,  "Laurus  Cinna- 
momum,"  and  is  about  the  oldest  known  spice 
in  the  world.  The  tree  is  chiefly  cultivated  in 
Ceylon,  but  cinnamon  also  comes  from  Madras, 
Java,  and  Bombay.  The  three-year-old  branches 
are  stripped  of  the  outer  bark,  the  inner  is 
loosened  and  dried,  which  makes  it  shrivel  up, 
and  assume  the  quill  form  in  which  it  is  im- 
ported. The  best  cinnamon  should  not  be  too 
dark  in  color,  and  should  be  hardly  thicker  than 
paper.  It  has  a  fragrant  odor,  and  its  taste  is 
pleasant  and  highly  aromatic.  Besides  being 
used  extensively  for  culinary  purposes,  cinna- 
mon is  much  employed  medicinally  as  a  powerful 
stimulant. 

Turmeric:  Turmeric  [Curcuma  longa]  belongs 
to  the  ginger  family,  and  is  extensively  culti- 
vated in  the  East  Indies  as  a  condiment.  The 
tubers  are  dried  and  then  ground  to  a  fine 
powder.  It  enters  largely  into  the  composition 
of  curry  powder,  and  gives  it  the  peculiar  odor 
and  the  bright  yellow  color  which  that  compound 
possesses. 

Coriander:  This  is  the  fruit  or  so-called  seeds 
of  a  plant  of  Eastern  origin  [Coriandrum  sati- 


22  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

vum].  Coriander  seeds  are  used  by  the  confec- 
tioner and  distiller,  and  in  the  manufacture  of 
curry  powder.  The  leaves  have  also  been  used 
in  soups  and  salads.  They  are  also  used  for 
flavoring  jellies,  etc. 

Aromatic  Spice  is  a  mixture  of  various  flavors, 
consisting  of  pepper,  salt,  cinnamon,  mace,  pow- 
dered bayleaf,  thyme,  marjoram,  nutmeg,  and 
cayenne.  These  are  used  principally  for  braised 
meats,  sautes,  ragouts,  galantines,  vol-au-vents, 
game  pies,  and  numerous  other  preparations. 

Pepper:  Pepper  is  produced  from  the  seed  or 
berries  of  the  plant  or  shrub  known  by  the 
name  of  "Piper  nigrum, "  which  grows  in  Mal- 
abar and  various  parts  of  India.  The  berry  has 
a  dark  brown  or  black  cuticle.  "Black  pepper " 
consists  of  the  dried  berries  ground  whole, 
whilst  "white  pepper"  is  produced  from  the 
same  berries,  after  their  dark  husks  have  been 
removed,  and  ground  finely.  White  pepper  is 
milder  than  black  pepper. 

Pepper  was  known  to  the  ancient  Greeks,  and 
so  highly  was  it  thought  of,  that  when  Alaric 
besieged  Kome  in  408  A.  D.,  he  included  in  the 
ransom  3,000  pounds  of  pepper. 

As  a  condiment,  pepper  is  valuable  in  heighten- 
ing the  flavor  and  giving  piquancy  to  savory 
dishes,  and  it  behooves  a  cook  to  know  just 
what  pepper  should  be  used  for  each  dish,  for 
by  the  use  or  abuse  of  this  sort  of  seasoning  it 
is  quite  possible  to  make  or  mar  the  happiness 
of  a  dinner. 

Long  Pepper  [Piper  longum]  is  a  spice  similar 
in  taste  and  smell  to  the  ordinary  pepper  in  com- 
mon use.  It  is  not  so  pungent;  it  is  mostly 
used  in  making  curry  powder  and  in  pickles. 
The  plant  on  which  it  grows  is  a  native  of  East 
India. 

Mignonette  Pepper:  This  is  ordinary  white 
pepper  with  the  husks  removed,  and  crushed 
finely  but  not  ground. 

Cayenne  Pepper  consists  of  a  species  of  the 
dried  fruit  of  capsicums,  which  is  red  in  color 
and  grows  principally  in  Cayenne.  The  pods  are 
also  imported  under  the  name  of  "  chillies. "  It 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  23 

has  a  powerful  pungent  flavor,  and  is  very  useful 
for  flavoring  purposes.  It  also  enters  into  the 
composition  of  curry  powder. 

The  plant  has  been  acclimatized  in  Europe,  and 
its  pods  are  used  for  pickling,  and  sometimes  for 
flavoring  sauces  and  stews. 

Krona  Pepper  is  a  bright  red  pepper  made 
from  the  Hungarian  paprika,  capsicum  pod,  etc. 
It  is  much  milder  than  cayenne,  and  not  in  the 
least  pungent.  It  forms  one  of  the  most  palata- 
ble seasonings  for  the  cuisine  and  table. 

A  Pinch  of  Salt  or  Pepper:  This  expression 
is  much  used  in  cookery;  it  is  therefore  neces- 
sary, in  order  to  convey  a  notion  of  the  accurate 
quantities  of  a  pinch,  to  state  that  a  pinch  of 
salt  or  pepper  should  be  %  of  an  ounce,  and  a 
small  pinch  (mostly  applied  to  cayenne)  -^  of 
an  ounce  in  weight.  It  would,  however,  be  diffi- 
cult and  impracticable  to  make  use  of  the  scales 
every  time  a  pinch  of  salt  or  pepper  is  required. 
The  best  plan  is  to  ascertain  the  capacity  of 
one 's  fingers  by  weighing  the  quantity  they  hold, 
and  then  getting  accustomed  to  the  exact  quan- 
tity required  for  seasoning. 

In  the  matter  of  spices,  as  well  as  of  herbs 
and  soup  vegetables,  it  is  best  to  avoid  continu- 
ally referring  to  the  scales,  to  accustom  oneself 
as  much  as  possible  to  be  able  to  tell  by  sight  the 
weight  of  the  needful  quantity  of  ingredients 
required. 

Aromatic  Herbs  and  Plants:  The  following 
are  the  names  of  herbs  and  plants  mostly  used 
in  the  kitchen:  Parsley,  bay -leaves,  thyme, 
marjoram,  sage,  tarragon,  chervil,  chives,  onions, 
shallots,  garlic,  etc.  A  number  of  these  are  used 
in  a  dry  state,  but  either  dry  or  fresh  they  are 
used  in  a  large  variety  of  preparations. 

The  Bouquet  Garni  is  the  mainstay  of  the 
French  cuisine,  and  well  it  may  be;  it  is  more 
delicate  and  subtle  than  spices  or  dried  condi- 
ments are  apt  to  be.  Usually  the  bouquet  garni 
is  composed  of  sprigs  of  chervil,  chives,  thyme, 
bay-leaves,  tarragon,  and  parsley. 

Parsley  possesses  a  wonderful  property  of  ab- 
sorbing or  masking  the  taste  of  stronger  flavor- 


24  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

ing  ingredients,  so  much  so  that  an  overdose  of 
this  herb  is  likely  to  overpower  the  more  deli- 
cate aromas  of  seasonings.  There  is  no  herb 
which  plays  such  an  important  part  in  cookery 
as  parsley.  Not  only  does  it  give  the  finishing 
touch  to  many  sauces  and  stews,  but  it  is  the 
favorite  for  garnishing  dishes.  The  curled  leaf 
parsley  is  the  best  and  most  often  used  both  for 
flavor  and  appearance.  Parsley  is  said  to  be  a 
native  of  Sardinia,  but  is  largely  cultivated  in 
every  country  in  Europe.  Powdered  parsley  is 
excellent  for  a  number  of  dishes  for  imparting 
a  most  delicate  flavor.  The  process  is  simple. 
Steep  some  fresh  parsley  in  boiling  water  for  a 
few  seconds;  then  drain  and  put  it  in  a  hot 
oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  dry.  Put  through  a 
sieve  and  use  as  required. 

Tarragon  and  Chervil:  Tarragon  belongs  to 
the  same  family  as  wormwood,  and  is  called  by 
botanists  "  Artemisia  Dracunculus. "  It  is  sup- 
posed to  be  a  native  of  Siberia.  The  leaves  of 
chervil  possess  a  peculiar  flavor,  which  is  much 
appreciated  by  many.  Of  all  the  pot-herbs, 
these  two  are  the  most  odoriferous,  and  are  much 
used  in  French  cookery  in  entrees  and  sauces, 
and  sometimes  soups.  In  salads,  salad  sauces, 
chaud-froid,  etc.,  they  also  form  an  important 
part.  Tarragon-leaves  are  also  used  for  flavoring 
vinegar,  which  is  very  largely  used  in  all  kitch- 
ens and  dining-rooms. 

Thyme:  Thyme  belongs  to  the  same  family  as 
mint,  the  ' '  Labiatae. ' y  The  leaves  of  this  plant 
[Thymus  vulgaris]  are  used  fresh  or  dry  for 
stuffing,  soups,  etc.  It  possesses  a  highly  aro- 
matic flavor,  and  should  be  used  sparingly.  The 
lemon  thyme  [Thymus  citriodorus]  is  a  smaller 
kind,  and  has  a  strong  perfume  like  the  rind  of 
lemons,  which  is  very  agreeable. 

Burnet:  The  use  of  this  perennial  plant  has 
gone  somewhat  out  of  fashion.  In  former  timefl 
it  made  one  of  the  principal  ingredients  in 
claret  cup,  its  leaves,  when  slightly  bruised, 
smelling  like  cucumber.  Its  modern  use  is  con- 
fined to  salads,  and  combined  with  tarragon, 
chives,  and  chervil,  burnet  forms  the  French 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  25 

"ravigote. "  Although  called  "  pimprenelle  "  in 
French,  it  must  not  be  confused  with  the  Eng- 
lish pimpernel,  which  is  poisonous. 

Capsicums:  Of  these  there  are  several  kinds 
which  are  cultivated  in  the  East  and  West  Indies 
and  in  America.  They  yield  a  fruit  which  is 
pungent  and  stimulating,  and  in  Mexico  the  pods 
are  called  chillies;  these  are  used  to  make  a 
hot  pickle  and  chilli  vinegar.  It  is  the  powder 
of  the  seeds  and  pods  dried  that  constitutes 
cayenne  pepper.  Capsicums  owe  their  power  to 
an  active  principle  called  capsicin,  and  are  con- 
sidered to  be  very  wholesome. 

Savory:  Of  this  flavoring  herb  there  are  two 
varieties,  the  summer  savory  [Satureja  hor- 
tensis]  and  the  winter  savory  [Satureja  mont- 
ana].  It  was  introduced  into  England  in  the 
seventeenth  century.  Both  varieties  are  exten- 
sively used  for  flavoring  and  seasoning  purposes. 

Marjoram:  There  are  four  kinds  of  marjoram, 
but  the  sweet  or  knotted  marjoram  [Origanum 
Majorana],  a  native  of  Portugal,  and  introduced 
into  this  country  in  the  sixteenth  century,  is  the 
kind  generally  used  in  our  kitchens.  It  imparts 
a  delicious  flavor  to  soups,  sauces,  stews,  etc.  In 
July  the  leaves  are  dried  and  kept  for  winter 
use. 

Mint:  Mint  belongs  to  a  family  of  plants 
called  "Labiatae".  The  spearmint  [Mentha 
viridis]  cultivated  in  our  gardens  has  the  most 
agreeable  flavor  of  the  various  kinds  of  mint, 
and  is  the  one  most  generally  used  in  cookery. 
It  possesses  the  property  of  correcting  flatu- 
lency, hence  the  custom  of  using  it  in  pea-soup 
and  with  new  potatoes,  etc. 

Bay-leaves:  The  leaves  of  the  common  laurel 
[Prunus  Laurocerasus]  are  employed  for  culinary 
purposes  to  give  a  kernel-like  flavor  to  stocks, 
mirepoix,  sauces,  custards,  puddings,  blanc- 
manges, and  the  milk  and  water  with  which 
cakes  are  mixed.  They  are  generally  dried  for 
use. 

Basil:  This  is  a  favorite  herb  with  the 
French  cooks;  it  has  a  scent  very  like  that  of 
cloves.  Basil  for  winter  use  can  be  obtained 


26  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

in  bottles,  and  it  is  the  best  herb  for  clear  mock- 
turtle  and  other  clear  soups  made  of  shell-fish. 
It  is  also  used  for  flavoring  vinegar.  The  mid- 
dle of  August  is  the  best  time  for  making  basil 
vinegar. 

Onions:  The  name  onion  is  given  to  all  plants 
of  the  onion  tribe,  in  which  we  include  leek, 
garlic  and  shallot  (echalote).  The  onion  is,  un- 
doubtedly, next  to  salt,  the  most  valuable  of 
all  flavoring  substances  used  in  cookery. 

When  onions,  shallots  or  garlic  are  used,  they 
should  always  be  well  blended  with  other  flavors, 
so  that  the  peculiar  and  often  objectionable  taste 
of  these  cannot  be  detected. 

The  smell  of  the  onion,  however,  is  objection- 
able to  many,  whilst  others  will  have  it  that  the 
flavor  of  onion  disagrees  with  them.  The  question, 
therefore  arises,  how  can  this  be  overcome?  The 
answer  is  very  simple.  By  thorough  cooking 
and  manipulation  the  presence  of  onion  in  a 
stew,  soup  or  sauce  may  be  disguised,  retaining 
at  the  same  time  the  essential  essence  of  this 
valuable  flavoring  root.  By  cunningly  con- 
cealing the  flavor  with  others  in  a  sauce,  stew 
or  soup,  it  will  yield  enjoyment  even  to  those 
who  would  carefully  avoid  it  if  they  knew  it 
was  there.  Whenever  onion  is  used  as  a  condi- 
ment or  seasoning,  and  the  article  is  properly 
treated  as  a  flavoring  substance  should  be,  much 
of  the  objection  of  an  unpleasant  smell  is  re- 
moved. Too  much  attention  cannot  be  bestowed 
upon  its  preparation. 

Garlic:  This  is  one  of  the  alliaceous  plants. 
It  consists  of  a  group  of  several  bulbs  called 
" cloves/'  all  enclosed  in  one  membranous  skin. 
When  used  judiciously  and  sparingly,  garlic  is 
a  most  excellent  condiment;  but  with  the  Eng- 
lish taste  it  seldom  finds  favor,  although  many 
without  knowing  it  partake  of  dishes  where  it 
is  cunningly  concealed.  Eubbing  the  dish  once 
with  a  clove  of  garlic  cut  in  half  imparts  quite 
sufficient  flavor;  but  in  Italy  and  other  coun- 
tries it  is  used  on  a  larger  scale — in  fact,  it 
enters  into  the  composition  of  nearly  every  dish. 
Garlic  is  considered  to  be  very  wholesome,  and 
to  act  as  a  slight  stimulant  and  tonic. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  27 

Shallot:  This  bulbous  root  resembles  garlic, 
and  belongs  to  the  same  genus.  It  is  a  native  of 
Palestine,  and  was  introduced  into  England  by 
the  Crusaders.  The  place  in  Palestine  where 
it  was  first  found  was  Ascalon:  hence  its  botan- 
ical name,  "Allium  ascalonicum. ' '  The  shallot 
is  extremely  useful  in  cookery,  especially  for 
flavoring  sauces,  vinegar,  etc.  It  is  more  pun- 
gent than  garlic,  but  of  more  delicate  flavor,  and 
consequently  more  popular  than  the  former. 

Carrots  and  Turnips:  Next  to  the  onion,  the 
carrot  and  turnip  are  considered  the  most  im- 
portant flavoring  vegetables  for  soups  and  sauces. 
Carrots  were  known  in  the  time  of  Elizabeth, 
and  in  the  reign  of  James  I.  they  were  looked 
upon  as  most  uncommon  and  as  a  luxury,  so 
much  so  that  ladies  wore  them  as  a  decoration 
in  place  of  feathers  upon  their  hats  and  sleeves. 
Besides  their  use  for  flavoring,  carrots  and  tur- 
nips are  largely  used  for  garnishing  certain 
dishes,  such  as  ragouts,  boiled  meats,  etc.  They 
are  also  served  as  vegetables  by  themselves,  also 
as  purees  for  soups,  etc.  It  will  thus  be  seen 
that  the  humble  onion,  carrot  and  turnip  are 
most  important  in  the  preparation  of  many 
dishes;  and  in  addition  to  these  there  is  the  bou- 
quet garni,  the  parsley  root,  so-called  pot-herbs, 
and  numerous  others,  each  of  which  has  its  special 
value,  the  characteristic  of  which  every  cook 
should  be  fully  acquainted  with.  But,  let  me 
repeat,  strongly  flavored  herbs,  as  well  as  so- 
called  pot  or  soup  vegetables,  should  always  be 
used  with  moderation  and  judgment. 

Vinegar:  Vinegar  is  derived  from  a  variety 
of  sources.  The  best  vinegar  is  the  French  vin- 
aigre  d 'Orleans.  It  is  made  from  white  wine; 
but  common  vinegar  is  mostly  prepared  from 
malt  in  this  country.  The  uses  to  which  vin- 
egar is  applied  in  cookery  are  very  numerous;  it 
forms  the  foundation  of  many  sauces,  and  if 
taken  with  food  in  small  quantity  it  is  said  to 
assist  digestion.  If  taken,  however,  in  excess, 
it  is  highly  injurious.  Owing  to  its  antiseptic 
and  agreeable  flavor,  it  is  largely  used  for  pre- 
serving vegetable  substances  known  under  the 


28  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

name  of  "  pickles. "  It  also  has  the  faculty  of 
softening  the  fibres  of  meat  and  making  them 
tender. 

Sugar  is  largely  used  for  fruits  of  all  kinds,  and 
farinaceous  foods;  besides  seasoning  tasteless 
things,  sugar  also  affords  considerable  nutriment. 
The  value  of  sugar  as  a  condiment  is  not  always 
sufficiently  realized.  It  renders  watery  and  insipid 
vegetables  more  digestible,  and  in  unsuspected 
quantities  it  softens  and  heightens  the  flavor 
of  sauces  and  ragouts.  If  mingled  with  other- 
wise insipid  food  articles,  it  stimulates  the 
stomach  to  a  slight  degree,  and  hastens  the  action 
of  the  digestive  organs.  Sugar  is  also  found  use- 
ful in  rendering  watery  vegetables,  such  as  peas, 
cucumbers,  pumpkins,  spinach,  cooked  endive,  etc., 
more  digestible,  and  in  the  same  manner  assists 
digestion  of  starchy  matters  which  are  used  for 
soups,  sauces,  gruel,  etc. 

Lemons:  Lemons  play  an  important  part  in 
sauce  and  other  cookery.  The  rind,  juice,  and 
essential  oil  all  contain  valuable  properties.  The 
rind  or  peel  is  used  for  flavoring  a  variety  of 
dishes.  As  a  rule  the  rind  is  grated,  but  the 
best  way  to  obtain  the  largest  amount  of  the 
essence  from  the  lemon  is  to  pare  the  rind  with 
a  very  sharp  knife  as  thinly  as  possible,  with- 
out encroaching  on  the  white  part  of  the  rind, 
thus  cutting  right  through  the  many  cells  con- 
taining the  essence.  Some  cooks  obtain  the  zest 
by  rubbing  the  lemon  with  lumps  of  sugar.  It 
is  from  the  rind  that  the  essential  oil  of  lemon 
is  obtained,  which  is  a  more  reliable  substitute 
than  fresh  lemon  peel.  The  rind  preserved  with 
sugar  forms  the  well-known  candied  peel. 

Vanilla:  Vanilla  was  first  discovered  by  the 
Spaniards.  It  is  the  fruit  of  a  parasitical  plant 
— an  orchid — and  the  best  is  found  in  Mexico. 
It  has  a  delicious  fragrance,  and  is  now  largely 
used  for  flavoring  puddings,  cakes,  custards, 
liqueurs,  chocolate,  etc.  For  flavoring  purposes  it 
is  better  to  use  the  vanilla  pods  or  vanilla  sugar 
than  the  essence  of  vanilla,  the  odor  of  which 
quickly  escapes. 

Ginger:      Ginger  is  the  tuber  of  a  perennial 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  29 

plant  called  "Zingiber  officinale,"  growing 
chiefly  in  the  West  Indies.  It  is  the  most  gen- 
erally used  of  all  spices,  and  is  very  agreeable 
and  wholesome.  There  are  two  kinds  of  ginger 
— the  white  and  the  black.  The  former  is  con- 
sidered the  best,  and  is  prepared  by  washing 
and  scalding  the  tubers,  and  then  scraping  them 
and  drying  them  in  the  sun;  in  black  ginger  the 
scraping  process  is  omitted,  it  being  merely 
scalded  before  being  dried.  Ginger  is  much  used 
in  culinary  operations,  especially  by  confection- 
ers, and  it  also  finds  its  way  into  sauces,  beer, 
spiced  wines  and  other  beverages. 


HINTS  ON  STOCK  MAKING. 


Use  only  fresh  ingredients  such  as  meat,  vege- 
tables, etc.,  in  proper  proportion. 

Boil  up  the  stock  daily  and  keep  it  in  earthen- 
ware pans,  not  in  metal  stewpans  or  pots. 

Remove  the  fat  as  soon  as  it  congeals  on  the 
surface  of  a  stock. 

The  removal  of  fat  is  most  essential  to  all 
finished  stocks  and  finished  sauces  alike.  Sauces, 
no  matter  what  kind,  should  never  be  greasy.  It 
is  strongly  advisable  that  stock  for  sauces  should 
be  prepared  the  day  before  it  is  required. 

If  this  advice  be  followed  a  great  deal  of  labor 
may  be  saved,  and  better  results  will  be  ob- 
tained. Stock  loses  nothing  if  kept  for  two  days, 
provided  it  be  put  away  in  clean  vessels  (earthen- 
ware pans). 

Stock  for  Sauces:  A  great  many  of  the  recipes 
for  sauces  direct  the  use  of  stock  because  by  its 
use  they  are  made  much  richer  and  more  nourish- 
ing than  when  water  is  used. 

Stock  is  the  liquor  in  which  fresh  meat,  bones, 
and  vegetables  have  been  boiled  long  enough 
to  extract  the  goodness  therefrom. 

To  make  a  useful  stock,  cut  up  the  meat  or 
meat  trimmings  and  chop  the  bones;  put  them 
in  a  stock-pot  or  large  stewpan  and  fill  up  with 
cold  water,  allowing  a  quart  to  each  pound  of 
meat  and  bones;  add  a  little  salt,  and  allow  it  to 


30  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

come  to  the  boil  slowly.  Then  remove  the  scum, 
and  add  stock  vegetables,  such  as  carrot,  turnip, 
onion,  celery  leaves,  and  parsley  root  if  handy,  all 
of  which  must  have  been  previously  prepared, 
cleaned  and  washed.  Cook,  i.  e.,  simmer,  gently 
for  about  three  or  four  hours,  then  strain  for 
use,  but  be  sure  that  every  particle  of  fat  is  re- 
moved. Almost  any  kind  of  meat  (cooked  or 
raw),  bones,  and  gravy  from  roast  meat  may  be 
used  for  stock  making  so  long  as  they  are  fresh 
and  sweet. 

Preparations  made  from  Stocks  are  summarized 
as  follows:  First  stock  (bouillon  or  broth). 
Second  or  general  stock  (remouillage) ;  this  is  a 
refill  of  the  first  stock.  Essences.  Half-glaze 
(demi-gla^e)  a  reduction  of  first  or  second 
stock;  and  lastly,  glaze. 

Fish  Stock:  This  can  be  made  of  almost  any 
kind  of  fish,  but  oily  fish  should  be  avoided. 
Fish  broth,  all  know,  is  particularly  nourishing, 
light  and  digestible.  Thick-skinned  fish  always 
make  the  best  broth. 

The  following  is  an  excellent  stock: 

Take  2  Ibs.  fish  and  fish  bones,  set  it  in  a  pot 
with  two  quarts  of  water,  an  onion  stuck  with 
two  cloves,  a  few  peppercorns,  mace,  and  a  bou- 
quet. Skim  as  it  comes  to  a  boil,  and  allow  it 
to  reduce  to  about  half  its  quantity  by  very  slow 
simmering.  A  little  white  wine  or  vinegar  is 
often  put  with  this  stock.  Wine  gives  a  specially 
nice  flavor  to  fish  broth.  Salt  must  be  added  at 
the  last  moment. 


AUXILIARY  RECIPES  FOR  SAUCES. 


Bouquet  garni:  This  item  is  used  in  several 
of  the  sauce  recipes;  it  is  often  called  a  bunch 
of  herbs,  or  a  fagot  of  sweet  herbs,  and  is  much 
used  in  all  kinds  of  meat  cookery  where  savory 
flavor  is  desired.  Many  people  praise  the  flavor 
of  French  soups  and  sauces,  the  delicious  aro- 
matic flavor  of  which  is  generally  due  to  the  use 
of  a  bouquet  of  herbs  or  a  bouquet  garni,  which 
enters  largely  into  the  composition  of  many  of 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  31 

the  French  preparations,  soups,  ragouts  and 
sauces.  To  make  a  bouquet  garni,  lay  upon  the 
left  hand  a  few  branches  of  fresh  parsley  well 
washed,  and  place  upon  this  a  sprig  of  thyme, 
a  sprig  of  marjoram,  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  basil, 
a  celery  leaf  and  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon 
stick,  also  a  clove  of  garlic  if  liked,  together 
with  a  small  blade  of  mace  and  a  pepper  pod 
(long  pepper).  Fold  the  parsley  round  the  other 
herbs,  etc.,  and  tie  with  a  string  into  a  neat  little 
bunch  (bouquet)  and  use  as  directed.  Excessive 
use  of  strong-smelling  herbs  or  spices  must  in 
all  cases  be  avoided. 

Meat  Glaze  (Glace  de  Viande):  Put  8  quarts 
of  good  stock,  white  or  brown,  into  a  stewpan, 
boil  up,  skim  well,  and  reduce  on  a  moderate 
fire  from  S1/^  to  4  hours.  It  will  make  barely  half 
a  pint  when  done.  Put  into  a  jar  whilst  hot, 
cover  and  keep  in  a  dry  place,  and  use  as  required. 
If  well  made  it  will  keep  for  a  long  time. 

Duxelle  Puree  (Eequired:  2  oz.  butter,  2  oz. 
finely  chopped  cooked  ham,  6  mushrooms,  3  shal- 
lots, 1  clove  garlic,  1  truffle,  1  glass  of  white 
wine  stock,  bay-leaf,  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  alle- 
mande  sauce). 

Chop  the  mushrooms,  shallots,  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley,  garlic,  and  the  truffle.  Melt  the  butter 
in  a  stewpan,  add  the  ham  and  the  above-named 
ingredients,  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
moisten  with  a  glass  of  white  wine  and  a  little 
stock,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg  and  a 
little  powdered  bay -leaf  j  when  well  reduced  stir 
in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  allemande  sauce,  boil 
again,  and  serve  as  required. 

Fumet  of  Game  (Fumet  de  Gibier) :  Carcass  of 
game,  1  small  carrot,  %  onion,  1  bay -leaf,  1  sprig 
of  thyme,  2  oz.  raw  ham,  1  oz.  lard  or  butter,  1 
glass  sherry,  1  quart  stock. 

Chop  up  the  carcass,  wash,  peel  and  slice  the 
carrot,  peel  and  slice  the  onion.  Put  the  butter 
or  lard  in  a  stewpan,  when  hot  add  the  carcass 
and  ham  cut  into  small  pieces,  fry  a  few  minutes, 
then  add  the  vegetables  and  herbs.  Fry  again, 
moisten  with  the  wine,  cover,  and  steam  a  few 
minutes,  add  the  stock  and  cook  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Skim,  strain,  and  use  as  directed. 


32  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Chicken  Essence  (Essence  de  Volatile) :  Ee- 
duce  1  quart  of  chicken  stock  or  consomme  over 
a  slow  fire  to  about  half  a  pint.  Skim,  strain 
into  a  white  pot,  and  use  as  required. 

Meat  Juice:  (This  is  sometimes  used  to  en- 
rich certain  sauces.)  To  extract  the  juice  from 
meat,  a  special  press  is  required.  The  meat  in- 
tended for  this  purpose  must  be  very  underdone. 

Venison  and  ducks,  beef  fillets  and  carcasses, 
are  frequently  treated  in  this  way. 

Eaw,  lean  beef  when  required  for  raw  beef 
juice  should  be  well  batted,  freed  from  skin  and 
fat,  and  cut  into  strips  before  being  put  into 
the  press. 

Chopped  Parsely  (Persil  hache"):  Wash  some 
parsley,  trim  off  some  of  the  stalks  if  coarse, 
chop  as  finely  as  possible,  place  it  in  the  corner 
of  a  clean  cloth,  fold  the  end  of  the  cloth,  and 
hold  tightly  under  the  water-tap  or  rinse  in  a 
basin  of  cold  water,  squeeze  out  all  the  water, 
and  put  the  parsley  on  a  plate  till  wanted. 

To  Chop  an  Onion:  Peel  the  onion,  cut  it  in 
two  lengthways,  leaving  the  stalk  ends.  Com- 
mence to  slice  each  half  without  detaching  the 
slices  from  the  stalk.  Keep  firmly  together,  and 
cut  through  several  times  crossways;  then  cut 
down  horizontally  into  fine  squares,  until  you 
come  to  the  stalk.  This  is  the  quickest  way  to 
mince  an  onion,  but  it  requires  practice.  The 
other  way  is  to  peel  and  chop  in  the  ordinary 
manner.  When  fine  enough,  wash  in  cold  water, 
drain  on  a  cloth,  and  use  as  required. 

To  Chop  Mushrooms:  If  freshly  gathered  mush- 
rooms are  used,  peel  off  the  skins,  trim  the  stalks, 
and  wash  in  cold  water;  then  chop  as  required 
and  use  immediately. 

Preserved  mushrooms  are  well  drained,  and 
then  chopped  as  required. 

Liaisons  in  general  (for  thickening  of  sauces) : 
There  are  a  number  of  processes  of  thickening 
soups  and  sauces,  and  these  are  called  ' '  liaisons, ' ' 
in  a  culinary  sense. 

Liaison  may  be  composed  of  flour  (fecule, 
arrowroot,  cornflour,  creme-de-riz,  etc.  ),  diluted 
in  either  milk,  cream,  stock  or  water,  according 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  33 

to  the  nature  of  the  soup  or  sauce  for  which  it  is 
re/quired.  A  liaison  should  always  be  strained 
before  it  is  mixed  with  the  liquid  which  requires 
thickening,  and  the  preparation  be  well  stirred 
whilst  the  latter  is  added. 

The  liaison  of  egg  is  frequently  used  for  white 
purees,  blanquettes,  fricassees  and  white  sauces. 

Only  the  yolks  of  eggs  should  be  used,  mixed 
with  a  small  quantity  of  cream,  and  well  beaten. 

Such  liaison  should  only  be  added  to  the  prep- 
aration for  which  it  is  required  when  it  is 
thoroughly  cooked;  part  of  the  soup  or  sauce 
is  poured  on  to  the  liaison,  stirred  and  then 
all  mixed  well  together. 

When  once  the  liaison  of  egg  is  added,  the 
preparation  must  on  no  account  be  allowed  to 
boil,  but  only  just  get  thoroughly  heated,  so 
as  to  form  the  liaison,  thus  preventing  the  eggs 
from  curdling. 

How  to  Tammy  Sauces:  Some  of  the  more 
delicate  compound  sauces  are  frequently  strained 
through  a  tammy  cloth,  so  as  to  render  them  as 
smooth  or  creamlike  as  possible.  To  effect  this 
process  two  persons  are  needed  who  take  hold 
of  the  tammy  cloth  on  both  ends;  the  liquid  or 
puree  to  be  passed  is  then  poured  in  the  cloth, 
each  holds  a  wooden  spoon  with  the  right  hand 
and  the  end  of  the  cloth  with  the  left  hand,  and 
both  spoons  are  pressed  backward  and  forward, 
in  regular  motion,  till  the  bulk  of  the  liquid  has 
passed  through. 

Liquid  Caramel:  (for  coloring  sauces.)  Put 
a  pound  of  loaf,  castor  or  moist  sugar  into  a 
copper  stewpan  or  sugar -boiler.  Add  about  half 
a  gill  of  water,  and  let  it  dissolve  slowly,  then 
stir  over  a  slow  fire  and  cook  until  a  dark  brown 
color;  when  a  whitish  smoke  appears  it  is  a 
sign  that  the  sugar  is  done.  Eemove  it  from 
the  fire,  pour  on  about  a  pint  of  boiling  water, 
allow  this  to  boil  up  whilst  stirring,  and  cook  till 
it  has  the  appearance  of  a  syrup;  when  cool  put 
it  in  a  corked  bottle  and  use  as  required. 

Caramel  should  be  used  with  discretion.  Good 
cooks  rarely  use  it,  for  it  is  apt  to  impart  a 
bitter  taste  if  used  too  freely.  It  is  principally 
used  for  coloring,  gravies  and  sauces. 


34  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Aspic  or  Savory  Jelly:  (used  for  certain  Cold 
sauces  for  chaud  froids,  etc):  Eequired:  1  quart 
clear  stock  or  water,  2^  oz.  gelatine,  the  juice 
of  1  lemon  and  its  rind,  %  gill  sherry,  %  gill  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  %  gill  French  wine  or  Orleans  vine- 
gar, 1  small  bunch  of  herbs,  (bouquet  garni),  1 
small  onion  sliced,  1  bay-leaf,  10  peppercorns, 
10  allspice,  1  blade  of  mace,  a  few  celery  leaves, 
%  small  carrot,  sliced,  %  teaspoonful  salt,  the 
whites  and  shells  of  2  eggs. 

See  that  all  the  ingredients  are  ready  and 
the  vegetables  clean.  Whisk  up  lightly  the 
whites  of  eggs  with  the  shells,  and  put  them, 
together  with  the  remainder  of  the  above-named 
ingredients,  into  a  well-tinned  stewpan,  stir  with 
a  whisk  over  the  fire,  and  bring  it  thus  slowly 
to  boil.  Eemove  the  whisk  and  draw  the  stew- 
pan  away  from  the  fire,  and  allow  it  to  simmer 
gently  on  the  side  of  the  stove  for  about  twenty 
minutes.  Strain  through  a  clean  cloth  previously 
steeped  in  boiling  water  and  tied  over  a  soup 
stand  or  the  legs  of  a  stool  upside  down;  or 
pass  it  through  a  warm  jelly-bag;  if  not  clear 
at  first,  pass  it  through  a  second  or  third  time. 
The  aspic  is  then  ready  for  use.  This  aspic  is 
suitable  for  borders  or  decorative  purposes;  if 
required  for  other  purposes,  2  ounces  of  gela- 
tine will  be  found  sufficient. 


SAVOEY  OE  COMPOUND  SAUCES 


Used  for  Fish,  Meat,  Poultry,  Game  and  Certain 
Vegetables. 

Admiral  Sauce  (Sauce  a  rAmiral):  To  one 
pint  of  rich  white  sauce  (veloute  or  allemande) 
add  1  dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped  capers,  1 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  of  chopped 
lemon  rind,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essense.  Eeheat  and 
serve  hot. 

Aigre-Douce  Sauce:  %  pint  poivrade  sauce,  1 
tablespoonful  red-currant  jelly,  2  tablespoonfuls 
cream. 

To  the  poivrade  sauce  add  the  red-currant  jelly, 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  35 

boil  up  and  skim,  then  stir  in  the  cream,  reheat 
without  boiling  again,  season  to  taste  and  use  as 
required.  This  sauce  is  especially  suitable  for 
roast  game,  etc. 

Albany  Sauce:  Peel  thinly  one  small  cucum- 
ber, cut  it  into  small  pieces,  cook  till  tender  in 
salted  water,  then  drain,  and  rub  through  a  fine 
sieve.  When  cold  stir  in  a  puree  made  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  a  tablespoonful 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  a  dessertspoonful  of  chut- 
ney, a  dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped  gherkins, 
half  a  pint  of  mayonnaise,  half  a  gill  of  aspic 
jelly,  half  a  gill  of  cream,  paprika  pepper,  a  little 
salt,  and  a  pinch  of  castor  sugar.  Mix  all  well 
together  and  add  a  few  drops  of  spinach  greening 
to  give  it  a  green  tint. 

Albert  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Sauce  Bernaise,  but 
substitute  the  tarragon  with  a  few  finely-chopped 
leaves  of  green  mint,  and  add  a  little  finely- 
grated  horse-radish. 

Albufera  Sauce:  Prepare  a  rich  supreme  sauce, 
and  flavor  it  with  liquefied  meat  extract  or  glaze. 

Allemande  Sauce:  1%  oz.  butter,  1  oz.  flour,  2 
yolks  of  eggs,  1  tablespoonful  of  cream,  1  tea- 
spoonful  lemon  juice,  chicken  stock,  nutmeg, 
salt,  pepper. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour, 
stir  a  few  minutes  without  allowing  it  to  brown, 
dilute  with  rather  more  than  a  pint  of  chicken 
stock,  and  stir  until  it  boils.  Season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  grated  nutmeg.  Let  it  simmer  for 
half  an  hour,  skim,  and  finish  with  liaison  made 
of  the  yolks  of  eggs,  the  cream,  and  l/o  oz.  of 
fresh  butter.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs 
begin  to  set,  but  do  not  let  it  boil;  add  the  lemon 
juice,  and  pass  through  fine  strainer  or  tammy 
cloth. 

American  Sauce  (Sauce  Americaine) :  Heat  up 
some  tomato  sauce  and  blend  it  with  lobster 
butter  sufiicient  to  flavor  and  color,  which  must 
be  whisked  in. 

Anchovy  Sauce  (Sauce  Anchois):  1  oz.  butter, 
%  oz.  flour,  y2  pint  milk,  *4  pint  fish  stock,  1 
dessertspoonful  anchovy  essence. 


'36  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour, 
mix  well  and  cook  a  little.  Add  by  degrees  the 
milk  and  the  fish  stock.  Stir  till  it  boils,  and 
let  cook  for  10  minutes.  Incorporate  a  small 
dessertspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  boil  up  again 
and  strain. 

Another  Way:  Heat  up  half  a  pint  of  bechamel 
or  hollandaise  sauce,  and  stir  in  one  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy  essence. 

Anchovy  Cream  (Creme  d'Anchois):  Whip  up 
a  gill  of  cream  and  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of 
anchovy  essence,  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard, 
a  pinch  of  paprika  pepper,  and  if  liked  a  few 
drops  of  liquid  carmine.  When  sufficiently 
whipped  put  the  cream  into  a  sauceboat,  and 
serve  with  grilled  or  boiled  fish  such  as  salmon, 
turbot  or  soles. 

Anchovy  Egg  Sauce  (Sauce  anchois  aux 
oeuf  s) :  Melt  1  oz.  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir 
in  1  oz.  of  flour  and  cook  without  browning; 
then  add  1  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  half 
a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  and  a  similar  quantity  of 
white  stock;  stir  until  the  sauce  is  smooth. 
Next  add  a  fine-chopped  hard-boiled  egg,  a  pinch 
of  cayenne,  and  about  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cream. 

Aspic  Mayonnaise:  %  pint  aspic  jelly,  1  gill 
stiff  mayonnaise. 

Dissolve  the  aspic  and  let  it  get  partially  cool, 
then  stir  it  gently  into  the  mayonnaise  and  use 
before  it  begins  to  set,  according  to  direction. 

Aspic  a  la  Tomate  (Tomato  Aspic) :  1  pint  as- 
pic jelly,  4  small  ripe  tomatoes  or  %  pint  tomato 
pulp,  %  oz.  French  leaf  gelatine,  1  dessertspoon- 
ful sherry. 

Blanch  and  peel  the  tomatoes,  rub  through  a 
fine  hair  sieve,  dissolve  the  gelatine,  and  add 
to  the  pulp.  Put  the  jelly,  tomato  pulp,  and 
sherry  in  a  stew  pan,  boil  up,  skim  well,  and  sim- 
mer for  a  few  minutes;  pass  all  through  a  fine 
hair  sieve,  and  use  as  directed. 

Aurora  Sauce:  1  pint  of  bechamel  sauce,  2  oz. 
butter,  1  oz.  lobster  butter,  y2  gill  cream,  1 
dessertspoonful  tarragon  vinegar,  cayenne. 

Put  the  bechamel  sauce  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  37 

butter,  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  cream,  tarragon  vine- 
gar, and  lobster  butter.  Stir  well  over  boiling 
water  till  hot,  but  without  letting  the  sauce 
boil. 

Aurora  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Mix  a  gill  of  bechamel 
sauce  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mushroom  liquor,  and  half  a  gill  of 
cream.  Stir  over  the  fire  till  it  boils,  then  add 
two  hard-boiled  egg-yolks  rubbed  through  a  sieve, 
and  finish  with  an  ounce  of  lobster  butter  or 
crayfish  butter. 

Avignonese  Sauce  (Sauce  Avignonnaise) :  This 
consists  of  bechamel  sauce  enriched  with  yolks 
of  eggs  and  grated  parmesan,  to  which  is  added 
chopped  parsley;  a  flavor  of  shallots  or  garlic 
is  liked  by  some,  and  incorporated  accordingly. 

Ayola  Sauce:  This  consists  of  a  mayonnaise 
flavored  with  finely  crushed  garlic  just  sufficient 
to  taste,  and  lemon  juice. 

Batarde  Sauce  (Hot):  This  consists  of  Eng- 
lish melted  butter  sauce  enriched  with  chicken 
veloutee  and  flavored  with  lemon  juice. 

Batarde  Sauce  (Cold) :  Prepare  a  Bearnaise 
sauce,  flavor  it  with  fish  essence  or  fumet  de 
poisson  enriched  with  tomato  pure"e  and  anchovy 
butter. 

Bavaroise  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Hollandaise  or 
Dutch  sauce,  and  stir  in  some  whipped  cream 
and  sufficient  crayfish  butter  to  flavor  and  color. 

Bearnaise  Sauce:  %  gill  tarragon  vinegar,  3 
shallots  finely  chopped,  6  peppercorns,  crushed,  4 
yolks  of  eggs,  1  tablespoonful  of  white  sauce, 
4  oz.  butter,  1  sprig  thyme,  meat  glaze,  and 
lemon- juice. 

Put  the  shallots,  peppercorns  and  thyme  with 
the  vinegar  in  a  stewpan,  cover  and  boil  until 
well  reduced,  remove  the  thyme,  add  the  sauce 
and  a  little  dissolved  meat  glaze.  Whisk  in  the 
yolks  of  eggs,  taking  care  not  to  let  the  sauce 
boil,  remove  the  stewpan  from  the  fire,  and  work 
in  by  degrees  the  butter.  Only  a  little  butter 
must  be  added  at  a  time,  otherwise  the  sauce 
will  get  oily.  Strain  through  a  pointed  strainer 
or  tammy.  A  little  finely  chopped  fresh  tarragon 


38  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

and  chervil,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  may 
be  added  after  the  sauce  is  strained. 

Bearnaise  Sauce  (Brune) :  Prepare  an  ordinary 
Bearnaise  as  above,  with  the  addition  of  meat 
glaze  to  give  it  a  brown  color. 

Bearnaise  Sauce  (Tomatee):  Same  as  above, 
adding  tomato  puree  in  place  of  meat  glaze. 

Bechamel  Sauce  (White  Sauce):  Dissolve  one 
ounce  of  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  add  one 
ounce  of  flour;  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  min- 
utes, just  long  enough  to  cook  the  flour,  without 
allowing  it  to  brown.  Stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk;  add  a  small  onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  ten 
white  peppercorns,  half  a  bay -leaf ,  a  sliced  carrot, 
a  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Stir 
until  it  boils,  and  allow  to  simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Pass  through  a  tammy  cloth  or  nap- 
kin, return  to  the  stewpan,  and  finish  with  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice. 

Bechamel  Sauce  (another  way) :  1%  oz.  flour, 
2  oz.  butter,  1  }4  pint  of  milk,  and  white  meat 
stock,  1  small  onion  or  shallot,  1  small  bouquet 
garni,  10  peppercorns,  %  a  bay-leaf,  1  small  blade 
of  mace,  seasoning. 

Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  with  the  onion  or 
shallot  (peeled)  the  bouquet,  peppercorns,  mace, 
and  bay-leaf.  Melt  the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour 
and  cook  a  little  without  browning  (or  use  white 
roux)  stir  in  the  milk,  etc.,  (hot),  whisk  over 
the  fire  until  it  boils,  and  let  simmer  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes.  Take  out  the  bouquet,  rub 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy,  return  to  the  stewpan, 
season  lightly  with  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  half- 
pinch  of  cayenne,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Bechamel  Sauce  (Maigre):  Proceed  the  same 
as  above  directed,  omitting  the  meat  stock,  and 
using  in  its  place  milk  and  fish  stock  or  milk  and 
vegetable  stock  or  water. 

Beef  Marrow  Sauce  (Sauce  Moelle  de  Boeuf ) : 
Blend  some  Espagnole  sauce  with  fried  shallot, 
and  add  blanched  beef  marrow  previously  cut  in 
thin  slices,  also  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  a 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  39 

little    chili    vinegar    and    red    pepper    to    taste. 
Serve  hot. 

Beefsteak  Sauce :  Prepare  a  light  brown  sauce 
of  the  demi-glace  type  to  which  chopped  onion 
and  parsley  have  been  added.  Enrich  this  with 
meat  glaze  and  butter,  and  flavor  with  sherry 
and  lemon  juice. 

Bercy  Sauce:  Keduce  iy2  gills  of  fish  stock  to 
about  one-third  its  quantity,  then  add  1  chopped 
shallot,  previously  tossed  in  butter,  1  glass  white 
wine,  1  teaspoonful  of  meat  or  fish  glaze,  and 
reduce  again,  and  add  l/2  gill  of  veloute  sauce, 
and  the  juice  of  }4  lemon.  Tammy  and  return 
to  the  stewpan,  finish  with  1  oz.  of  herb  butter 
and  serve. 

NOTE:  The  herb  butter  is  made  with  finely 
chopped  fennel,  tarragon,  chervil,  and  parsley, 
and  fresh  butter. 

Beurre-Noir  Sauce  (Black  Butter  Sauce) :  1% 
oz.  butter,  1  teaspoonful  finely  chopped  parsley, 
%  teaspoonful  vinegar. 

Put  the  butter  in  an  omelette  pan,  fry  over  a 
quick  fire  until  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  color, 
then  add  the  vinegar  and  parsley.  Pour  over  the 
article  to  be  served. 

Bigarade  Sauce:  Proceed  the  same  as  for  or- 
ange sauce,  but  substitute  a  Seville  orange  for 
a  sweet  one.  Use  only  half  the  rind,  and  boil 
at  least  for  ten  minutes.  Omit  red-currant 
jelly,  and  add  a  glass  of  port  wine  in  its  place. 

Blanquette  Sauce:  This  sauce  is  made  the 
same  as  Sauce  Allemande,  adding  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  instead  of  one. 

Bohemian  Sauce  (Bohemienne  Sauce) :  Prepare 
a  white  sauce  with  freshly-made  breadcrumbs, 
milk  and  white  stock,  stir  in  fresh  butter  and 
finely  grated  horseradish  to  flavor,  then  season 
with  pepper  and  salt  if  needed. 

Good  Woman  Sauce  (Bonne  Femme  Sauce): 
Chop  finely  one  small  peeled  onion  or  3  shallots, 
blend  this  in  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  add  half 
a  pint  of  fish  stock.  Boil  up  and  reduce  with 
half  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce,  then  thicken  with 
2  egg-yolks,  season  to  taste,  and  flavor  with  lemon 


40  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

juice;  finish  the  sauce  with  a  little  whipped 
cream. 

Bonnefoy  Sauce:  This  consists  of  a  light,  well 
flavored  bordelaise  sauce  (claret  flavored  brown 
sauce),  into  which  a  little  fresh  butter,  some 
finely  chopped  parsley,  and  puree  of  beef  marrow 
have  been  incorporated. 

Bordelaise  Sauce:  %  pint  espagnole  or  brown 
sauce,  1  wineglassful  red  wine,  2  finely  chopped 
shallots,  y2  oz.  meat  glaze,  1  teaspoonful  chopped 
herbs  (parsley,  tarragon  and  chervil)  a  pinch 
of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper. 

Put  the  wine  and  shallots  in  a  stewpan,  re- 
duce to  half,  add  the  sauce,  and  cook  slowly  for 
twenty  minutes.  Take  off  the  scum,  add  the 
chopped  herbs  and  meat  glaze.  Season  with 
sugar,  salt  and  pepper.  Give  it  one  more  boil, 
and  keep  hot  in  the  bain-marie  until  required. 

Bordelaise  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Put  into  a  saucepan 
a  gill  of  claret,  4  finely  chopped  and  peeled 
shallots,  a  few  peppercorns,  a  bayleaf,  and  a 
sprig  of  thyme.  Cover,  and  let  it  reduce  to  about 
half  its  volume,  then  add  %  of  a  pint  of 
Espagnole  or  other  rich  brown  sauce.  Reduce  a 
little  and  strain  into  another  saucepan.  Stir  or 
whisk  in  a  pat  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  large 
tablespoonful  of  beef  marrow,  previously  cut  into 
small  dice  and  poached.  The  sauce  is  then  ready. 

NOTE:  In  most  cases  where  Bordelaise  sauce 
is  used,  and  especially  so  with  beef,  some  thin, 
round  slices  of  beef  marrow  are  blanched  and  put 
on  the  meat  before  it  is  served,  or  else  heated 
up  in  the  sauce. 

Bordeaux  Sauce:  Peel  and  mince  finely  two 
shallots,  reduce  with  1  gill  of  claret  with  y2  a 
teaspoonful  of  crushed  white  peppercorns,  a 
sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  sprig  of  marjoram.  When 
about  half  reduced,  add  1  gill  of  espagnole  sauce, 
and  boil  for  10  minutes,  then  strain,  re-heat,  and 
whisk  in  1  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  or  crayfish 
butter.  Season  to  taste,  and  use  as  directed. 

Bread  Sauce  (Sauce  au  Pain):  4  oz.  fresh 
bread-crumbs,  1  small  onion,  1  clove,  4  pepper- 
corns, 1  pint  of  milk,  y2  oz.  fresh  butter,  salt,  2 
tablespoonfuls  cream. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  41 

Peel  the  onion,  stick  in  it  the  clove,  put  the 
onion  and  milk  in  a  saucepan,  boil  up,  add  the 
bread-crumbs  and  the  peppercorns,  cook  for  fif- 
teen minutes.  Remove  the  onions  and  pepper- 
corns, stir  in  the  cream  and  butter,  season  with 
a  pinch  of  salt,  and  keep  hot  until  required  for 
serving.  If  liked  the  onion  may  be  cooked 
longer,  passed  through  a  sieve,  and  added  to  the 
sauce;  the  cream  can  be  omitted;  if  found  too 
thick,  a  little  hot  water  can  be  added.  Bread 
sauce  is  usually  served  with  roast  fowl,  turkey 
and  game  birds. 

Bread  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Peel,  slice  and  mince 
very  finely  a  small  onion;  simmer  till  quite  soft 
in  a  pint  of  milk;  strain  it  over  about  6  ounces 
of  stale  bread,  free  from  crust  and  broken  up 
small;  let  it  soak  for  an  hour,  beat  up  with  a 
fork,  and  season  with  a  little  nutmeg  or  ground 
mace,  cayenne  and  salt.  Lastly  add  an  ounce  of 
butter  and  bring  gradually  to  the  boil,  stirring 
all  the  time. 

Bread  Sauce  (No.  3) :  Insert  two  cloves  into  a 
small  peeled  onion,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with 
a  pint  of  milk,  and  let  it  infuse  over  a  gentle 
heat  for  30  minutes.  Take  out  the  onion,  add 
a  small  cup  of  breadcrumbs,  and  season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper;  boil  gently  for  five  min- 
utes, stirring  continually,  then  add  half  an  ounce 
of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  cream;  stir  and 
blend  all  thoroughly,  then  serve. 

Bread  Sauce  (No.  4) :  Put  half  a  pint  of  milk 
into  a  saucepan,  to  this  add  the  crumb  of  a  din- 
ner roll  and  a  small  peeled  onion;  bring  slowly 
to  the  boil,  stirring  occasionally,  and  cook  for 
10  minutes.  Take  out  the  onion,  add  an  ounce 
of  butter,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
cayenne  and  a  grate  of  nutmeg.  Beat  up  well 
till  quite  smooth  still  over  the  fire,  and  then 
serve. 

Breton  Sauce  (Sauce  Bretonne):  Prepare  a 
pint  of  brown  onion  sauce  in  the  usual  way,  blend 
it  with  tomato  sauce,  and  thicken  with  a  little 
haricot  bean  puree. 

Brown  Butter  Sauce  (Beurre  Noir):  Take  3 
ounces  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  minced 


42  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

parsley,  a  small  dessertspoonful  of  flour,  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Mix  the  butter,  flour  and  parsley  together,  then 
put  this  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  until  it  is 
melted,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  lastly 
the  vinegar,  and  stir  over  a  rather  hot  stove  for 
ten  minutes. 

Brown  Fish  Sauce  (Sauce  Brune  pour  Poisson) : 
%  Ib.  fish  bones,  etc.,  1%  oz.  butter,  1  dessert- 
spoonful of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  English  corn- 
flour, 1  gill  claret  (optional),  three-quarters 
pint  fish  stock  or  water,  1  sliced  onion,  1  small 
bunch  savory  herbs  (bouquet  garni),  4  mush- 
rooms, salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Fry  the  fish-bones,  etc.,  in  the  butter  over  a 
quick  fire,  add  the  onion  and  fry  also,  stir  in  the 
flour  and  cornflour,  and  let  the  flour  get  brown 
whilst  stirring;  add  the  carrot,  herbs,  and  mush- 
rooms, and  moisten  with  the  claret  and  the 
stock.  Stir  till  it  boils  and  let  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes.  Pass  through  a  tammy  cloth 
or  fine  sieve,  season  to  taste,  and  serve.  If  liked 
the  mushrooms  may  be  chopped  finely  and  put 
into  the  sauce  at  the  last. 

Cold  Bulgarian  Sauce  No.  2  (Bulgare  Sauce): 
This  can  also  be  made  with  a  cold  tomato  sauce, 
blended  with  a  little  mayonnaise,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  a  little  finely  shredded  or  chopped  cooked 
celery. 

Burgundy  Sauce  (Bourguignonne  Sauce) :  This 
is  a  brown  sauce  composed  of  Espagnole  sauce, 
to  which  finely  minced  onions  and  parsley,  re- 
duced in  Burgundy  wine,  flavored  with  thyme, 
bay-leaf,  cloves  and  mace,  have  been  added. 
Strain  or  tammy  the  sauce,  season  to  taste  and 
serve  hot. 

Butter  Sauce  (Sauce  au  beurre):  Put  1^ 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan,  together  with 
a  grate  of  nutmeg,  and  2  saltspoonfuls  of  mig- 
nonette pepper.  When  the  butter  is  hot  add 
1  oz.  of  flour,  and  cook  gently  whilst  stirring, 
taking  care  that  the  flour  does  not  brown.  When 
thoroughly  cooked  add  not  quite  1  pint  of  boil- 
ing milk,  stirring  all  the  time  until  it  forms  the 
consistency  of  ordinary  white  sauce;  if  strong 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  43 

flour  is  used  it  will  take  a  little  more  moisture. 
Eeduce  a  little,  and  then  add  gradually  4  to  6 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  stirring  quickly  during 
this  operation.  Should  the  sauce  appear  to  turn 
oily,  add  a  spoonful  of  cold  water,  flavor  with  a 
little  lemon  juice  and  salt,  and  pass  through 
a  tammy.  This  sauce  can  be  used  as  foundation 
for  a  number  of  sauces,  but  it  should  not  be 
made  too  long  before  it  is  required  to  be  used. 

Creamed  Butter  Sauce  (Beurre  Cremeuse 
Sauce) :  Beat  or  whisk  3  egg  yolks  and  add  4 
ozs.  of  butter,  stir  into  it  sufficient  richly  fla- 
vored boiling  stock.  Stir  over  hot  water  till  a 
cream-like  sauce  is  obtained. 

Byron  Sauce:  Eeduce  half  a  pint  of  demi- 
glace  sauce  with  a  gill  of  claret,  then  add  2  finely 
chopped  truffles,  and  season  to  taste. 

Calvllle  Sauce:  Strain  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
and  an  orange  into  a  clean  saucepan,  to  this  add 
4  tablespoonfuls  of  demi-glace  or  other  well- 
flavored  thin  brown  sauce,  a  few  drops  of  liquid 
carmine,  a  pinch  of  paprika  pepper,  half  an 
ounce  of  meat  glaze,  and  two  finely  chopped 
peeled  shallots;  bring  to  the  boil,  skim,  add  a 
wine-glass  of  dry  port  or  Burgundy  wine,  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar.  Serve  hot  with 
roast  birds,  such  as  teal,  sarcelle,  or  wild  duck. 

Cambridge  Sauce  (excellent  with  Cold  Meat  or 
Salad) :  4  eggs,  4  fillets  of  anchovies,  1  table- 
spoonful  of  capers,  1  dessertspoonful  French  mus- 
tard, 1  teaspoonful  English  mustard,  2  tablespoon- 
fuls olive  oil,  1  tablespoonful  tarragon  vinegar, 
tarragon  and  chervil,  cayenne,  parsley  or  olives. 

Pound  in  a  mortar  the  hard-boiled  yolks  of 
eggs,  anchovies,  capers,  a  sprig  of  tarragon  and 
chervil;  then  add  French  mustard,  English  mus- 
tard, a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  moisten 
with  the  olive  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar.  Rub 
the  whole  through  a  fine  tammy  or  hair  sieve, 
stir  in  a  little  more  oil  and  vinegar,  and  work 
to  the  desired  consistency;  keep  it  on  the  ice  till 
wanted,  and  add  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  olives 
just  before  serving.  No  salt  is  needed,  on  ac- 
count of  the  anchovies  used  in  making  this  sauce. 


44  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Cambridge  Sauce  (Cold) :  To  a  pint  of  mayon- 
naise sauce,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley 
puree,  a  dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped  capers, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  paste.  Mix  well, 
and  flavor  with  a  little  made  mustard. 

Canopere  Sauce:  This  consists  of  a  hot  fish 
sauce  made  with  fish,  court-bouillon  and  blond 
roux,  enriched  with  sufficient  crayfish  butter  to 
flavor  and  color. 

Caper  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Capres):  %  pint 
melted  butter  sauce,  1  tablespoonful  capers,  % 
tablespoonful  vinegar. 

Mix  with  the  melted  butter  sauce  a  table- 
spoonful  of  capers  and  the  vinegar.  Boil  up  and 
serve  with  boiled  fish,  mutton,  etc. 

Brown  Caper  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Capres  brune) : 
A  brown  sauce,  espagnole  or  demi-glace  contain- 
ing coarsely  chopped  capers,  seasoned  with  nut- 
meg and  black  pepper. 

Cardinal  Sauce:  %  pint  veloutee  or  bechamel 
sauce,  1  oz.  butter,  juice  of  %  lemon,  %  oz. 
lobster  coral  or  one  oz.  lobster  butter,  one 
dessertspoonful  meat  glaze,  %  gill  mushroom 
liquor,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg. 

Eeduce  the  sauce  with  the  mushroom  liquor, 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  grate  of  nutmeg; 
add  the  lemon-juice,  and  whisk  in  the  butter  and 
lobster  butter  or  coral,  the  latter  finely  chopped. 
Strain  or  tammy.  Eeturn  to  the  stewpan  and 
add  the  meat  glaze,  stir  till  smooth,  and  keep  hot 
in  the  bain-marie  till  required. 

NOTE:  When  this  sauce  is  required  for 
maigre  dishes  use  bechamel  maigre  sauce  in  place 
of  veloutee.  Omit  the  meat  glaze  and  add  in  its 
place  ^4  gill  of  cream. 

Celery  Sauce:  Trim  and  wash  the  white  part 
of  a  large  head  of  celery,  peel  a  good-sized  onion, 
cut  both  up  small  and  boil  in  salted  water  till 
tender,  drain,  and  chop  very  finely.  Rub  the 
yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  through  a  sieve, 
and  mix  with  half  a  teacupful  of  cream  and  a 
little  white  stock,  add  the  celery  and  onion,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  chilli  vinegar.  Season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  hot  or  cold. 


THE  BOOK   OF    SAUCES  45 

Celery  Cream  Sauce  (Creme  de  Celeri):  1 
small  head  of  celery,  1  pint  milk,  1  oz.  butter, 
1  oz.  flour,  a  little  cream,  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg. 

Eemove  the  best  part  of  the  celery,  wash  well, 
blanch  it,  drain  and  steep  in  cold  water;  cut  the 
celery  into  small  pieces,  put  in  a  stewpan  with 
the  milk,  diluted  with  a  little  cold  stock,  add 
some  salt,  boil  up,  skim,  and  cook  till  tender. 
Meanwhile  prepare  a  white  roux,  i.  e.  dissolve 
the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  flour,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  latter  is  cooked  without 
browning;  then  add  gradually  the  celery  and 
stock,  let  boil  a  little  longer,  pass  through  a 
tammy  cloth,  return  to  the  stewpan.  Season  to 
taste  with  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Stir  over 
the  fire  until  it  boils,  then  add  a  little  cream,  and 
keep  in  the  bain-marie  until  required. 

Champagne  Sauce:  %  pint  of  espagnole  sauce, 
1  glass  of  champagne,  2  cloves,  6  peppercorns, 
1  bay-leaf. 

Put  the  cloves,  peppercorns,  bay-leaf,  and 
espagnole  sauce  into  a  stewpan  on  the  fire;  let 
it  reduce  a  little,  add  the  champagne,  and  the 
essence  remaining  from  the  braised  ham.  Reduce 
the  whole  for  ten  minutes,  or  longer  if  found 
too  thin.  Strain  through  a  pointed  strainer  and 
serve  with  braised  ham. 

White  Mushroom  Sauce  (Sauce  Champignons, 
Blanche):  iy2  gill  bechamel  sauce,  1%  gill 
white  stock,  10  mushrooms,  1  dessertspoonful 
lemon-juice,  white  wine,  1  tablespoonful  cream. 

Boil  together  the  bechamel  sauce  and  the  veal 
stock  (or  other  white  stock),  and  reduce  to  about 
half  its  original  quantity.  Skim  well  and  add  the 
preserved  mushrooms  cut  into  slices,  1  tablespoon- 
ful of  mushroom  liquor,  lemon-juice,  and  about 
half  a  gill  of  Chablis  or  other  white  wine.  Let 
the  whole  boil,  season  to  taste,  then  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  cream,  and  serve. 

Brown  Mushroom  Sauce  (Sauce  Champignons, 
forune) :  %  pint  demi-glace  sauce,  1  glass  sherry, 
and  10  champignons  (preserved  mushrooms). 

Chop  finely  the  preserved  mushrooms  (cham- 
pignons), put  them  in  a  small  stewpan  with  a 


46  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

little  of  the  liquor  and  the  sherry,  cover  and 
allow  to  reduce  well.  Now  add  the  demi-glace  or 
thin  espagnole  sauce;  boil  up,  skim,  season  to 
taste,  and  use  as  required. 

Chasseur  Sauce:  %  pint  Madere  sauce,  %  gill 
game  liquor  (fumet),  lemon-juice,  and  1  to  2 
livers  of  game. 

Chop  the  liver  finely  and  cook  with  the  sauce 
and  liquor  of  game  for  about  ten  minutes,  season 
to  taste,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice  and 
serve. 

Cliasseur  Royal  Sauce:  1  small  onion,  bay-leaf, 
parsley,  thyme,  marjoram,  10  peppercorns,  1  glass 
port  wine,  */!>  pint  espagnole  sauce,  1  teaspoonful 
anchovy  essence,  y2  gill  of  double  cream. 

Chop  the  bones  of  the  fish  used,  and  put  in  a 
stewpan  with  the  trimmings  of  the  oysters,  the 
sliced  onion,  bay-leaf,  sprig  of  parsley  and  thyme, 
and  a  sprig  of  marjoram. 

Moisten  with  the  port  wine,  let  it  reduce  to 
half  the  original  quantity.  Keep  well  covered 
during  the  process.  Now  add  the  crushed  pep- 
percorns, anchovy  essence,  and  espagnole  sauce, 
or  1  gill  of  brown  stock.  Simmer  for  twenty 
minutes,  remove  the  scum,  and  pass  through  a 
tammy  cloth  or  very  fine  pointed  strainer.  Re- 
turn to  the  stewpan,  add  a  little  seasoning  if 
needed,  and  finish  with  %  gill  of  double  cream. 
Keep  very  hot,  but  not  boiling,  and  use  as 
directed. 

Chateaubriand  Sauce  (also  called  Crapaudine 
Sauce) :  1  gill  Chablis  or  Sauterne  wine,  2 
cloves,  1  sprig  of  thyme,  2  shallots,  12  pepper- 
corns, about  1%  gill  meat  glaze,  the  juice  of  y2 
lemon,  2  oz.  butter,  and  %  teaspoonful  chopped 
tarragon. 

Peel  and  chop  the  shallots,  put  them  with  the 
wine,  cloves,  thyme,  and  crushed  peppercorns  in 
a  small  stewpan,  cover  and  reduce  to  half  its 
quantity,  strain  into  another  stewpan,  add  the 
lemon-juice.  Work  in  the  meat  glaze  and  butter 
bit  by  bit  (keep  the  stewpan  in  the  bain-marie), 
add  the  tarragon  last  of  all.  Whisk  well,  and 
serve  very  hot  with  fillet  steak,  Chateaubriand, 
etc. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  47 

Chaud-froid  Sauce,  Blanche  (White  Chaud- 
froid  Sauce) :  %  pint  bechamel  or  supreme 
sauce,  1  gill  aspic,  5  or  6  leaves  French  gelatine, 
1  gill  cream,  1  teaspoonful  chili  vinegar  or  lemon- 
juice. 

Dissolve  the  gelatine  along  with  the  aspic  jelly, 
warm  up  the  sauce,  and  mix  the  two  together. 
Stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  put  in  vinegar 
or  lemon-juice,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes. 
Strain  or  tammy;  add  the  cream  when  cooling, 
and  use  as  required. 

Chaud-froid  Sauce,  Blonde  (Fawn  Chaud-froid 
Sauce):  y2  pint  aspic  jelly,  1  gill  allemande 
sauce,  1/2  gill  cream,  1  tablespoonful  espagnole 
sauce,  y%  oz.  French  leaf  gelatine,  a  glass  of 
Madeira  wine,  pepper  and  salt. 

Melt  the  aspic  jelly  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  wine, 
espagnole,  and  allemande  sauce,  let  it  come  to  a 
boil,  and  skim.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water, 
squeeze  it  well,  and  put  with  the  sauce;  when  dis- 
solved, stir  in  the  cream,  pass  through  a  tammy 
cloth  or  fine  strainer,  and  use  as  directed. 

Chaud-froid  Sauce,  Brune  (Brown  Chaud-froid 
Sauce) :  y±  pint  espagnole  or  salmi  sauce,  1  glass 
Madeira  or  sherry,  %  pint  aspic,  4  leaves  French 
gelatine,  and  cream. 

Boil  up  the  sauce.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  with 
the  aspic,  mix  both  together,  add  the  wine,  let 
simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and  pass  through  a 
tammy  cloth,  add  a  little  cream,  and  flavor  to 
taste. 

Chaud-froid  Sauce,  Green  or  Pink:  Prepare  a 
white  chaud-froid  sauce,  to  which  add  a  few 
drops  of  spinach  greening  to  give  it  a  green  tint, 
or  a  few  drops  of  liquid  carmine  or  cochineal 
to  give  it  a  rose  or  pink  tint. 

Chestnut  Sauce  (Savoury):  Par-roast  %  a 
pound  of  previously  slit  chestnuts,  and  remove 
the  outer  skin,  then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water,  and  cook  until  the  inner  skins  can 
be  easily  removed.  When  this  is  done,  stew 
the  chestnuts  in  seasoned  milk  till  tender,  then 
rub  through  a  sieve.  Season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  dilute  the  puree  with  a  little 
rich  gravy;  reheat,  and  serve  with  roast  turkey, 


48  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

or  as  a  sauce  with  grilled  and  devilled  legs  of 
a  cold  roast  bird. 

Chestnut  Sauce  (Savoury  or  Sweet):  Slit  a 
dozen  chestnuts  and  boil  them  in  water,  then 
drain  and  remove  both  shell  and  skin  from  the 
chestnuts.  Next  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  glass  of  claret,  and  a  gill  of  water,  cover,  and 
cook  till  tender,  then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Ee- 
heat  the  puree  with  enough  seasoned  stock  to 
form  a  sauce,  season  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
and  a  grate  of  nutmeg. 

Note:  If  the  sauce  is  required  sweet,  use 
syrup  in  place  of  stock,  and  omit  the  cayenne. 

Venison  Sauce  (Chevreuil  Sauce):  y2  pint 
espagnole  sauce,  1  glass  port  wine,  1  dessert- 
spoonful red-currant  jelly,  1  oz.  lean  ham,  1  oz. 
butter,  %  gill  vinegar,  1  small  onion,  12  pepper- 
corns, 1  bay-leaf,  ^  small  carrot,  thyme,  parsley. 

Mince  finely  the  onion  and  ham,  fry  these  in 
the  butter,  and  add  the  vinegar,  crushed  pepper- 
corns, bay -leaf,  minced  carrot,  and  a  little  thyme 
and  chopped  parsley.  Cover  and  boil  for  ten 
minutes.  Then  add  the  espagnole  sauce,  port 
wine,  and  the  red-currant  jelly.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes,  skim  and  strain,  season  to  taste,  re-heat, 
and  use  as  required. 

Chutney  Sauce:  Make  a  sauce  the  same  as 
directed  for  venison  sauce,  omitting  the  red  cur- 
rant jelly,  and  adding  instead  one  heaped-up 
tablespoonful  of  mango  chutney,  which  must  be 
chopped  up  rather  finely. 

Brown  Herb  Sauce  (Colbert  Sauce  aux  Fines 
Herbes).  iy2  gill  espagnole  sauce,  1  glass  of 
Madeira  wine,  1  tablespoonful  of  meat  glaze, 
1%  oz.  of  fresh  butter,  1  teaspoonful  lemon-juice, 
chopped  parsley,  tarragon,  and  chervil — one  des- 
sertspoonful in  all. 

Put  the  sauce  into  a  small  stewpan,  stir  over 
the  fire  until  hot,  add  the  wine,  and  let  boil  a 
few  minutes.  Remove  to  the  side  of  the  stove, 
and  stir  in  'gradually  the  butter  and  the  meat 
glaze.  Beat  up  with  a  small  whisk,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil  again.  Last  of  all  add  the  lemon-juice 
and  the  chopped  herbs.  Serve  as  directed.  If 


THE  BOOK  OF   SAUCES  49 

desired  richer,  %  oz.  more  butter  may  be  added 
in  the  manner  described. 

Cream  Sauce  (Sauce  a  la  Creme):  Put  into  a 
saucepan  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  3  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  veloute  or  other 
rich  white  sauce,  and  whisk  in  half  an  ounce  of 
fresh  butter;  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
paprika  pepper,  and  lastly  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice.  Stir  or  whisk,  and  cook  in  a  bain 
marie  till  it  becomes  of  a  creamlike  consistency. 

Aspic  or  Savory  Cream  (Creme  a  r Aspic): 
%  gill  bechamel  or  allemande  sauce,  1  teaspoon- 
ful tarragon  vinegar,  y2  pint  aspic  jelly,  1  gill 
double  cream,  cayenne,  mignonette  pepper. 

Warm  up  the  bechamel  or  allemande  sauce, 
add  the  tarragon  vinegar,  stir  this  into  the  liquid 
aspic  jelly,  mix  with  it  the  cream,  season  with  a 
pinch  of  cayenne  and  mignonette  pepper.  Pass 
through  a  sieve  or  tammy  cloth,  and  use  as 
directed. 

Cold  Cucumber  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Concombres) : 
%  cucumber,  %  gill  bechamel  sauce,  y2  gill 
cream,  1  gill  mayonnaise  sauce,  salt,  pepper  to 
taste,  spinach  greening. 

Peel  thinly  the  cucumber  and  cut  into  small 
pieces,  boil  in  salted  water  till  tender,  and  rub 
through  a  hair  sieve.  Eeturn  the  pulp  to  the 
stewpan,  add  the  bechamel  sauce;  let  it  reduce 
to  about  half  the  original  quantity,  and  let  it 
cool.  Whip  the  cream  until  stiff;  work  in  the 
mayonnaise  sauce,  and  mix  slowly  with  the  re- 
duced cold  sauce,  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper 
if  needed,  also  a  few  drops  of  spinach  greening. 
The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Cucumber  Sauce  Na.  2  (Sauce  aux  Concom- 
bres) :  Peel  a  small  or  half  a  large  cucumber, 
cut  it  into  pieces,  and  boil  till  tender  in  salted 
water  or  white  stock.  Drain  well,  and  rub  it 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Put  the  pulp  into  a  small 
stewpan,  and  let  reduce  to  half  its  quantity  with 
a  gill  of  Bechamel  sauce;  season  to  taste,  strain 
again,  and  add  to  it  %  tablespoonful  of  Mayon- 
naise sauce,  into  this  stir  the  cold  cucumber 
puree,  and  place  on  the  ice.  Whip  up  y2  gill  of 
cream.  The  sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 


50  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Cucumber  Sauce,  Hot  (Sauce  aux  Concombres,- 
chaude)  is  made  in  the  same  way,  by  omitting 
the  mayonnaise  and  adding  an  extra  quantity  of 
hot  bechamel  sauce.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  before 
serving. 

Crab  Sauce:  Eemove  the  meat  from  a  crab 
and  shred  it  finely,  then  season  with  salt  and 
paprika  pepper.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  containing 
a  pint  of  melted  butter  sauce,  and  let  it  simmer 
for  ten  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Cranberry  Sauce:  Wash  and  drain  half  a  pint 
of  cranberries,  and  cook  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
half  a  pint  of  water  and  one  ounce  of  castor 
sugar;  when  sufficiently  tender,  pass  them 
through  a  fine  sieve,  then  mix  with  the  pure"e  a 
gill  of  cooked  apple  pulp,  season  to  taste,  and 
use  when  cold. 

Cumberland  Sauce  (a  Cold  Game  Sauce):  2 
shallots,  1  orange,  1  lemon,  1  dessertspoonful  mus- 
tard, %  gill  port  wine,  ground  ginger,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  red-currant  jelly,  2  tablespoonfuls 
vinegar,  salt^  pepper,  cayenne. 

Mince  the  shallots,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with, 
the  thin  rinds  of  the  lemon  and  orange  cut  into 
fine  Julienne  strips.  Add  half  a  gill  of  water 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  and  return 
to  the  stewpan,  adding  the  mixed  mustard,  port 
wine,  a  pinch  of  ground  ginger,  red-currant  jelly, 
the  juice  of  the  lemon  and  orange,  and  the  vine- 
gar. Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
cayenne,  boil  up,  strain,  and  serve  cold  with  any 
kind  of  game  or  ducks.  A  gill  of  espagnole  sauce 
added  improves  this  sauce. 

Cumberland  Sauce  No.  2:  Cut  very  thinly  the 
outer  rind  of  an  orange,  then  cut  the  strips  into 
fine  shreds.  Put  them  into  a  small  earthenware 
saucepan  (casserole),  pour  over  half-  a  glass  of 
dry  port  wine,  and  place  on  the  side  of  the  stove 
to  get  warm,  then  allow  to  cool  and  stir  in 
about  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  English  mustard,  a 
good  pinch  of  salt,  and  the  strained  juice  of 
the  orange.  Next  melt  about  2  ounces  of  red 
currant  jelly  and  stir  into  the  above.  A  very 
small  quantity  of  spice  such  as  cayenne  or 


THE   BOOK  OF   SAUCES  51 

paprika  pepper  may  be  added  if  liked.     This  is 
considered  essential  by  many  chefs. 

Currie  Sauce:  Prepare  the  following:  Peel  1 
onion,  scrape  finely  1  small  carrot,  peel  1  small 
apple  and  chop  all  up  very  small.  Fry  these  in 
a  saucepan  with  1  ounce  of  butter,  then  add  1 
tablespoonful  of  curry  powder  and  half  a  pint 
of  tomato  puree  or  sauce.  Season  to  taste  with 
salt  and  pepper,  then  add  a  good  ladle  of 
espagnole  sauce.  Boil  for  several  minutes,  pass 
through  a  fine  strainer,  then  add  a  little  chopped 
gherkin  and  some  finely  chopped  parsley. 

Curry  Sauce:  Peel  and  slice  a  small  onion, 
scrape  and  slice  a  small  carrot,  fry  both  together 
in  half  an  ounce  of  butter;  when  the  onion  has 
acquired  a  light  brown  color,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  mild  curry  powder  and  stir  for  a  few 
seconds.  Next  add  a  small  peeled  and  chopped 
apple,  moisten  with  half  a  gill  of  tomato  pulp 
and  a  gill  of  brown  sauce.  Allow  to  boil  for  a 
few  minutes.  Season  to  taste,  and  pass  it 
through  a  fine  strainer.  Reheat  and  stir  in  last 
of  all  a  finely  chopped  pickled  gherkin. 

Danish  Sauce  (Sauce  Danoise) :  2  oz.  butter, 
1  oz.  flour,  1  glass  sherry,  ^  gill  Chablis  or 
Sauterne,  1  pint  fish  stock,  ^  oz.  grated  Parme- 
san, 2  teaspoonfuls  meat  glaze,  1  teaspoonful 
anchovy  essence,  1  gill  cream,  ^  oz.  lobster 
coral,  salt  and  pepper. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour, 
let  it  cook  a  few  minutes  without  taking  color. 
Moisten  with  the  wine  and  fish  stock.  Stir 
until  it  boils,  then  add  the  anchovy  essence,  meat 
glaze,  and  grated  cheese.  Season  to  taste  with 
pepper  and  salt,  let  simmer  gently  for  a  few 
minutes,  skim  and  pass  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Eeturn  to  a  clean  stewpan  and  bring  to  a  boil. 
Work  in  the  cream  and  lobster  coral  or  lobster 
butter.  Keep  hot,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again. 
Serve  with  dressed  fish — salmon,  turbot,  soles,  or 
lobster. 

Demi-Glace   Sauce    (Half  Glaze    Sauce):      % 

pint  espagnole  sauce,  1^4  gill  good  gravy,  pepper. 

Reduce  to  a  half-glaze  espagnole  sauce  with 


52  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

the  gravy  from  roast  veal  or  beef  (strained  and 
free  from  fat);  allow  to  simmer  about  fifteen 
minutes,  and  season  with,  a  pinch  of  pepper. 

Devilled  Sauce  (Sauce  Diable) :  %  pint  demi- 
glace  sauce,  1  tablespoonful  mixed  mustard,  1 
dessertspoonful  Worcester  sauce,  %  oz.  butter, 
2  finely  minced  shallots,  cayenne,  parsley. 

Fry  the  shallots  in  the  butter  to  a  golden 
color,  add  the  demi-glace  sauce,  mixed  mustard, 
Worcestershire  sauce,  and  a  good  pinch  of  cay- 
enne. Stir  until  it  boils,  skim  and  pass  through 
a  fine  strainer,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  finely 
chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Duchesse  Sauce:  Take  half  a  pint  of  richly 
seasoned  meat  gravy,  thicken  it  with  half  an 
ounce  of  arrowroot,  mixed  previously  with  a 
little  cold  water  or  stocK,  then  add  1  tablespoon- 
ful of  liquid  meat  glaze,  and  a  wineglassful  of 
dry  white  wine  and  a  teaspoonful  of  red  currant 
jelly.  Boil  up,  simmer  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
serve. 

Prawn  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Ecrevisses):  Pro- 
ceed the  same  as  for  sauce  Cardinal  and  include 
12  prawns '  heads,  which  must  be  cut  in  quarters 
and  placed  into  the  sauce  a  few  minutes  before 
serving. 

Crayfish  Sauce  (Ecrevisse  Sauce) :  Mix  half  a 
pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  with  a  gill  of  small 
peeled  crayfish  tails,  and  finish  the  sauce  with  a 
little  crayfish  butter  as  liaison. 

Echalote  Sauce  (Shallot  Sauce):  Prepare  a 
brown  gravy  or  demi-glace  sauce,  add  to  it  some 
finely  minced  shallots  previously  blended  in  but- 
ter, some  lemon  juice  to  flavor,  and  finely 
chopped  parsley. 

Epicurienne  Sauce:  1  small  cucumber,  1  gill 
mayonnaise,  %  gill  cream,  1  tablespoonful  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  14  gill  aspic  jelly,  1  teaspoonful 
anchovy  essence,  1  dessertspoonful  chopped 
gherkins,  1  dessertspoonful  chutney,  pepper,  salt, 
sugar. 

Peel  the  cucumber,  cut  it  into  small  pieces, 
cook  till  tender  in  salted  water,  strain  and  rub 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve.  When  cold,  stir  this 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  53 

puree  gradually  into  the  mayonnaise  sauce,  add 
the  cream,  aspic,  anchovy  essence,  the  vinegar, 
and  chutney  (the  latter  should  previously  be 
rubbed  through  a  sieve) ;  season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  a  small  pinch  of  castor  sugar;  add 
the  chopped  gherkins  and  a  few  drops  of  spinach 
greening  to  give  it  a  greenish  tint.  This  sauce  is 
especially  suitable  for  asparagus,  artichokes,  or 
boiled  fish. 

Epicure  Sauce  (Epicurean  Sauce):  This  is  a 
white  fish  sauce  consisting  of  a  rich  white  sauce, 
mixed  with  a  little  essence  of  crayfish,  finely 
chopped  truffles,  chilli  vinegar,  and  cayenne  pep- 
per to  taste. 

Espagnole  Sauce   (Spanish  Sauce):     3  quarts 

of  rich  stock,  4  oz.  lean  veal,  1  bouquet  garni, 
12  peppercorns,  4  oz.  butter,  4  oz.  flour  (sifted), 
4  oz.  raw  ham  or  lean  bacon,  1  carrot,  1  onion, 

2  cloves,    %   pint   tomato  pulp,   1   gill   claret,   1 
glass    sherry,    some    mushrooms    (fresh    or    pre- 
served). 

This  is  the  chief  brown  foundation  sauce — it 
forms  the  basis  for  a  large  number  of  other 
sauces.  It  is  advisable  that  particular  care  and 
attention  be  paid  to  the  preparation  of  this  im- 
portant sauce.  The  ingredients  given  will  pro- 
duce about  half  a  gallon  of  sauce.  A  smaller 
quantity  can  be  prepared  by  reducing  the  quan- 
tities in  proportion.  It  is,  however,  advisable 
to  have  at  all  times  an  ample  supply  of  this 
sauce. 

Wash  and  peel  the  carrot,  turnip,  and  onion, 
cut  up  small  and  put  in  a  stewpan  with  the 
bouquet,  peppercorns,  cloves,  and  the  veal  and 
ham,  both  cut  into  pieces.  Add  an  ounce  of 
butter,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  of  a  nice 
light  brown  color;  this  forms  a  true  mirepoix. 
Pour  off  the  fat,  moisten  the  mirepoix  with  the 
stock,  claret,  sherry,  and  tomato  pulp,  boil 
gently  for  about  an  hour.  Skim  occasionally. 
Meanwhile,  prepare  a  brown  roux  by  melting 

3  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  the  flour, 
and    cook    very    slowly    over    a    moderate    fire, 
stirring  all  the  while  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
it  acquires  a  chestnut-brown  color;  or  place  the 


54  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

stewpan  in  the  oven  and  let  it  cook,  stirring 
from  time  to  time  to  prevent  it  from  burning, 
and  to  blend  the  flour  better.  Allow  the  roux 
to  cool  a  little,  pour  in  gradually  the  prepared 
stock,  etc.,  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  let 
simmer  slowly  for  another  hour,  skim  well,  and 
pass  through  a  tammy  cloth  or  fine  sieve.  If 
found  too  thick,  add  a  little  more  stock.  To 
prevent  a  thick  crust  forming  on  the  top  of  the 
sauce,  stir  occasionally  until  quite  cool.  Keep 
the  sauce  in  a  stone  vessel  or  pan  until  wanted. 
Be  sure  and  boil  up  the  sauce  each  day  if  not 
used  at  one  time,  adding  a  little  'stock  if 
necessary. 

Essence  de  Gibier  Sauce:  This  is  a  brown 
sauce  (demi-glace  or  Madere)  enriched  with 
essence  of  game. 

Tarragon  Sauce  (Sauce  a  1'Estragon) :  This  is 
a  thin  brown  sauce  of  the  demi-glace  type  fla- 
vored with  tarragon  leaves.  It  is  usually  served 
with  poultry  or  quenelles. 

Farmhouse  Sauce  (Sauce  Fermiere):  Take 
half  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  blend  it  with 
finely  chopped  ham,  chopped  parsley  and  capers. 
This  sauce  is  usually  served  with  game. 

Fennel  Sauce  (Sauce  Fenouil):  To  a  pint  of 
well-reduced  white  sauce  (Bechamel  or  Dutch 
sauce),  add  some  finely  chopped  fennel.  Mix  it 
well  and  serve  with  boiled  fish. 

Flemish  Sauce  (Sauce  Flamande) :  Prepare  a 
Dutch  sauce  flavored  with  fish  stock,  then  thicken 
it  with  yolks  of  eggs  as  liaison,  and  flavor  it 
with  a  little  prepared  mustard. 

Fleurette  Sauce:  This  is  a  white  sauce,  served 
with  fish  or  vegetables,  made  with  the  usual  pro- 
portions of  flour,  butter  and  fleurette  (which  is 
the  name  applied  to  the  first  skimming  of  milk 
which  is  rather  sweet);  season  the  sauce  with 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Finangiere  Sauce:  Prepare  a  rich  brown  sauce, 
reduce  with  sherry  or  Marsala  and  mushroom 
liquor,  and  enrich  it  with  liquefied  meat  extract. 
Thinly  sliced  truffles,  small  mushrooms  and 
cock's-combs  are  added  when  the  sauce  is  ready 
for  serving. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  55 

Game  Sauce  (Sauce  Gibier) :  Some  game  bones 
and  trimmings,  1  pint  espagnole  or  brown  sauce, 
y2  gill  sherry,  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  parsley, 
thyme,  marjoram,  bay-leaf,  mace,  clove. 

The  trimmings,  carcasses,  etc.,  of  any  kind  of. 
game  may  be  used  for  this  sauce;  those  of  grouse 
or  woodcock  are  preferable.  Chop  small  the 
trimmings  of  game,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  small  onion,  a  piece  of  carrot,  and  a  piece  of 
turnip  all  cut  in  slices,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley, 
a  sprig  of  thyme,  one  of  marjoram,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
small  piece  of  mace,  and  one  clove,  moisten  with 
the  sherry,  cover  and  put  on  the  fire  to  cook  for 
five  minutes.  Now  add  the  espagnole  or  brown 
sauce,  let  it  come  quickly  to  a  boil,  and  keep 
simmering  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Pass 
through  a  tammy  cloth,  return  to  a  clean  stew- 
pan,  season  with  a  little  salt  if  necessary,  and 
keep  hot  in  the  bain-marie  until  required  for 
serving. 

Garibaldi  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Genoise  sauce 
made  with  meat  or  fish  basis,  flavor  it  with  a 
suspicion  of  pounded  garlic  and  curry  powder, 
finely  chopped  capers,  and  anchovy  essence  or 
paste  to  which  a  little  chili  vinegar  should  be 
added,  just  enough  to  flavor.  Careful  blending 
of  the  above  named  flavoring  ingredients  is  es- 
sential when  making  this  sauce. 

Generate  Sauce:  This  is  a  rich  brown  sauce 
made  with  a  basis  of  Demi-glace  or  Madere 
which  is  reduced  with  a  small  quantity  of  lemon 
juice  and  tarragon  vinegar.  A  little  finely 
shredded  orange  rind,  previously  reduced  in 
some  sherry,  is  then  added.  The  sauce  is  fla- 
vored with  very  little  garlic  or  shallot,  bay  leaf, 
clove  and  mace.  Careful  blending  of  the  flavor- 
ing ingredients  is  most  essential  for  this  sauce. 

Genoise  Sauce:  Melt  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a 
stewpan,  and  fry  in  it  a  sliced  onion,  a  shallot, 
half  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  small  bouquet  garni, 
add  a  glass  of  Burgundy,  and  let  simmer  until 
the  onions  are  done,  then  add  a  pint  of 
Espagnole  sauce,  and  let  simmer  gently  for  ten 
minutes.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy, 
add  a  pinch  of  mignonette  pepper,  and  a  tea- 


56  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

spoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  and  use  as  directed. 

Genoise  Sauce:  No.  2.  Prepare  a  mirepoix 
of  1  carrot,  %  stick  of  celery,  1  onion,  2  fresh 
mushrooms,  and  2  ozs.  bacon,  all  cut  into  dice. 
Melt  1  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
above  mirepoix,  also  one  bay  leaf  and  a  few 
peppercorns,  and  fry  for  five  minutes  over  a 
brisk  fire.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir 
till  it  acquires  a  nut-brown  color.  Moisten  with 
one  glass  of  Burgundy  wine  and  y%  pint  of  fish 
stock.  Boil  up  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour. 
Strain,  and  season  to  taste.  Ee-heat  and  serve 
as  required  for  fish. 

Genoise  Sauce  (Rich  Brown  Fish  Sauce):  1 
sliced  onion,  1  shallot,  %  clove  of  garlic,  1  oz. 
butter,  small  bouquet  garni,  1  teaspoonful  an- 
chovy essence,  1  glass  red  wine  (Burgundy),  1 
pint  espagnole  sauce  (made  from  fish  stock  if 
desired),  a  pinch  of  mignonette  pepper. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  fry  onion, 
shallot,  garlic,  and  bouquet,  add  the  wine,  let 
simmer  until  the  onions  are  done,  then  add  the 
sauce,  and  let  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes. 
Strain  through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy,  add  the 
pepper  and  anchovy  essence,  and  use  as  required. 

Giblet  Sauce:  Boil  some  previously  washed 
giblets  in  seasoned  water  with  an  onion.  When 
done,  strain,  take  up  the  giblet  and  onion,  and 
chop  both  finely.  Put  this  puree  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  piece  of  butter,  add  the  strained  stock  and 
gravy  and  a  small  glass  of  claret;  season  with 
aromatics  and  salt.  Simmer  slowly  for  about  ten 
minutes  longer,  then  blend  with  a  little  rich 
brown  sauce  or  roux,  re-heat,  and  serve  hot. 

Gooseberry  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  groseilles  vertes) : 
Put  half  a  pound  of  green  gooseberries  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  very  little  water,  and  cook  till 
soft,  then  mash  them,  grate  in  a  little  nutmeg, 
and  sweeten  with  castor  sugar  to  taste.  Pass 
through  a  sieve  and  finish  with  an  ounce  of 
butter.  Serve  with  roast  pork  or  roast  goose; 
it  is  also  sometimes  served  with  boiled  mackerel. 
A  little  spinach  greening  may  be  added  to  the 
sauce  if  liked. 

Gouffe  Sauce:     Eequired:     1  gill  cream,  %  gill 


THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES  57 

wine  vinegar,  3  yolks  of  eggs,  1  bay-leaf,  6 
crushed  peppercorns,  salt,  2  oz.  butter,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  1  tablespoonful  chopped  lob- 
ster meat. 

Put  the  vinegar,  bay-leaf,  and  peppercorns  in 
a  stewpan  (covered) ;  let  it  reduce  a  little.  Add 
the  yolks  of  eggs  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the 
sauce  begins  to  thicken,  then  remove  and  put  in 
a  saucepan  containing  boiling  water,  or  in  the 
bain-marie.  Work  in  the  butter  a  little  at  a 
time,  also  the  cream,  stir  vigorously  with  a  small 
whisk.  Pass  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy 
cloth,  return  to  a  clean  stewpan,  add  the  chopped 
lobster  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  stir  again,  place  a 
few  bits  of  butter  on  top,  and  keep  hot  until 
required  for  serving. 

Granville  Sauce:  Prepare  a  white  wine  fish 
sauce  or  other  rich  white  sauce,  to  which  add 
some  finely  chopped  preserved  mushrooms  (cham- 
pignons), also  a  few  picked  shrimps  and  finely 
chopped  truffles. 

Gravy  Without  Meat:  Cut  up  into  thin  slices 
half  a  peeled  onion  and  a  small  scraped  carrot, 
fry  both  in  half  an  ounce  of  butter  or  dripping; 
when  nicely  browned  add  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  Marmite  or  Savoy  extract. 
Boil  up,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook 
for  ten  minutes.  Skim  well,  then  strain  and  serve 
as  required. 

See  also  Jus-Gravy. 

Green  Mousseline  Sauce  (Sauce  Mousseline 
verte) :  To  half  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  savory  herb  puree  prepared  as 
follows:  Blanch  a  handful  of  parsley,  tarragon, 
chervil,  and  a  little  fennel,  drain,  and  pound  in 
a  mortar  with  2  peeled  and  chopped  shallots,  a 
teaspoonful  of  capers,  2  gherkins,  2  filletted 
anchovies,  1  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  salad  oil.  Eub  through  a  fine 
sieve,  mix  a  tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar 
with  half  a  gill  of  aspic  jelly,  whisk  all  to- 
gether till  frothlike,  then  stir  it  into  the  pre- 
pared mayonnaise. 

Gribiche  Sauce:  Take  half  a  pint  of  Mayon- 
naise sauce,  and  add  sufficient  mixed  mustard  to 


58  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

flavor,  then  stir  in  some  finely  chopped  fresh 
savory  herbs  (fines  herbes)  and  serve. 

Hachis  Sauce:  Mix  some  well  reduced  brown 
sauce  with  a  little  rich  gravy  from  roast  meat, 
then  add  finely  chopped  mushrooms  (cham- 
pignons), also  chopped  gherkins  and  capers  in 
due  proportion.  Cook  a  little  and  serve. 

Ham  Sauce  (Jambon  Sauce):  Prepare  a  rich 
brown  sauce,  and  mix  it  with  finely  shredded, 
grated,  or  chopped  ham,  chopped  chives,  shallots, 
and  parsley,  previously  blended  in  butter,  then 
flavor  with  lemon  juice  and  the  necessary  sea- 
soning. Boil  up  and  serve  hot. 

Hessoise  Sauce:  Prepare  a  good  horse-radish 
sauce  with  grated  horse-radish,  sour  cream,  and 
fresh  breadcrumbs  (previously  soaked  in  milk); 
season  to  taste  with  castor  sugar,  white  pepper, 
and  salt.  This  sauce  is  usually  served  hot. 

Hollandaise  Sauce  (Dutch  Sauce):  Crush 
about  a  dozen  peppercorns,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  2  tablespoonfuls  of  French  wine  vine- 
gar and  4  tablespoonfuls  of  water.  Cover  the 
pan  and  place  it  on  the  fire,  boil  fast  to  confuse 
the  contents  of  the  pan.  It  should  be  reduced 
to  about  one-half  its  volume.  Stir  or  whisk  in 
4  yolks  of  eggs,  then  by  degrees  whisk  in  4  to  6 
oz.  of  fresh  butter,  and  lastly  add  about  a  gill  of 
hot  water.  Season  with  salt  and  the  juice  of  % 
a  lemon.  Pass  the  sauce  through  a  fine  tammy 
cloth.  Eeturn  it  to  a  clean  saucepan,  which  must 
stand  in  a  pan  of  hot  (not  boiling)  water.  Keep 
it  thus  till  required  for  table. 

Dutch  Sauce  (Hollandaise) :  Take  4  eggs,  4  oz. 
butter,  4  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  4  tablespoonfuls 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  1  dessertspoonful  of  flour, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Mix  the  butter  and 
the  flour  together  into  a  paste,  put  this  into  a 
saucepan  with  the  vinegar  and  water,  stir  for 
a  few  minutes,  then  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  the 
four  eggs.  Whisk  until  the  mixture  thickens  or 
binds,  but  on  no  account  allow  it  to  boil.  When 
ready  to  serve  add  the  strained  juice  of  half  a 
lemon.  Green  Dutch  sauce  is  made  by  adding  a 
little  spinach  greening,  just  sufficient  to  give  it 
a  sage  green  tint. 


THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES  59 

Dutch  Sauce  (Hollandaise  Sauce)  No.  2:  Be- 
quired:  3  yolks  of  eggs,  2  oz.  butter,  1  gill 
bechamel  sauce,  1  gill  stock,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  salt  and  pepper. 

Boil  up  the  sauce,  remove  to  the  side  of  the 
stove  and  whisk  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  add  the 
stock  (fish,  chicken,  rabbit  or  veal),  mix  thor- 
oughly and  add  the  butter  gradually,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt  and  the  lemon-juice.  Pass 
through  a  tammy  and  use.  Before  adding  the 
butter  the  sauce  should  be  sufficiently  heated  to 
bind  the  eggs.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to 
prevent  curdling.  Another  way  to  make  this 
sauce  is  to  omit  the  bechamel,  and  to  use  4  yolks 
of  eggs  to  %  a  gill  of  stock,  which  is  finished 
with  4  oz.  of  butter.  The  first  is  the  most  con- 
venient and  most  popular  way.  This  sauce,  when 
finished,  is  to  be  just  hot,  and  on  no  account  must 
it  be  allowed  to  reach  the  boiling  point. 

NOTE:  A  less  expensive  Hollandaise  sauce 
can  be  made  by  adding  a  small  quantity  of 
bechamel  or  other  good  white  sauce  to  the  above. 

Hollandaise  Sauce  (No.  3)  (Inexpensive) :  Take 
2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar,  1  shallot,  peeled  and 
chopped,  1  bayleaf,  6  white  peppercorns  crushed, 
1  gill  white  sauce,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  1  teaspoonful 
lemon  juice,  2  ozs.  butter,  and  salt  to  taste. 

Put  the  vinegar  (French  wine  vinegar  in  pref- 
erence to  malt  vinegar)  with  the  shallot,  bayleaf 
and  peppercorns,  in  a  saucepan,  and  reduce  to 
half  its  original  quantity;  add  the  white  sauce, 
let  it  boil,  remove  the  bayleaf  and  stir  in  the 
yolks  of  eggs.  When  it  begins  to  thicken,  remove 
from  the  fire  and  strain  into  another  saucepan. 
Ke-heat,  taking  great  care  that  the  sauce  does 
not  curdle,  and  whisk  in  the  butter  by  degrees; 
lastly  add  the  lemon  juice  and  enough  salt  to 
taste.  Serve  with  boiled  fish,  artichokes,  aspara- 
gus, etc. 

Hollandaise  Sauce  (No.  4) :  Put  into  a  jar  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  4  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  mignonette  pepper,  a  peeled  and 
chopped  shallot,  a  teaspoonful  each  of  tarragon 
and  chilli  vinegar.  Put  the  jar  into  a  stewpan 


60  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

containing  boiling  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire 
till  it  thickens.  Then  strain  and  serve. 

Hollandaise  Sauce  (No.  5):  Put  one  sliced 
onion,  six  peppercorns,  a  bayleaf,  into  a  saucepan 
with  2  ounces  of  fresh  butter;  stir  over  the  fire 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  then  add  a  level 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  fry  a  little  without  brown- 
ing, and  stir  in  gradually  %  of  a  pint  of  white 
stock,  season  with  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and 
salt,  stir  until  boiling,  cook  slowly  for  10  minutes, 
then  add  the  yolks  of  3  eggs  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  stir  until  it  thickens,  but  do  not 
let  it  boil  again,  then  strain  and  serve. 

Green  Dutch  Sauce  (Sauce  Hollandaise  Verte) : 
Mix  Hollandaise  or  Dutch  sauce  with  sufficient 
young  parsley  leaves,  boiled,  drained,  pounded, 
and  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  to  impart  a 
green  tint.  Blend  well,  reheat  and  serve  hot. 

Holstein  Sauce:  Prepare  a  white  sauce  of  the 
Bechamel  type,  reduce  it  well  with  fish  stock  and 
white  wine,  then  thicken  with  a  liaison  of  egg 
yolks,  and  flavor  with  lemon  juice  and  very 
little  nutmeg.  Serve  hot. 

Horly  (or  Orly)  Sauce:  Blend  Suprene  or 
other  rich  white  sauce  with  tomato  puree  and 
meat  extract  or  liquefied  meat  glaze,  and  finish 
by  whisking  in  fresh  butter.  Serve  hot. 

Horseradish  Sauce:  Grate  a  stick  of  washed 
and  scraped  horseradish,  and  put  it  in  a  basin 
with  a  little  lemon  juice.  Rub  the  yolks  of  two 
hard  boiled  eggs  through  a  sieve,  and  mix  with 
about  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream;  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard  and  half  a  gill  of  vinegar;  stir  till  well 
blended,  then  stir  in  the  prepared  horseradish, 
and  the  sauce  will  be  ready  for  serving  after 
standing  for  about  two  hours. 

Horseradish  Sauce  (No.  2):  Grate  finely  a 
stick  of  washed  and  scraped  horseradish.  Whip 
up  half  a  pint  of  thick  cream,  and  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chilli  vinegar  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
French  or  English  mustard.  Stir  in  the  grated 
horseradish,  mix  thoroughly,  and  serve. 

Horseradish  Sauce  (No.  3):     Grate  finely  two 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  61 

tablespoonfuls  of  horseradish  after  it  has  been 
well  washed  and  scraped,  then  pound  it  in  a 
mortar,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar.  Mix  it  gradually  with 
a  gill  of  cream,  then  stir  into  it  quickly  half  a 
gill  of  vinegar,  next  add  a  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  or  Nepaul 
pepper. 

Horse-radish  Sauce,  hot  (Sauce  Raifort, 
Chaude) :  2  tablespoonfuls  grated  horse-radish, 
y2  pint  bechamel,  %  teaspoonful  castor  sugar, 
pinch  cayenne  and  salt,  %  teaspoonful  vinegar. 

Moisten  the  horse-radish  with  the  vinegar, 
mix  with  the  sauce,  and  boil  up  whilst  stirring. 
Add  the  sugar  and  cayenne,  allow  it  to  simmer 
a  few  minutes,  taking  great  care  that  the  sauce 
does  not  curdle;  if  found  too  thick,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  cream  or  milk.  Served  with  hot  roast 
beef,  etc. 

Horse-radish  Cream,  cold  (Creme  de  Raifort, 
froide):  iy2  oz.  grated  horse-radish,  1  gill  thick 
cream,  1  tablespoonful  white  wine  vinegar,  1 
teaspoonful  castor  sugar,  %  teaspoonful  powdered 
mustard,  %  saltspoonful  salt,  a  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Put  the  horse-radish  in  a  basin,  add  the  sugar, 
mustard,  salt,  and  cayenne;  moisten  with  the 
vinegar.  Stir  in  gradually  the  cream,  and  whisk 
gently  for  a  few  minutes.  Serve  in  a  sauce- 
boat  with  cold  roast  beef,  etc. 

Horse-radish  Sauce,  Iced  (Sauce  Raifort  frap^ 
pee) :  1  stick  horse-radish,  1  gill  cream  or  milk, 
1  teaspoonful  mixed  mustard,  1  teaspoonful  cas- 
tor sugar,  2  teaspoonfuls  vinegar. 

Grate  the  horse-radish  as  finely  as  possible, 
put  it  in  a  basin,  stir  in  the  cream  or  milk,  the 
vinegar,  mustard,  and  the.  sugar.  Stir  well  and 
pour  into  a  sauce-boat. 

When  milk  is  used,  a  tablespoonful  of  con- 
densed Swiss  milk  should  be  mixed  with  the 
fresh  milk,  and  the  sugar  should  then  be  omitted. 

Freeze  till  a  semi-liquid  consistency,  serve 
with  trout  or  other  fish. 

Boar's  Head  Sauce  (Sauce  Hure  de  Sanglier): 
Prepare  a  sauce  with  Seville  orange  juice,  and 
the  finely-chopped  rind,  castor  sugar,  red-currant 


62  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

jelly,  port  wine,  and  prepared  mustard,  in  due 
proportions,  then  season  with  salt  and  black 
pepper.  Mix  well  and  serve  cold.  This  sauce 
is  also  useful  for  almost  every  kind  of  cold 
meat,  and  will  keep  for  some  time  if  bottled. 

Indian  Curry  Sauce  (Sauce  Indienne) :  Ee- 
quired: 1%  oz.  butter,  y2  oz.  flour,  y2  small 
onion,  1  tablespoonful  curry -powder,  %  pint  good 
fish  stock,  salt,  1  tomato,  a  few  savory  herbs, 
y2  glass  sherry  or  Marsala. 

Melt  the  butter,  add  the  onion,  finely  chopped; 
when  of  a  nice  light  brown  stir  in  the  flour  and 
curry-powder,  blend  well,  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes; pour  in  gradually  the  fish  stock,  add  the 
tomato,  cut  into  slices,  and  the  herbs;  bring  it 
to  the  boil  whilst  stirring,  then  add  the  wine, 
season  to  taste,  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  strain 
and  serve. 

Italian  Sauce  (Sauce  Italienne):  Eequired: 
y2  pint  Espagnole  sauce,  4  small  shallots,  8  pre- 
served mushrooms,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  1  bay-leaf, 
1  tablespoonful  sweet  oil,  1  glass  Chablis  or 
Sauterne,  %  gill  stock. 

Peel  the  shallots,  chop  them  finely,  place  in 
the  corner  of  a  clean  cloth,  hold  tightly  wrapped 
up  under  cold  water,  then  squeeze  out  the  water, 
and  put  them  in  a  small  stewpan  with  the  oil, 
stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  to  blend 
but  not  to  color.  Add  the  wine,  the  mushrooms 
(finely  chopped),  herbs,  and  the  stock,  let  it 
reduce  well,  and  add  the  espagnole.  Boil  for  ten 
minutes,  take  out  the  herbs,  free  it  from  the  oil, 
and  keep  hot  in  the  bain-marie  until  required. 

Joinville  Sauce:  Eequired:  1  oz.  flour,  % 
gill  fish  stock,  %  pint  white  stock,  3  oz.  butter, 
3  yolks  of  eggs,  lobster  coral,  lemon-juice,  salt, 
and  cayenne. 

Melt  1  oz.  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  stir  in  the 
flour,  and  cook  a  little  without  browning.  Add 
gradually  the  fish  and  white  stock,  stir  until  it 
boils,  and  let  simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Pound 
the  lobster  coral  in  a  mortar  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  fresh  butter,  rub  through  a  sieve 
and  stir  into  the  sauce.  Stir  in  the  egg-yolks 
one  at  a  time.  Season  to  taste  with  a  pinch  of 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  63 

cayenne,  salt  and  lemon-juice.  Whisk  well  over 
a  slow  fire,  or  in  a  bain-marie.  Do  not  let  the 
sauce  boil  up  again.  Pass  through  a  fine-pointed 
strainer  or  napkin,  and  serve  as  directed. 

Joinville  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Knead  an  ounce  of 
butter  with  an  ounce  of  sifted  flour  in  a  stewpan, 
put  it  in  the  hot  stove  and  stir  for  a  few  min- 
utes, so  as  to  cook  the  flour  (be  careful  not  to 
let  the  flour  get  brown).  Add  the  liquor  from 
the  fillets,  and  about  half  a  pint  of  white  stock, 
stir  until  it  boils,  and  let  simmer  for  about  10 
minutes.  Kemove  the  scum,  stir  in  2  more 
ounces  of  butter  and  2  yolks  of  eggs.  Season 
with  white  pepper  and  salt,  add  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice  and  sufficient  lobster-spawn  to  give 
the  sauce  a  pinkish  tint,  but  do  not  on  any  ac- 
count let  the  sauce  boil  again.  Stir  it  long 
enough  over  the  fire  so  as  to  bind  the  liaison. 
Pass  the  sauce  through  a  fine  strainer  or  tammy 
cloth,  and  use  same  as  directed. 

Jus  (Brown  Gravy):  Eequired:  2  oz.  beef 
suet  or  1  oz.  dripping,  2  Ib.  trimmings  of  meat, 
1  onion,  1  carrot,  %  head  celery,  2  cloves,  1 
blade  mace,  6  peppercorns,  bouquet  of  herbs,  2 
quarts  water. 

Put  the  beef  suet  or  dripping  in  a  stewpan, 
add  a  sliced  onion  and  carrot,  fry  till  brown, 
put  in  the  beef  trimmings  or  other  meat,  and 
any  bones  of  meat  or  carcass  of  poultry.  Let  it 
bake  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  take  up, 
pour  off  the  fat,  and  moisten  with  the  water. 
Add  the  celery,  cloves,  mace,  peppercorns,  and 
bouquet  of  herbs.  Let  the  whole  simmer  gently 
for  several  hours,  take  off  fat  and  scum,  and 
strain.  Season  with  salt  as  required.  A  few 
drops  of  caramel  may  be  added  if  the  gravy  is 
not  sufficiently  brown. 

Karl  Sauce:  This  is  a  mild  kind  of  curry 
sauce  composed  of  white  sauce  flavored  with 
curry  and  cream. 

Lemon  Sauce  (Sauce  au  Citron):  Melt  an 
ounce  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  stir  in  half-ounce 
flour  and  half -ounce  of  cornflour;  cook  a  little 
without  browning,  and  gradually  stir  in  half- 
pint  milk;  add  the  thin  rind  of  half  a  lemon; 


64  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

cook  whilst  stirring  for  ten  minutes.  Dilute 
with  a  little  stock  (and  this  may  be  fish,  vegeta- 
ble, meat  or  chicken  stock,  according  to  the 
dish  with  which  it  is  served),  adding  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  at  the  same  time.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  cook  for  another  five  minutes. 

NOTE:  The  yolk  of  an  egg  and  a  little  cream 
may,  if  liked,  be  added  to  this  sauce. 

Livournaise  Sauce:  This  is  a  cold  salad  sauce 
of  the  Vinaigrette  type,  prepared  with  pounded 
anchovy  fillets,  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  sweet 
oil,  vinegar,  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and  nut- 
meg. All  ingredients  must  be  used  in  due  propor- 
tions and  be  well  blended  before  the  sauce  is 
served. 

Lobster  Sauce  (Sauce  Homard) :  Take  half  a 
pint  of  bechamel  sauce,  add  to  it  two  heaped-up 
tablespoonfuls  of  finely  chopped  lobster,  includ- 
ing a  little  coral  or  spawn  ;  mix,  and  heat  up 
carefully  whilst  stirring;  season  with  a  pinch  of 
cayenne  or  paprika  pepper,  and  serve  when  hot. 

Lobster  Sauce  (No.  2):  Slit  a  small  hen  lob- 
ster, take  out  the  coral,  and  crack  the  claws, 
then  remove  all  the  flesh  and  cut  it  into  very 
small  pieces  or  dice.  Pound  the  coral  in  a  mortar 
with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  rub  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Melt  in  a  stewpan  1  ounce  of  butter 
and  add  about  %  of  an  ounce  of  flour,  blend  all 
well  together,  then  add  a  gill  of  water  and  a  gill 
of  milk,  and  stir  this  mixture  over  the  fire  until 
it  boils  and  thickens;  cook  it  for  about  ten  min- 
utes, then  strain  and  reheat,  now  add  a  little 
cream,  and  stir  well  until  it  boils  again,  then 
whisk  in,  by  degrees,  whilst  off  the  fire,  the  coral 
butter,  stir  till  it  is  quite  smooth,  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  put  in  the 
chopped  lobster  last  of  all  to  the  sauce,  mix  well, 
and  finish  with  a  little  lemon  juice. 

Lyonnaise  Sauce:  Mix  a  well  made  tomato 
sauce  with  finely  cut  small  shreds  of  Spanish 
onions  (previously  fried  in  butter);  finish  the 
sauce  with  a  little  liquefied  meat  glaze  and  lemon 
juice  and  serve  hot. 

Madeira  Sauce  (Madere  Sauce):  Proceed  the 
same  as  for  Demi-glace,  Add  one  glass  of  sherry 


THE  BOOK  OF   SAUCES  65 

or  Marsala;  reduce  a  little  longer  than  the 
above,  and  finish  with  a  little  meat  glaze. 

Maintenon  Sauce:  Blend  about  a  gill  of  white 
onion  puree  (Soubise  type)  with  two  or  three 
egg-yolks  and  half  a  pint  of  hot  Veloutee  sauce; 
reheat,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  white  pep- 
per, and  serve  hot. 

Maintenon  Sauce:  No.  2.  This  sauce  is  espe- 
cially adapted  for  so-called  gratin  dishes,  and 
must  therefore  be  well  reduced  to  the  correct 
consistency.  1  pint  Bechamel  sauce,  4  yolks  of 
eggs,  1  tablespoonful  Parmesan  cheese,  1  table- 
spoonful  cooked  onion  puree,  garlic,  paprika 
pepper,  nutmeg. 

Boil  the  Bechamel  sauce  for  about  fifteen  min- 
utes, stirring  continually;  add  to  it  the  yolks  of 
eggs,  Parmesan  cheese,  cooked  onion  puree  (Sou- 
bise), a  suspicion  of  garlic,  just  enough  to  im- 
part the  aroma,  a  pinch  of  paprika  pepper,  and 
a  little  grated  nutmeg  (salt  if  needed).  Stir  till 
it  thickens,  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  and  use 
as  required. 

Parsley  or  Fine  Herb  Sauce  (Maitre  d' Hot  el 
Sauce) :  y2  pint  Bechamel  or  Veloute  sauce,  3 
oz.  butter,  %  lemon,  1  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  seasoning. 

Put  the  sauce  into  a  stewpan,  add  a  little 
water,  stir  until  it  boils,  and  reduce  well.  Whisk 
in  the  butter  a  little  at  a  time,  and  rub  through 
a  tammy  cloth  or  fine  hair  sieve.  Return  to  the 
stewpan,  add  the  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt. 

Maitre  d' Hotel  Sauce  (No.  2):  Warm  up  1 
pint  of  bechamel  sauce,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful 
of  finely  chopped  parsley,  a  few  chervil  and 
tarragon  leaves,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice;  work  up  with  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter, 
and  serve  hot. 

Malaga  Sauce:  Take  some  good  brown  sauce, 
enrich  it  with  liquefied  meat  glaze,  then  blend 
it  with  port  wine  and  lemon  juice,  reduce  well, 
season  with  cayenne  and  flavor  with  finely 
chopped  and  previously  fried  shallots.  Serve  hot. 

Maltaise  Sauce:  Dilute  and  reduce  finely 
chopped  parsley,  shallots  and  mushrooms  with 


66  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

sherry,  and  blend  with  Veloutee  or  Allemande 
sauce,  then  flavor  with  lemon  juice  and  add 
finely  shredded  orange  rind. 

Marchand  de  Vin  Sauce  (Wine  Mercliant 
Sauce):  Peel  and  chop  finely  3  shallots,  toss 
these,  i.  e.  blend  in  a  stewpan  containing  half 
an  ounce  of  butter,  then  pour  in  a  gill  of  claret, 
cover,  and  reduce  a  little.  Next  add  half  a  pint 
of  Demi-glace  or  Espagnole  sauce,  a  small  piece 
of  meat  glaze,  and  enough  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Boil  up  whilst  stirring,  skim,  and  let 
simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Lastly  stir  in  half  a 
pat  of  fresh  butter,  and  about  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice.  This  sauce  is  usually  served  with 
grilled  steak  or  fillets  of  beef. 

Marguery  Sauce:  Take  some  white  fish  sauce 
(of  the  Mornay  type),  blend  it  with  oyster 
puree,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  white  pep- 
per, and  finish  with  a  little  double  cream. 

Marinade  Sauce:  Cut  a  large  carrot  and  two 
peeled  onions  in  slices,  and  fry  these  vegetables 
in  oil  with  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  clove 
of  garlic,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  two  chopped  shal- 
lots, and  a  little  crushed  pepper.  When  they  are 
fried  without  taking  a  brown  color,  moisten  with 
a  mixture  of  vinegar  and  water,  adding  a  little 
salt.  Allow  to  simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
strain  and  repeat  with  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce. 

Marinade  Sauce  No.  2:  %  pint  stock,  y2  gill 
vinegar,  1  tablespoonful  flour,  1  oz.  butter,  1 
small  carrot,  3  shallots,  thyme,  1  clove,  parsley, 
bayleaf,  chives,  flour. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the  sliced 
carrot,  sliced  shallots,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  the 
clove.  Fry  a  little,  then  add  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  some  chives,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes.  Moisten  with  the  vinegar  and  stock, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Allow  to  simmer 
for  half  an  hour,  strain  or  pass  through  a  tam- 
my cloth,  and  serve  as  required  for  releves,  roast 
or  braised  game,  etc. 

Mariniere  Sauce:  Mix  some  white  wine  sauce 
with  finely  chopped  herbs  and  shallots  previously 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  67 

blended  in  butter,  and  enrich  with  a  little  fish 
essence. 

Matelote  Sauce:  %  pint  of  espagnole  sauce, 
1  oz.  butter,  ^  gill  Burgundy  wine,  ^  gill  fish 
stock,  liquor  or  fumet,  %  onion,  y2  carrot,  ^  gill 
mushroom  liquor. 

Peel  the  onion  and  carrot  and  mince  very  fine, 
fry  in  a  little  butter  a  nice  color,  drain  off  the 
butter,  moisten  with  the  wine  and  mushroom 
liquor,  let  this  reduce  well,  then  add  the  fish 
stock  or  liquor  and  the  espagnole.  Let  simmer 
for  ten  minutes;  then  strain  through  a  fine 
strainer  or  cloth,  add  a  small  piece  of  butter, 
season,  if  necessary,  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice,  salt  and  pepper,  and  keep  hot. 

NOTE:  When  Espagnole  is  not  handy,  sub- 
stitute for  it  %  oz.  of  flour,  %  oz.  of  butter, 
well  blended  (fried  to  a  chestnut  brown),  and 
diluted  with  %  pint  of  rich  brown  stock;  boil 
well,  skim,  season,  and  strain. 

Matelote  Blanche  Sauce:  Blend  a  white  sauce 
with  mushroom  liquor,  white  wine,  and  finely 
chopped  peeled  button  mushrooms  previously 
blended  in  butter.  Cook  well.  Strain,  reheat, 
and  add  chopped  oysters  flavored  with  chopped 
savory  herbs  and  very  little  anchovy  essence. 

Matelote  Brune  Sauce:  Blend  a  red  wine 
sauce  (Genoise,  or  Merchant  de  Vin)  with  finely 
chopped  fried  button  onions  and  button  mush- 
rooms, used  in  due  proportion;  flavor  with 
chopped  savory  herbs  and  very  little  anchovy 
essence. 

Marseillaise  Sauce:  y2  Ib.  ripe  tomatoes,  % 
carrot,  1  small  onion,  1  oz.  raw  ham,  2  oz.  butter, 
1  oz.  flour,  1  bay-leaf,  1  pint  chicken-stock,  1  oz. 
bacon  (fat),  and  salt,  pepper  to  taste. 

Remove  the  stems  of  the  tomatoes,  cut  them  in 
halves,  crossways,  take  out  the  pips  and  mash 
up,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  stock 
and  vegetables;  the  latter  should  be  washed, 
peeled,  and  cut  into  slices.  Cook  slowly  until 
tender.  Cut  up  the  bacon  and  ham,  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  1  oz.  of  butter,  stir  over  the  fire 
for  five  minutes;  add  the  flour,  and  cook  long 
enough  to  blend  the  flour  (do  not  let  it  get 


68  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

brown) ;  now  add  the  tomato  puree,  the  bay -leaf, 
the  stock,  and  the  chicken.  Allow  to  cook  to- 
gether slowly  for  twenty  minutes.  Season  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  pinch  of  aromatic  seasoning. 
Pass  through  a  tammy  cloth  or  hair  sieve,  heat 
up  again,  and  whisk  in  the  rest  of  the  butter. 
Maximilian  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Tartare  sauce 
and  blend  it  with  sufficient  tomato  pulp  or  puree 
to  give  it  a  reddish  tint,  then  add  sufficient  finely 
chopped  tarragon  leaves  to  flavor.  Serve  cold. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce:  2  yolks  of  eggs,  1  tea- 
spoonful  of  French  mustard,  %  teaspoonful  salt, 
a  pinch  of  pepper,  1  tablespoonful  of  tarragon 
vinegar,  about  %  pint  best  salad  oil,  and  1 
tablespoonful  of  cream. 

Put  the  yolks  into  a  basin,  add  the  mustard 
(raw,  not  mixed),  salt  and  pepper;  stir  quickly 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding,  drop  by  drop  at 
first  and  gradually  more,  the  salad  oil,  and  at 
intervals  a  few  drops  of  vinegar;  the  vinegar 
is  added  when  the  sauce  appears  too  thick.  By 
stirring  well,  the  mixture  should  become  the 
consistency  of  very  thick  cream.  At  last  add 
the  raw  cream,  stirring  all  the  while.  A  little 
cold  water  may  be  added  if  found  too  thick. 
In  hot  weather  the  basin  in  which  the  mayon- 
naise is  made  should  be  placed  in  a  vessel  of 
crushed  ice. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce  (No.  2):  Put  two  yolks  of 
eggs  into  a  clean  basin,  add  a  heaped  up  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon, 
adding  little  by  little  (drop  by  drop)  one  and  a 
half  gills  of  best  salad  oil,  and  at  intervals  a 
tablespoonful  of  French  wine  vinegar.  Continue 
to  stir  vigorously  till  the  mixture  acquires  a 
creamy  substance,  then  add  another  tablespoon- 
ful of  vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  mustard, 
and  lastly  a  few  drops  of  chilli  vinegar,  and  use 
as  required. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce  (No.  3):  Break  the  yolks 
of  2  eggs  into  a  mixing  basin,  add  a  pinch  of 
castor  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
saltspoonful  of  mustard.  Stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  smooth,  then  add  drop  by  drop  half  a 
pint  of  good  olive  oil,  stirring  briskly  all  the 


THE  BOOK  OF   SAUCES 

time.  Great  care  must  be  taken  in  adding  the 
oil,  otherwise  it  will  curdle.  Then  add  a  dessert- 
spoonful each  of  tarragon  and  chilli  vinegar,  and 
finally  2  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped  cream. 

Mayonnaise  Sauce  tomatee:  To  a  pint  of  well 
prepared  and  fairly  stiff  mayonnaise  add  half  as 
much  tomato  puree  or  cold  tomato  sauce.  Mix 
gradually,  and  season  to  taste. 

Medicis  Sauce:  Blend  a  nicely  prepared 
Bearnaise  sauce  with  tomato  puree  previously 
diluted  and  reduced  with  a  little  red  wine.  Serve 
hot. 

Melted  Butter  Sauce:  1  oz.  fresh  butter,  % 
oz.  flour,  and  %  pint  cold  water. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  when  melted 
stir  in  the  flour  (sifted).  Cook  for  a  few  mo- 
ments whilst  stirring,  add  gradually  *£  pint  of 
cold  water,  continue  to  stir  till  the  sauce  boils, 
and  allow  to  cook  for  at  least  ten  minutes.  Add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  strain  if  necessary. 

Mint  Sauce  (Sauce  a  la  Menthe):  2  table- 
spoonfuls  finely  chopped  green  mint,  1  dessert- 
spoonful brown  sugar,  3  to  4  tablespoonfuls 
vinegar. 

Put  the  mint  into  a  basin,  add  the  sugar  and 
pour  over  a  little  warm  water,  sufficient  to  dis- 
solve the  sugar,  cover  and  let  cool,  then  add  the 
vinegar,  stir  well,  and  pour  into  a  sauce-boat. 

Mint  Sauce  (No.  2):  Wash  a  small  bunch  of 
green  mint  in  cold  water,  then  strip  off  the 
leaves  from  the  stems,  and  chop  them  finely. 
Put  them  in  a  small  basin,  with  iy2  gills  of  good 
vinegar  and  a  little  moist  sugar;  stir  well,  and 
serve  when  required.  The  correct  proportion  of 
mint  and  sugar  to  the  above  quantity  of  vinegar 
is  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  mint  and  one 
small  dessertspoonful  of  moist  or  Demerara 
sugar. 

Mint  Sauce  (No.  3) :  Wash  and  drain  a  small 
bunch  of  green  mint,  sprinkle  over  it  a  good 
pinch  of  salt,  chop  it  finely,  and  add  to  every 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  mint  one  tablespoonful 
of  water,  one  of  white  wine  vinegar,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar.  Mix  well  and  serve. 

NOTE:  A  pinch  of  borax  added  to  this  sauce 
is  considered  by  some  cooks  an  improvement. 


70  THE  BOOK  OF   SAUCES 

Mirabeau  Sauce:  1  gill  espagnole  sauce,  1% 
gill  fish  stock,  y%  small  onion,  %  small  carrot, 
^4  gill  Burgundy  wine,  *4  gill  mushroom  liquor, 
iy2  oz.  fresh  butter,  chopped  tarragon,  chervil, 
and  parsley. 

Prepare  the  fish  stock  from  the  bones  and 
trimmings  from  fresh  fish.  Peel  the  onion,  scrape 
the  carrot,  and  mince  both;  fry  them  in  a  little 
butter  to  a  nice  color,  drain  off  the  butter,  add 
the  wine,  cover  and  let  boil  quickly  for  a  few 
minutes.  Add  the  mushroom  liquor  and  the 
stock,  reduce  to  about  half  the  original  quantity, 
then  stir  in  the  espagnole  sauce,  and  let  simmer 
for  about  five  minutes.  Strain  into  a  clean 
saucepan,  add  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  about 
a  teaspoonful  (in  all)  of  chopped  parsley,  tar- 
ragon, and  chervil,  also  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice  and  seasoning  if  found  necessary.  Whisk 
over  the  fire  until  thoroughly  hot  (not  boiling), 
and  use  as  directed. 

Miroton  Sauce:  Blend  some  Demi-glace  sauce 
with  finely  minced,  blanched  and  fried  onions, 
and  tomato  sauce,  add  vinegar  and  mustard  to 
taste,  reduce  well,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  serve  hot. 

Mornay  Sauce:  Eequired:  %  pint  Bechamel 
sauce,  y<2  gill  mushroom  or  Italienne  sauce,  % 
gill  cream,  %  oz.  meat  glaze  or  2  tablespoonfuls 
half -glaze  of  chicken  stock,  %  oz.  grated  Parme- 
san cheese,  and  1  oz.  fresh  butter. 

Put  the  Bechamel  sauce  into  a  saucepan,  re- 
duce it  well,  then  add  the  Italian  or  mushroom 
sauce.  Let  it  boil  up,  skim  well,  and  add  the 
cream.  Place  the  stewpan  in  a  vessel  of  boiling 
water,  stir  the  sauce  with  a  whisk,  adding  the 
grated  cheese,  butter,  and  meat  glaze;  work  in 
these  ingredients  little  by  little,  and  stir  or 
whisk  till  the  sauce  has  acquired  a  creamy  tex- 
ture. Do  not  allow  the  sauce  to  boil  again. 
This  r  auce  is  usually  served  with  fish — in  which 
case  i<  little  fish  essence  should  also  be  incorpo- 
rated before  serving. 

Mousseline  Sauce  (White):  Eequired:  %  gill 
cream,  4  yolks  of  eggs,  3  crushed  long  pepper- 
corns, 1  oz.  butter,  salt,  nutmeg,  lemon-juice. 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  71 

Put  the  cream,  egg-yolks,  and  pepper  in  a 
stewpan,  place  this  in  a  bain-marie  half  filled 
with  boiling  water,  beat  up  with  a  whisk  for  a 
little  time,  then  add  gradually  little  pieces  of 
butter,  stirring  all  the  while,  but  do  not  add  any 
more  butter  until  each  piece  has  been  thoroughly 
worked  in  and  is  absorbed  in  the  sauce.  The 
sauce  when  finished  will  have  the  appearance  of 
a  frothy  cream,  and  should  then  be  passed 
through  a  tammy  cloth.  Just  before  serving  fin- 
ish off  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch 
of  salt,  and  a  grate  of  nutmeg  should  be  added 
during  the  process  of  whisking.  Served  with 
souffle,  fillets  of  veal  or  fowl,  asparagus  or  arti- 
chokes. 

Mousseline  Sauce  Verte  (Green  Mousseline 
Sauce,  cold) :  Kequired :  1  gill  mayonnaise,  % 
gill  cold  Bechamel  sauce,  1  tablespoonful  of 
pickled  parsley,  a  few  sprigs  each  of  tarragon, 
chervil,  and  burnet,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  cooked 
spinach,  2  hard-boiled  yolks  of  eggs,  2  anchovy 
fillets,  and  ^  gill  of  cream. 

Wash  and  pick  the  green  herbs,  steep  them 
in  boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes,  drain  well, 
pound  in  a  mortar  with  the  spinach,  and  rub 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Pound  the  yolks  of  eggs 
and  anchovy  fillets,  mix  with  the  green  puree, 
add  the  cream,  and  rub  the  whole  through  a 
sieve.  Dilute  with  mayonnaise  and  BSchamel 
sauce,  add  a  little  seasoning  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  mixed  mustard. 

Mustard  Sauce  (Sauce  Moutarde)  (for  grilled 
or  boiled  Herrings  or  Mackerel) :  1  oz.  butter, 
%  oz.  patent  cornflour,  *4  oz.  flour,  1  dessert- 
spoonful of  English  mustard,  ^  gill  vinegar, 
%  pint  fish  stock,  y2  gill  cream,  pepper  and  salt 
to  taste. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  stir  in 
the  cornflour  and  flour,  and  blend  over  the  fire 
without  browning.  Add  the  fish  stock  and  bring 
it  to  the  boil,  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Mix  the 
mustard  with  enough  vinegar  to  make  a  smooth 
paste,  stir  this  into  the  sauce  with  the  cream, 
boil  up  again.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  add  a  little  more  vinegar  just  before 
serving. 


72  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Mussel  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Moules) :  Mix  some 
Hollandaise  or  Dutch  sauce  with  cooked  mussels 
cut  into  small  dice,  season  to  taste  and  serve  hot. 

Nantua  Sauce:  Heat  up  1%  gills  of  Bechamel 
sauce,  and  stir  in  %  gill  of  cream,  then  finish 
with  y2  oz.  of  crayfish  butter.  Crayfish  tails  may 
if  liked  be  mixed  with  this  sauce  just  before 
serving. 

Nigoise  Sauce:  Blend  some  Demi-glace  sauce 
with  a  small  quantity  of  concentrated  Italian 
tomato  puree,  season  to  taste  and  serve  hot. 

Nonpareille  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Hollandaise  or 
Dutch  sauce,  and  incorporate  some  crayfish  or 
lobster  butter,  then  add  finely  chopped  lobster 
meat,  preserved  mushrooms  (champignons),  hard- 
boiled  whites  of  eggs,  and  truffles,  all  in  due  pro- 
portions and  finely  chopped.  Serve  hot. 

Normande  Sauce:  2~y2  oz.  butter,  1  oz.  flour, 
white  stock,  fish  liquor,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
lemon-juice. 

Melt  1%  oz.  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour,  stir  long  enough  to  cook  the  flour,  moisten 
with  about  a  pint  of  white  stock  and  a  little 
fish  liquor.  Allow  to  boil  for  ten  minutes,  skim 
well,  and  finish  with  a  liaison  of  2  yolks  of  eggs. 
Stir  in  gradually  the  remainder  of  the  fresh 
butter,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  Whisk 
well  and  pass  the  sauce  through  a  fine  strainer 
or  tammy  cloth. 

Norvegienne  Sauce:  Prepare  a  cold  sauce  of 
the  Mayonnaise  type  with  hard-boiled  egg  yolks 
previously  passed  through  a  sieve,  yolks  of  fresh 
eggs,  salt,  pepper,  made  mustard,  oil  and  vine- 
gar, then  mix  in  some  finely  chopped  savory 
herbs.  Serve  cold. 

Noisette  Sauce  (Nut  Sauce):  Take  some  Hol- 
landaise or  Dutch  sauce  and  blend  it  with  pre- 
viously baked,  pounded  and  sieved  hazel  nuts. 
Finish  the  sauce  by  whisking  in  a  little  cream. 

Egg  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Oeuf s) :  To  a  pint  of 
white  sauce  (Bechamel  or  Melted  Butter)  add 
1  to  2  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  up  small.  Season 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  hot. 

Egg  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  oeufs  durs):  Boil  an 
egg  for  ten  minutes,  place  it  in  cold  water 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  73 

and  remove  the  shell.  Separate  the  yolk  from 
the  white  and  chop  each  finely.  Mix  with  half 
a  pint  of  white  sauce  or  bechamel,  previously 
heated,  season  to  taste,  heat  up. 

Onion  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Oignons):  2  onions, 
1  oz.  butter,  ^  oz.  flour,  %  pint  milk,  nutmeg. 

Peel  the  onions,  cut  them  in  halves  and  blanch 
them,  drain  and  cook  in  salted  water  till  tender, 
drain  again  and  chop  finely.  Melt  the  butter  in 
a  saucepan,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  a  little  and  add 
gradually  the  milk;  stir  till  it  boils  and  put  in 
the  chopped  onions,  season  with  pepper  and  a 
grate  of  nutmeg,  and  cook  for  10  minutes  longer. 

NOTE:  When  brown  onion  sauce  is  required, 
mince  the  onions  and  fry  a  light  brown  color  in 
butter,  drain  off  the  butter  and  add  half  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce,  cook  for  15  minutes. 

Onion  Sauce  (No.  2):  Take  some  white  sauce 
in  which  a  due  proportion  of  finely  chopped 
boiled  onions  have  been  cooked;  season  with  salt, 
nutmeg  and  pepper.  Served  with  boiled  rabbit 
or  boiled  or  baked  mutton. 

For  brown  onion  sauce,  the  onions  are  first 
fried  in  butter  and  then  cooked  in  Demi-glace 
or  Poivrade  sauce. 

Olive  Sauce:  Make  a  good  brown  sauce,  mix 
it  with  stoned  or  turned  French  olives,  season  to 
taste  and  flavor  with  a  little  lemon  juice.  Serve 
hot. 

Orange  Sauce  (Sauce  a  rOrange):  2  peeled 
shallots,  1  orange,  lemon-juice,  2  ozs.  raw  ham, 
cayenne  to  taste,  2  glasses  port  wine,  and  1  gill 
of  meat  gravy. 

Chop  the  shallots  and  put  them  into  a  small 
stewpan  with  the  rind  of  the  orange,  quite  free 
from  the  white  or  pith,  and  a  little  chopped  lean 
of  raw  ham  and  cayenne  pepper;  moisten  with 
the  port  wine,  and  a  little  meat  gravy;  set  the 
essence  to  simmer  gently  on  the  fire  for  about 
ten  minutes,  then  add  the  juice  of  the  orange 
with  a  little  lemon-juice,  and  pass  it  through  a 
silk  sieve. 

Orange  Sauce  (No.  2):  (For  wild  duck,  wild 
fowl,  widgeon,  teal,  etc.)  Mix  half  a  gill  of  rich 
brown  sauce  with  a  gill  of  meat  gravy,  to  this 


74  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

add  the  strained  juice  of  an  orange,  and  boil  up; 
skim,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Shred 
finely  the  rind  of  half  an  orange,  and  put  it  into 
the  sauce,  boil  up  again,  and  serve. 

NOTE:  If  liked,  a  small,  finely  chopped  shal- 
lot and  half  a  glass  of  port  wine  or  claret  can 
be  added  and  cooked  with  the  above  sauce. 
This  is  considered  an  improvement. 

Jus  <T Orange  Sauce:  %  pint  Espagnole  sauce, 
y2  pint  good  stock  or  gravy,  1  orange,  lemon- 
juice,  and  1  teaspoonful  red-currant  jelly. 

Peel  the  orange  thinly,  and  cut  the  peel  into 
Julienne  strips,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
sufficient  water  to  cover,  boil  for  five  minutes, 
and  drain  on  a  sieve.  Put  in  a  stewpan,  the 
Espagnole  sauce,  stock  or  roast  meat  gravy,  and 
half  the  juice  of  the  orange.  Allow  all  to  reduce 
to  half  its  quantity,  strain,  and  add  the  orange- 
peel,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon-juice,  the  red-cur- 
rant jelly,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  boil  up 
again,  and  serve  with  roast  wild  duck,  wild  boar 
or  other  game. 

Sorrel  Sauce  (Oseille  Sauce) :  Prepare  a  thin 
gravy  sauce  or  use  Demi-glace  sauce;  to  which 
add  finely  chopped  and  blanched  sorrel  leaves. 
This  sauce  is  usually  served  with  braised  or 
boiled  fowls,  etc. 

Oyster  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Huitres):  Eequired: 
12  oysters,  1  oz.  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon- juice,  1  yolk  of  egg,  and  %  of  a  pint  of 
bechamel  sauce. 

Open  the  oysters,  remove  the  beards  and  put 
them,  with  their  liquor,  in  a  small  saucepan, 
with  the  butter.  Cover  with  the  lid,  and  cook 
for  four  minutes  (they  must  not  be  allowed  to 
boil).  Put  the  oysters  on  a  sieve,  cut  them  in 
halves  or  quarters,  allow  the  liquid  to  reduce  to 
half  its  original  quantity.  Strain,  return  to  the 
saucepan,  add  the  bechamel  sauce;  when  hot 
bind  with  the  yolk  of  egg,  then  put  in  the 
oysters  and  lemon-juice.  Stir  till  quite  hot,  but 
do  not  let  it  boil.  Season  to  taste  and  serve. 

Oyster  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  Huitres):  Reduce 
half  a  pint  of  Bechamel  sauce  with  the  strained 
liquor  of  six  sauce  oysters.  Beard  the  oysters 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  75 

and  cut  them  into  quarters,  or  smaller,  if  liked; 
boil  for  a  few  seconds  only,  then  season  with  a 
few  drops  of  lemon-juice  and  additional  salt  and 
pepper,  if  found  necessary. 

Oyster  sauce  forms  an  excellent  adjunct  with, 
boiled  fish — especially  so  with  turbot  and  cod, 
also  with  boiled  poultry,  such  as  fowl  or  turkey. 

Paprika  Sauce:  This  consists  of  Veloutee  or 
Allemande  sauce  highly  seasoned  with  paprika, 
which  is  Eed  Hungarian  pepper. 

Parisienne  Sauce:  This  is  a  rich  brown  sauce 
flavored  with  previously  blended  chopped  shal- 
lots to  which  add  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  a 
little  lemon  juice  and  some  liquefied  meat  glaze, 
then  finish  by  whisking  in  a  little  fresh  butter. 
Serve  with  entrecotes,  steaks  or  fillets  of  beef. 

Parsley  Sauce  (Sauce  Persil) :  Prepare  half  a 
pint  of  Bechamel  or  other  white  sauce,  to  this 
add  1  dessertspoonful  of  finely  chopped  and 
washed  parsley  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice. 

Pekoe  Sauce:  Mix  2  ounces  of  butter  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  English  mustard  into  a  paste,  then 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  Worcestershire  sauce.  Put  this  into  a  stew- 
pan  and  let  it  gradually  get  hot.  This  sauce  is 
excellent  with  red  mullet. 

Persillade  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Vinaigrette  sauce 
in  the  usual  manner  with  olive  oil,  vinegar,  salt, 
pepper,  lemon  juice  and  made  mustard,  then  stir 
in  some  finely  chopped  parsley  and  green  savory 
herbs.  This  sauce  is  usually  served  cold  with 
fish,  vegetables,  or  as  a  salad  dressing. 

Perigueux  Sauce  (Truffle  Sauce) :  1  gill  brown 
sauce,  1  gill  tomato  sauce,  1  glass  sherry,  1 
teaspoonful  anchovy  essence,  1  oz.  butter,  3 
truffles. 

Chop  finely  three  large  truffles,  put  them  in  a 
small  stewpan  with  the  sherry,  reduce  to  one- 
half  (covered);  add  the  brown  and  tomato  sauce; 
boil  for  a  few  minutes,  finish  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  anchovy  essence  and  the  butter. 

Piment  Sauce:  Take  some  Demi-glace  sauee 
and  blend  it  with  tomato  puree,  to  which  add 
some  finely  chopped  pimento  or  sweet  pepper 
and  season  sparingly  with  cayenne.  Serve  hot.- 


76  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

Piquante  Sauce  (Sharp  Sauce) :  %  onion  or  4 
shallots,  3  gherkins  (chopped),  1  tablespoonful 
chopped  capers,  1  gill  vinegar,  x/2  teaspoonful 
anchovy  essence,  1  bay-leaf,  1  sprig  of  thyme, 
and  %  pint  espagnole  sauce. 

Peel  and  chop  the  onion  or  shallots,  put  them 
in  a  stewpan  with  the  vinegar,  bay-leaf,  and 
thyme,  cover,  and  reduce  to  half  the  quantity 
of  liquor.  Strain  into  another  stewpan,  add 
the  chopped  gherkins  and  capers,  moisten  with 
the  sauce,  add  the  anchovy  essence,  boil  a  few 
minutes,  and  serve. 

Piquante  Sauce  (Another  Method):  Chop  sep- 
arately four  shallots,  three  pickled  gherkins,  a 
tablespoonful  of  piccalilly,  and  a  dessertspoon- 
ful of  French  capers.  Put  in  a  stewpan  with  a 
bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  gill  of  French 
wine  vinegar;  cover  the  stewpan  and  let  reduce 
to  half  the  quantity.  Kemove  the  herbs,  dilute 
with  a  pint  of  Espagnole  sauce,  season  with 
pepper,  boil  up  and  skim. 

Piquante  Sauce  (No.  3):  Take  half  a  small 
onion  or  2  shallots,  2  chopped  gherkins,  1  table- 
spoonful  chopped  capers,  1  gill  vinegar,  1  bay- 
leaf,  1  sprig  of  thyme,  and  %  pint  Espagnole  or 
brown  sauce. 

Peel  and  chop  finely  the  onion  or  shallots, 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  vinegar,  bay- 
leaf,  and  thyme,  cover  and  reduce  to  half  the 
quantity  of  liquor.  Strain  into  another  stewpan. 

Piquante  Tartare  Sauce.  Eequired:  1  gill  of 
olive  oil,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  1  tablespoonful  of 
gherkins,  1  tablespoonful  of  French  vinegar,  1 
tablespoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  1  teaspoon- 
ful of  made  mustard,  1  teaspoonful  of  anchovy 
essence,  salt  and  cayenne. 

Put  the  yolks  of  egg  in  a  mixing  bowl,  place 
this  if  possible  on  ice  or  in  very  cold  water,  next 
add  the  oil  drop  by  drop,  stirring  or  whisking 
always  in  the  same  direction,  until  the  eggs  be- 
come thick,  then  add  vinegar  to  taste  and  other 
ingredients.  The  gherkins  should  be  chopped 
finely  and  added  separately  to  the  anchovy  es- 
sence; all  this  must  be  carefully  mixed  together. 
Keep  in  a  cool  place  until  needed. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  77 

Poivrade  Sauce  (Pepper  Sauce):  %  pint  of 
Espagnole  sauce,  ^  oz.  of  butter,  y%  small  car- 
rot, %  small  onion,  18  peppercorns.  1  bay-leaf, 
1  sprig  thyme,  2  cloves,  and  ^  oz.  of  raw  barn 
or  bacon. 

Mince  the  onion  and  carrot,  cut  the  ham.  or 
bacon  into  small  pieces;  fry  the  above  in  the 
butter  for  three  minutes,  add  the  peppercorns 
(crushed)  herbs,  etc.,  skim  off  the  fat,  moisten 
with  the  sauce,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes  or 
longer;  skim,  season,  strain,  and  serve  as 
required. 

Polish  Sauce  (Polonaise  Sauce) :  Take  %  pint 
of  Veloutee  sauce  and  blend  it  with  a  little  sour 
cream,  some  finely  grated  horseradish,  and  finely 
chopped  fennel,  and  flavor  with  lemon  juice. 
Serve  hot. 

Pompadour  Sauce:  2  oz.  butter,  ^  pint  vel- 
outee  or  allemande  sauce,  1  shallot,  6  preserved 
mushrooms,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  ^4  gill  cream,  1 
teaspoonful  chopped  parsley,  pepper,  salt  and  a 
grate  of  nutmeg. 

Peel  and  chop  the  shallot,  and  mince  finely 
the  mushrooms.  Blend  the  shallot  in  an  ounce 
of  butter,  but  do  not  let  it  take  color;  put  in 
the  mushrooms  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  all 
moisture  is  absorbed,  then  add  the  sauce,  stir 
until  it  boils,  skim  well,  and  let  it  cook  a  few 
minutes.  Beat  up  the  yolks  of  eggs  with  the 
cream  and  parsley,  stir  into  the  sauce  and  sea- 
son with  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  nutmeg;  fin- 
ish with  the  remaining  ounce  of  butter,  but  do 
not  let  it  boil  again.  Keep  in  the  bain-marie 
until  required  for  serving. 

Pauvre  Homme  Sauce  (Poor  Man's  Sauce): 
Prepare  a  plain  brown  sauce,  to  which  add  suffi- 
cient tomato  ketchup  and  anchovy  fish  essence 
to  flavor.  Suitable  as  a  fish  sauce  to  be  served 
hot. 

Portugaise  Sauce:  Reduce  about  a  pint  of 
tomato  sauce  with  a  gill  of  rich  veal  gravy, 
flavor  it  with  finely  chopped  onion,  blanched  and 
fried  in  butter,  with  a  little  crushed  garlic. 

Poulette  Sauce:  Melt  an  ounce  of  butter  and 
stir  in  %  ounce  of  flour,  cook  for  a  few  minutes 


78  THE   BOOK   OP   SAUCES 

without  browning  the  flour,  then  stir  in  1  pint 
of  white  stock,  stir  till  it  boils,  and  cook  for  at 
least  15  minutes,  thicken  with  2  yolks  of  eggs, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  finish  with  half 
an  ounce  of  fresh  butter. 

Prince  of  Wales  Sauce  (Prince  de  Galles 
Sauce):  This  is  a  cold  sauce  prepared  with 
chopped  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  yolks  of 
raw  eggs,  olive  oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  mixed  with 
finely  chopped  savory  herbs,  and  prepared  French 
mustard.  It  is  usually  served  with  grilled  or 
fried  fish,  or  grilled  meats  a  la  Tartare. 

Princesse  Sauce  (Hot  Sauce  for  Fried  Chicken, 
etc.):  l1/^  gill  of  Bechamel  or  veloutee  sauce, 
2  tablespoonfuls  French  wine  vinegar,  1  oz. 
fresh  butter,  1  lemon,  1  teaspoonful  of  grated 
horse-radish,  nutmeg,  8  pepper-corns  and  pars- 
ley. 

Put  the  grated  rind  of  the  lemon  and  the  horse- 
radish in  a  small  stewpan  with  the  French  wine 
vinegar,  add  a  little  grated  nutmeg  and  the 
crushed  white  peppercorns,  boil  for  several  min- 
utes, then  add  the  Bechamel  or  veloutee  sauce. 
Cook  for  ten  minutes,  and  pass  through  a  fine 
sieve  or  tammy.  He-heat,  season  with  salt  and 
more  pepper,  if  needed,  work  in  by  means  of  a 
whisk  the  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  finely 
chopped  parsley,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of 
fixture  of  poultry,  fish  or  meat. 

Provengale  Sauce:  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  each 
of  finely  chopped  preserved  mushrooms  and 
peeled  shallots,  two  cloves  of  crushed  garlic,  and 
a  small  bunch  of  sweet  savory  herbs  into  a  sauce- 
pan, and  pour  over  a  gill  of  olive  oil;  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  steadily  with  the  lid 
on,  shaking  or  stirring  frequently,  and  then  add 
1  pint  of  brown  sauce  (Espagnole)  and  a  wine- 
glassful  of  white  wine.  Simmer  for  about  half 
an  hour,  then  take  out  the  bunch  of  herbs,  and 
serve. 

Demi-Provencale  Sauce:  This  is  practically  the 
same  as  the  above,  omitting  the  mushrooms,  shal- 
lot, herbs  and  wine,  and  adding  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  castor  sugar.  Strain  the  sauce  before 
serving.  \ 


THE   BOOK   OP   SAUCES  79 

Ravigote  Sauce,  Chaud  (Hot  Ravigote  Sauce) : 
Take  some  hot  Bechamel  sauce,  and  blend  it  with 
finely  chopped,  green,  savory  herbs,  previously 
reduced  with  white  wine  vinegar,  then  finish  the 
sauce  with  a  liaison  of  butter  and  cream,  season 
to  taste,  and  serve. 

Ravigote  Sauce,  Froid  (Cold  Ravigote  Sauce) : 
Take  some  Mayonnaise  sauce,  mix  it  with  suffi- 
cient finely  chopped  parsley,  chives,  chervil,  tar- 
ragon, and  peeled  shallots,  then  stir  in  a  little 
spinach  greening  to  give  it  the  necessary  color. 

Ref  orme  Sauce  (for  Cutlets  a  la  Re"f orme) : 
1  gill  poivrade  sauce,  1  small  glass  port  wine, 
1  teaspoonful  red-currant  jelly. 

This  sauce  consists  of  poivrade  sauce  mixed 
with  port  wine  and  red-currant  jelly.  Boil  well 
for  ten  minutes,  and  strain.  The  usual  Reform 
garnish,  consisting  of  Julienne  strips  of  gher- 
kins, mushrooms,  truffles,  hard-boiled  white  of 
egg  and  cooked  ox-tongue,  is  served  at  the  same 
time. 

Regence  Sauce  (Regent  Sauce) :  Blend  %  pint 
of  Demi-glace  sauce  with  %  pint  of  thin  gravy 
sauce,  and  reduce  both  with  a  little  white  wine 
and  truffle  essence,  then  flavor  with  finely  minced 
and  butter  blended  onions. 

Remoulade  Sauce:  y2  pint  salad  oil,  2  table- 
spoonfuls  tarragon  vinegar,  1  teaspoonful  made 
mustard,  tarragon,  parsley,  burnet,  chives,  1 
yolk  of  egg,  castor  sugar. 

Blanch  a  few  leaves  of  tarragon,  parsley,  bur- 
net,  and  chives,  drain  and  chop  finely.  Put  in 
a  basin  the  yolk  of  egg  with  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  work  in 
gradually  half  a  pint  of  salad  oil,  and  at  inter- 
vals a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar.  About 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  is  required  to 
half  a  pint  of  oil.  When  the  sauce  is  finished 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  a  pinch  of 
castor  sugar,  and  the  chopped  herbs. 

Remoulade  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Blanch  a  few  leaves 
of  tarragon,  fennel,  parsley,  burnet,  and  chives; 
drain  the  herbs,  and  chop  them  very  finely.  Put 
in  a  basin  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  with  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste;  stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon. 


80  THE  BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

Work  in  gradually  half  a  pint  of  salad  oil,  and 
at  intervals  a  few  drops  of  tarragon  vinegar. 
About  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  are  required 
to  half  a  pint  of  oil.  When  the  sauce  is  finished, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  a  pinch  of 
castor  sugar,  and  the  chopped  herbs. 

Eicardo  Sauce:  Prepare  a  fumet  from  the 
carcase  of  game,  to  which  add  finely  minced 
fried  onions  and  toasted  bread,  and  blend  with 
rich  brown  sauce,  strain,  flavor  with  sherry,  and 
finish  with  a  little  liquefied  meat  glaze. 

Eiche  Sauce:  This  is  Hollandaise  enriched 
with  lobster  butter  or  spawn,  to  which  small  dice 
shapes  of  truffle  and  crayfish  tails  are  added  just 
before  serving. 

Eichelieu  Sauce:  This  is  a  rich  brown  game 
sauce,  reduced  with  Madeira  or  Marsala  wine, 
then  work  in  a  little  liquefied  meat  extract  and 
some  finely  chopped  truffles. 

Eobert  Sauce:  %  small  onion,  %  oz.  butter, 
y%  teaspoonful  castor  sugar,  y2  pint  Espagnole 
sauce,  %  glass -white  wine,  and  saltspoonful  dry 
mustard. 

Peel  and  mince  the  onion,  fry  it  in  the  butter 
a  nut  brown,  add  the  mustard,  moisten  with  the 
wine,  and  reduce  a  little.  Stir  in  the  Espagnole 
and  cook  for  ten  minutes;  season  it  to  taste, 
and  strain. 

Eoman  Sauce  (Eomaine  Sauce):  Take  a  pint 
of  Espagnole  sauce,  heat  it  up,  and  mix  with  a 
small  quantity  of  each,  cleaned  currants,  sul- 
tanas and  Italian  pine  seeds,  then  reduce  with  a 
little  white  wine  vinegar;  press  all  through  a 
sieve,  reheat,  season  and  serve. 

Eoyal  Sauce:  Put  an  ounce  of  butter  into  a 
stewpan,  when  melted  stir  into  it  a  heaped  up 
dessertspoonful  of  flour,  add  gradually  y2  pint  of 
fish  stock,  stir  till  it  boils,  and  let  simmer  for 
about  10  minutes.  Strain,  reheat,  and  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  cream,  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy 
essence,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  "Pan  Yan" 
sauce.  Season  to  taste,  reheat  without  boiling, 
and  serve  with  boiled  turbot  or  salmon. 

Eouennaise    Sauce:      2    shallots,    bay -leaf,    a 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  81 

sprig  of  thyme,  1  glass  claret,  1  pint  demi-glace 
sauce,  and  2  or  3  ducks'  livers. 

Infuse  the  finely  chopped  shallots,  bay-leaf, 
and  a  sprig  of  thyme  in  the  glass  of  claret. 
Add  the  demi-glace  sauce  and  the  finely  chopped 
ducks'  livers,  and  let  reduce,  season  to  taste, 
and  strain. 

Russian  Sauce  (Sauce  Russa):  Chop  finely  2 
oz.  of  lean  ham,  4  peeled  shallots,  and  fry  in  but- 
ter (about  ~y%  oz.)  for  a  few  seconds,  then  add 
a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine;  cover,  and  let  reduce  to  about  half 
the  quantity.  To  this  add  about  a  pint  of  vel- 
outee  or  allemande  sauce,  and  allow  to  cook 
gently  for  ten  minutes.  Remove  the  herbs,  and 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  finely  grated  horse-rad- 
ish, season  with  cayenne  and  nutmeg,  and  pass 
through  a  seive  or  tammy  cloth.  Re-heat,  stir 
in  a  pat  of  fresh  butter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
liquified  meat  glaze.  This  sauce  is  excellent 
with  grilled  fish  or  fillets  of  beef. 

Cold  Salmon  Sauce:  Take  4  ounces  of  butter, 
one  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chilli  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful  of 
cold  water,  a  grate  of  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of 
salt.  Put  all  into  a  mixing  basin  to  warm  and 
stir  or  whisk  till  quite  smooth,  then  stir  in  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  mix  well,  and  serve  when  quite 
cold. 

Salmi,  or  Salmy  Sauce:  Required:  1  teaspoon- 
ful red-currant  jelly,  %  pint  Espagnole  sauce, 

1  gill  of  game  stock,  carcass  of  cooked  game, 

2  shallots,   1  bay-leaf,   a   sprig  of  thyme,   some 
mushroom  trimmings,  1  glass  port  wine,  1  table- 
spoonful   sweet    oil. 

Peel  and  chop  finely  the  shallots,  fry  in  oil  a 
golden  color,  add  the  bay-leaf,  thyme  and  mush- 
room trimmings,  chop  up  the  carcass  of  game, 
and  fry  a  little  in  fat  or  butter,  drain,  and  put 
with  the  above  preparation,  add  the  port  wine, 
cover  the  stewpan,  and  cook  them  for  five  min- 
utes. Moisten  with  the  stock  and  sauce.  Stir 
well  and  let  simmer  for  ten  minutes.  Skim  well, 
strain  or  tammy,  season  to  taste,  add  the  red 
currant  jelly,  heat  up  and  serve. 


82  THE  BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

Seville  Sauce:  Reduce  some  Demi-glace  sauce 
with  strained  orange  juice  and  add  the  finely 
chopped  rind  of  a  Seville  orange.  This  sauce  is 
usually  served  with  roast  or  braised  ducks  or 
game. 

Sharp  Sauce:  Peel  and  chop  a  small  onion. 
Heat  up  in  a  saucepan  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salad 
oil  and  fry  in  it  the  onion  to  a  golden  color, 
then  add  an  ounce  of  flour  and  let  brown  nicely; 
next  put  in  1  teaspoonful  of  crushed  pepper- 
corns, 3  preserved  mushrooms  and  a  tomato 
(cut  up  small);  add  gradually  a  pint  of  stock, 
and  stir  until  the  mixture  boils,  then  add  2 
tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  few  savory 
herbs.  Simmer  at  least  15  minutes  longer,  then 
strain;  re-heat,  skim,  season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  pepper,  including  a  tiny  pinch  of  cayenne, 
and  serve  hot. 

Shrimp  Sauce  (Sauce  aux  crevettes):  %  pint 
white  fish  sauce,  }4  pint  picked  shrimps,  vinegar, 
1  teaspoonful  anchovy  essence,  1  small  blade  of 
mace,  1  bay-leaf. 

Boil  the  shells  and  heads  of  the  shrimps  in 
enough  vinegar  to  cover;  to  this  add  a  small 
blade  of  mace  and  a  bay-leaf.  Strain  the  liquor 
into  the  sauce,  add  the  picked  shrimps,  and  boil 
up.  Finish  with  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  es- 
sence, and  serve  with  boiled  or  grilled  fish. 

Shrimp  Sauce  (No.  2):  Take  1  pint  of  milk, 
1%  ozs.  of  butter,  1  oz.  flour,  %  pint  of  shrimps. 

Pick  the  shrimps,  and  put  the  skins  into  the 
milk,  allow  this  to  boil,  and  then  strain.  Melt 
the  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  a  little  and  add 
the  milk  gradually;  keep  stirring  till  it  boils  and 
cook  for  ten  minutes.  Add  the  shrimps  just 
before  serving,  and  if  liked  a  few  drops  of 
essence  of  anchovy. 

Sicilienne  Sauce:  Eeduce  some  Espagnole 
sauce  with  Marsala  or  Sherry,  season  sparingly 
with  cayenne  pepper;  add  some  thinly  cut  rings 
of  onions  fried  in  butter  just  before  serving. 

Soubise  Sauce:  2  onions,  1  gill  white  stock,  % 
pint  Bechamel  sauce,  white  pepper,  salt,  a  pinch 
sugar. 

Peel  the  onions,  parboil  in  salted  water,  strain, 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  83 

drain,  and  chop  very  finely.  Return  to  the  stew- 
pan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  all  moisture 
is  absorbed,  then  add  the  stock  and  cook  till 
tender.  Now  add  the  sauce  and  reduce  to  the 
desired  consistency,  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  pinch  of  castor  sugar. 

Soubise  Sauce  No.  3:  Peel,  slice  and  blanch 
3  onions,  then  cook  them  in  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
half  an  ounce  or.  butter,  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
a  bunch  of  herbs,  thyme,  parsley  and  bayleaf, 
and  half  a  pint  of  wine  sauce.  Boil  slowly  for 
about  20  minutes,  then  remove  the  herbs,  and 
pass  the  onions  and  sauce  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Reheat  the  sauce  in  a  bain-marie,  and  stir  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  just  before  serving. 

Soubise  Tomato  Sauce:  Peel  and  slice  a  large 
Spanish  onion,  and  cook  it  in  white  stock  or  sea- 
soned water  until  tender,  and  the  liquid  has 
nearly  evaporated,  then  rub  all  through  a  fine 
sieve.  Add  one-half  the  quantity  of  hot  cream, 
and  an  equal  quantity  of  hot  tomato  sauce;  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Eeheat  the 
sauce,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again. 

Soyer  Sauce:  Prepare  a  white  fish  sauce  or 
Bechamel  "Maigre,"  and  flavor  it  with  finely 
chopped  savory  herbs,  butter  blended  shallots  and 
lemon  juice.  Finish  the  sauce  with  a  liaison  of 
egg  yolks  and  cream. 

Spadacini  Sauce  Required:  1  gill  white  wine, 
y2  gill  vinegar,  2  shallots,  a  few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, 2  sprigs  of  basil,  1  teaspoonful  crushed  mig- 
nonette pepper,  1  tablespoonful  white  sauce — 
Bechamel  or  allemande,  1  tablespoonful  tomato 
sauce,  1  small  terrine  foie-gras  (about  3  oz.) 
freed  from  fat,  1  yolk  of  egg,  1  oz.  butter,  and 
2  pinches  of  cayenne. 

Put  the  wine,  vinegar,  shallot  (chopped  finely) 
herbs,  and  peppercorns  in  a  stewpan,  cover,  and 
reduce  to  one  half  of  its  original  quantity.  Add 
the  two  kinds  of  sauces,  boil  up,  and  pass 
through  the  tammy.  Pound  the  foie-gras  in  a 
mortar,  add  the  yolk  of  egg  and  the  butter.  Rub 
this  through  a  sieve  and  incorporate,  in  small 
quantities,  with  the  sauce.  Whisk  the  sauce 
en  bain-marie  whilst  this  is  being  done.  Season 


84  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

with  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  and  use  as  directed.  The 
sauce  must  not  be  allowed  to  boil,  and  when 
finished  should  be  similar  in  consistency  to 
Bearnaise. 

Stragotte  Sauce:  This  is  a  rich  brown  game 
sauce  with  the  addition  of  tomato  pulp  and 
madeira  wine,  flavored  with  celery  puree  and 
parsley  roots,  shallots,  cloves  and  mace.  This 
sauce  is  generally  served  with  Italian  dishes. 

Supreme  Sauce:  1  oz.  butter,  1  oz.  flour,  1  pint 
chicken  stock,  1  small  onion,  1  clove,  %  bay- 
leaf,  3  oz.  fresh  butter,  1  tablespoonful  cream, 
1  yolk  of  egg,  %  lemon. 

Make  a  white  roux  with  the  butter  and  flour, 
and  dilute  with  the  chicken  stock.  Boil  up,  add 
the  onion,  clove,  half  bay-leaf,  and  let  it  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Skim  well,  and  work  in 
the  butter,  cream,  yolk  of  egg,  and  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon.  Whisk  well,  and  pass  through 
a  tammy  cloth. 

Supreme  Sauce  (No.  2):  Put  an  ounce  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan;  when  melted,  stir  in  an 
ounce  of  flour;  allow  it  to  cook  a  little.  Add 
gradually  a  pint  of  well  seasoned  chicken  stock, 
stir  until  it  boils,  and  allow  to  simmer  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Take  off  the  scum,  add  a  gill  of  cream, 
a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  pinch  of  salt, 
and  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg.  Pass  through  a 
tammy  cloth  or  napkin,  return  to  a  clean  stew- 
pan,  and  finish  with  half  an  ounce  of  fresh  but 
ter  and  a  little  chicken  essence  or  veal  glaze. 

Swedish  Sauce  (Sauce  Suedoise — Hot) :  Make 
a  Bechamel  or  other  white  sauce,  flavor  it 
with  grated  horse-radish  and  chilli  vinegar, 
and  serve  with  roast  poultry  or  grilled  meats. 

Swedish  Sauce  (Cold):  1  gill  mayonnaise, 
14  gill  cream,  1  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard, 
and  2  tablespoonfuls  finely  grated  horse-radish. 

Whip  the  cream,  stir  in  gradually  the  may- 
onnaise, grated  horse-radish,  and  mustard;  add 
a  pinch  of  castor  sugar,  and  a  little  salt  if 
needed. 

This  sauce  is  especially  suitable  for  salads 
and  served  with  roast  game,  etc. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  85 

Tartare  Sauce:  2  yolks  of  eggs,  cayenne,  mus- 
tard, 1  pint  salad  oil,  V±  gill  tarragon  vinegar, 
Bechamel  or  veloutee  sauce,  2  tablespoonfuls 
chopped  gherkins,  1  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
capers,  1  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  % 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  tarragon  and  chervil  finely 
chopped. 

Put  the  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  basin,  place  it  in 
a  shallow  pan  containing  some  crushed  ice,  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  good  pinch  of  white 
pepper,  a  pinch  of  cayenne,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  mustard;  stir  well  together,  and  add,  gradu- 
ally, the  salad  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar.  When 
the  sauce  is  smooth  and  creamy  stir  in  a  good 
tablespoonful  of  cold  Bechamel  or  veloutee  sauce, 
add  the  gherkins,  capers,  parsley,  tarragon,  and 
chervil.  Do  not  mix  the  gherkins,  capers,  etc., 
until  the  sauce  is  finished,  as  it  is  likely  to  cause 
the  sauce  to  turn  if  put  in  too  soon.  A  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice  may  be  added  if  the  sauce 
is  found  too  thick. 

Texas  Sauce  (Sauce  Texienne):  Prepare  a 
curry  sauce,  mix  it  with  a  very  little  saffron  and 
finely  chopped  parsley,  flavor  with  lemon  juice, 
and  finish  with  a  liaison  of  fresh  butter  and 
cream. 

Tomato  Sauce  (Sauce  Tomate) :  1%  pint  stock, 
1  oz.  streaky  bacon,  1  oz.  butter,  1  small  onion 
finely  chopped,  1  Ib.  tomatoes,  1  oz.  flour,  pepper- 
corns, herbs,  parsley,  1  oz.  fresh  butter,  castor 
sugar. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  the  butter  and  onion,  fry 
a  little,  and  add  the  tomatoes  cut  into  slices. 
Stir  over  the  fire  a  little  longer,  then  add  the 
flour  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold  stock 
or  gravy.  Stir  the  stock  in  gradually,  add  a 
few  peppercorns,  a  few  sprigs  of  savory  herbs 
and  parsley,  and  allow  all  to  simmer  for  half  an 
hour.  Eemove  the  herbs,  rub  the  sauce  through 
a  sieve,  return  to  the  stewpan,  season  with  salt, 
a  pinch  of  castor  sugar  and  pepper,  whisk  the 
butter,  and  serve  as  required.  A  tablespoonful 
of  cream  can  be  used  instead  of  butter,  but  the 
sauce  should  not  be  allowed  to  boil  again  after 
the  butter  or  cream  has  been  added. 


86  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

Tomato  Sauce  (No.  2):  Cut  half  a  pound  of 
ripe  tomatoes  into  slices,  also  half  a  small  peeled 
onion,  and  cook  them  for  about  20  minutes  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar,  a  few  peppercorns, 
half  a  bayleaf  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Rub  through  a  sieve  or  strainer,  and  add  a  pint 
of  brown  stock.  Fry  in  an  ounce  of  butter  % 
ounce  of  flour,  and  stir  until  well  browned,  then 
pour  in  gradually  whilst  stirring,  the  hot  tomato 
liquid.  Boil  up,  skim,  and  let  simmer  for  about 
15  minutes,  then  serve. 

Tomato  Cream  Sauce  (Sauce  Creme  a  la  To- 
mate):  2  oz.  butter,  1  large  tomato,  1  bay-leaf, 
6  peppercorns. 

Cut  up  the  tomato,  put  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
bay-leaf,  salt,  and  peppercorns,  reduce  to  half, 
add  a  piece  of  butter,  and  when  drawn  pass 
through  a  tammy.  Eeturn  to  a  small  stewpan, 
and  work  in  remainder  of  the  butter.  Do  not 
put  near  too  hot  a  place  or  else  it  will  go  oily. 

Tortue  Sauce  (Turtle  Sauce) :  Prepare  a  rich 
brown  sauce,  using  turtle  stock  as  a  basis,  and 
blend  with  finely  chopped  shallots,  a  little 
anchovy  paste  or  essence,  lemon  juice  and  sherry, 
reduce  and  add  finely  chopped  or  grated  lemon 
rind,  season  with  very  little  cayenne  pepper,  and 
serve. 

Valentine  Sauce:  This  sauce  is  prepared  in 
the  same  way  as  Suedoise  Sauce,  adding  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  substituting 
the  French  mustard  with  half  that  quantity  of 
English  mustard. 

Valoise  Sauce:  Chop  finely  3  to  4  peeled 
shallots,  and  reduce  with  a  glass  of  white  wine, 
then  add  some  meat  extract  or  liquefied  meat 
glaze,  work  in  2  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  3  to  4 
egg  yolks,  and  last  of  all  a  liaison  of  cream. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  add 
some  finely  chopped  parsley,  also  about  a  table- 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce.  Whisk  in  a 
bainmarie  pan  until  quite  warm,  then  serve. 

Veloutee  Sauce  (Velvet  Sauce):  1  oz.  flour, 
2  oz.  butter,  1  pint  of  veal  stock,  %  gill  mush- 
room liquor,  %  gill  of  cream,  1  small  bouquet 
garni,  6  peppercorns,  salt,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  87 

Cook  the  flour  with  an  ounce  of  butter  to- 
gether without  browning,  stir  in  the  stock  and 
mushroom  liquor,  add  the  bouquet  and  crushed 
peppercorns,  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  stir 
frequently,  and  skim.  Pass  through  a  sieve  or 
tammy  keep  on  the  side  of  the  stove,  put  a  few 
tiny  pieces  of  butter  on  top  to  keep  from  form- 
ing a  skin.  Just  before  using  it  add  the  cream. 
Stir  well  and  let  it  get  thoroughly  hot  without 
boiling,  season  with  salt  if  necessary,  a  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  and  about  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  The  sauce  is  now  ready  for  use,  and  will 
serve  as  a  foundation  for  any  white  sauce  or 
as  a  veloutee  by  itself.  The  cream  may  be 
omitted  if  used  as  a  foundation  sauce. 

Venison  Sauce:  Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a 
pint  of  good  brown  sauce,  a  dessertspoonful  of 
red  currant  jelly,  half  a  glass  of  port  wine  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Boil  up  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Next  add  a  dessertspoon- 
ful of  meat  glaze,  boil  up  again,  then  skim, 
strain  and  serve. 

Venitienne  Sauce:  %  pint  allemande  or  Be"- 
chamel  sauce,  1  oz.  lobster  butter,  1  dessert- 
spoonful meat  glaze,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
pepper,  nutmeg,  and  salt,  1  teaspoonful  finely 
chopped  tarragon  leaves. 

Heat  up  the  sauce,  stir  in  the  lobster  butter 
and  meat  glaze  when  required  for  serving,  add 
lemon  juice,  sufficient  pepper,  grated  nutmeg, 
and  salt  to  taste,  and,  last  of  all,  the  chopped 
tarragon. 

Vert-Pre  Sauce  (Green  Herb  Sauce) :  2  shallots, 
3  oz.  butter,  2  large  tablespoonfuls  white-wine 
vinegar,  y2  pint  veloutee  (see  above)  or  alle- 
mande sauce,  a  small  handful  spinach,  6  sprigs 
of  parsley,  2  to  3  sprigs  chives,  3  sprigs  tarra- 
gon, very  little  chervil,  salt  and  pepper. 

Peel  and  chop  finely  the  shallots,  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  the  vinegar  and  1  oz.  of  butter, 
cover  with  the  lid  of  the  stewpan,  and  allow  to 
reduce  to  about  half  its  original  quantity.  Now 
add  the  white  sauce  (veloutee  for  preference) 
and  let  simmer  for  a  few  minutes.  Wash,  pick, 
and  blanch  (parboil)  the  spinach  and  remainder 


88  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

of  herbs;  drain  and  cool,  press  out  all  the  water, 
and  pound  in  a  mortar  with  about  1  oz.  of  but- 
ter. Eub  this  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  it 
with  the  sauce  as  above  prepared.  Whisk  in 
the  remainder  of  the  butter,  season  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Verte  glacee  Sauce  (Iced  Green  Sauce) :  1  me- 
dium-sized cucumber,  a  few  sprigs  chervil  and 
tarragon  (blanched),  spinach  greening,  1  dessert- 
spoonful Orleans  vinegar,  1  gill  aspic,  1  gill 
cream,  1%  gill  mayonnaise,  a  pinch  of  castor 
sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Peel  thinly  the  cucumber,  cut  it  in  half,  re- 
move the  seed  portion,  then  slice,  and  cook  in 
slightly  salted  water  till  tender.  Strain  off  the 
water  and  rub  the  cucumber  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Chop  finely  the  herbs,  and  add  this  and  the  vine- 
gar, with  a  little  spinach  greening,  to  the  cu- 
cumber puree.  Whisk  the  cream  a  little,  and  stir 
in  the  above  when  sufficiently  cool.  Incorporate 
by  degrees  the  mayonnaise  and  the  aspic  jelly 
(previously  dissolved,  but  not  hot).  Stir  over 
the  ice  with  a  whisk  for  a  few  minutes,  season 
to  taste,  and  fill  up  an  oblong  biscuit-tin;  seal 
it  with  paper  and  lid,  and  place  it  in  a  charged 
ice-cave  for  1%  hour.  To  serve,  unmold  as 
usual,  cut  the  shape  into  neat  slices  or  cubes, 
and  serve  with  grilled  fish  or  meat,  etc. 

Villeroi  Sauce:  Prepare  a  Bechamel  or  other 
rich  white  sauce,  and  mix  it  with  finely  chopped 
cooked  ham  or  tongue  or  both,  and  finish  with  a 
liaison  of  yolks  of  eggs  and  fresh  butter  or 
cream. 

Vin  Blanc  Sauce  (White  Wine  Sauce) :  %  pint 
white  stock,  %  gill  chablis  or  sauterne,  %  oz. 
flour,  2  oz.  butter,  2  yolks  of  eggs,  y2  lemon, 
salt,  white  pepper,  some  fish  liquor  if  the  sauce 
be  used  for  fish. 

Melt  1  oz.  butter,  stir  in  the  flour,  cook  a  little, 
dilute  with  seasoned  stock,  fish  liquor,  and  wine; 
boil  up  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes.  Add  gradu- 
ally the  remainder  of  the  butter  bit  by  bit,  also 
the  yolks  of  egg,  one  at  a  time,  season  with  a 
little  salt,  a  pinch  of  mignonette  or  white  pepper, 
and  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Strain 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  89 

through  a  tammy  cloth,  and  use  as  sauce  for 
dressed  fish,  etc.  Mostly  served  with  soles, 
salmon,  trout,  and  whiting. 

White  Wine  Sauce  (Sauce  au  Vin  blanc) :  Put 
2  ounces  of  butter  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
parsley,  a  small  peeled,  sliced  and  blanched  onion, 
one  or  two  preserved  mushrooms  (champignons), 
previously  tossed  in  a  little  lemon  juice,  all 
finely  minced;  toss  them  in  a  stewpan  well  over 
the  fire,  but  do  not  let  them  get  brown,  add  an 
ounce  of  flour,  add  a  pint  of  stock  and  a  glass  of 
chablis  or  sauterne;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
mace;  boil  up,  skim  and  simmer  gently  for  about 
half  an  hour,  skim,  strain  and  serve. 

Vinaigrette  Sauce:  3  tablespoonfuls  tarragon 
vinegar,  1  teaspoonful  made  mustard,  olive  oil, 
1  teasponful  chopped  gherkins,  1  teaspoonful 
chopped  capers,  %  teaspoonful  chopped  parsley, 
%  teaspoonful  chopped  shallots. 

Mix  in  a  basin  the  tarragon  vinegar,  mustard 
(French  or  English),  and  %  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
To  this  add  6  or  8  tablespoonfuls  of  best  olive 
oil,  the  parsley,  shallots,  gherkins  and  capers. 
Mix  well  before  serving. 

Victoria  Sauce  (for  Fish):  y2  Ib.  fresh  butter, 
4  yolks  of  eggs,  1  teaspoonful  tarragon  vinegar,  1 
tablespoonful  lemon  juice,  1  teaspoonful  chilli 
vinegar,  %  gill  fish  stock,  ^  oz.  lobster  butter, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg. 

Cut  the  butter  into  small  squares,  put  half 
the  quantity  in  a  stewpan,  place  the  stewpan  in 
a  vessel  or  large  stewpan  containing  boiling 
water.  Stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs  by  means  of 
a  whisk,  add  lemon  juice,  tarragon,  and  chilli 
vinegar,  also  the  stock  reduced  to  half  its  quan- 
tity. Season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  pinch  of 
grated  nutmeg.  Finish  by  whisking  in  the  re- 
mainder of  the  pieces  of  fresh  and  the  lobster 
butter.  The  water  in  which  the  stewpan  is 
placed  should  be  kept  at  boiling  point  during 
the  process,  but  on  no  account  must  the  sauce  be 
allowed  to  boil. 

Wargrave  Sauce:  Mix  or  blend  with  a  pint  of 
Demi-glaze  or  other  rich  brown  sauce  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  red  currant  jelly,  a  tablespoonful 


90  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

each  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  mushroom  ketchup, 
and  tomato  puree.  When  well  mixed  stir  in 
about  a  tablespoonful  each  of  the  following: 
pickled  gherkins,  preserved  mushrooms,  cooked 
ham  and  tongue,  all  cut  into  very  fine  Julienne 
strips  or  thin  shreds. 

Watercress  Sauce  (Sauce  Ruisseau) :  y2  bunch 
watercress,  %  tablespoonful  capers,  1^  oz.  of 
butter,  1  gill  chicken  stock,  ^  pint  veloutee 
sauce  or  allemande,  1  hard-boiled  egg,  seasoning. 

Wash,  pick,  and  blanch  the  cresses,  put  them 
in  the  mortar  with  the  egg,  capers,  and  butter, 
pound  until  fine,  and  rub  through  a  sieve.  Put 
the  sauce  and  stock  in  a  stewpan,  let  it  boil  up 
together,  skim,  and  reduce  a  little.  Whisk  in, 
by  degrees,  the  green  puree.  Season  to  taste 
with  pepper  and  salt,  strain  through  a  tammy 
cloth,  return  to  the  stewpan,  and  keep  hot  in  a 
bain-marie  until  required  for  serving.  Do  not 
allow  the  sauce  to  boil  again  after  it  has  been 
strained,  or  else  it  will  become  oily. 

White  Sauce  (Sauce  blanche):  Dissolve  an 
ounce  of  butter  in  a  sauce  pan,  add  one  ounce 
of  flour;  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
just  long  enough  to  cook  the  flour,  without  allow- 
ing to  brown.  Stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling  milk; 
add  a  small  onion  stuck  with  a  clove,  ten  white 
peppercorns,  half  a  bay-leaf,  a  sliced  carrot,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg.  Stir 
until  it  boils,  and  allow  to  simmer  for  about 
fifteen  minutes.  Pass  through  a  sieve  or  tammy 
cloth  or  else  a  fine  strainer,  and  return  to  the 
stewpan.  Lastly  stir  in  with  a  small  piece  of 
fresh  butter,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice. 

White  Sauce  (Simple):  1  oz.  butter,  1  oz. 
flour,  %  pint  milk,  y2  gill  white  stock  or  water, 
y2  bay-leaf,  salt  and  white  pepper. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  stir  in 
the  flour,  and  cook  for  a  few  minutes  without 
allowing  the  flour  to  brown;  dilute  with  the 
milk,  stir  till  it  boils,  then  add  the  stock  and 
bay-leaf,  and  let  simmer  for  at  least  ten  min- 
utes. Eemove  the  bav-leaf,  season  to  taste,  and 
strain. 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  91 

White  Fish  Sauce:  1  oz.  butter,  %  oz.  flour, 
1  gill  milk,  2  tablespoonfuls  cream,  1  small  piece 
of  mace,  %  bay -leaf,  %  teaspoonful  lemon  juice, 
salt  and  pepper,  bones  and  trimmings  of  fish. 

Boil  the  milk  with  some  fish-bones,  bay-leaf, 
and  a  tiny  piece  of  mace,  together  with  y2  gill 
of  water.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  stewpan,  add  the 
flour,  and  stir  a  few  moments  over  the  fire  with- 
out allowing  the  flour  to  take  color.  Stir  about 
a  gill  of  milk  as  above  prepared  into  this,  allow 
it  to  come  to  the  boil  whilst  stirring,  and  let 
simmer  for  ten  minutes;  take  out  the  bay-leaf 
and  mace  and  strain,  heat  up  again,  add  the 
cream,  lemon  juice,  and  seasoning,  and  use  as 
directed. 

Xavier  Sauce  (Fish  Sauce):  y2  bunch  water- 
cress, a  few  sprigs  of  fennel,  %  pint  milk,  fish- 
bones, essence  of  fish  for  which  the  sauce  is 
prepared,  1%  oz.  butter,  y%  oz.  flour,  seasoning, 
lemon  juice. 

Remove  the  stalks  from  the  cress  and  fennel, 
put  the  leaves  in  a  stewpan  with  the  milk  and 
fish-bones,  previously  cut  into  small  pieces  (add 
a  tiny  piece  of  soda),  boil  until  the  leaves  are 
done.  Strain  and  let  cool,  put  the  cooked  herbs 
in  a  mortar,  and  pound  with  half  the  butter, 
then  rub  through  a  sieve.  Cook  the  flour  in 
the  remainder  of  the  butter,  without  taking 
color,  dilute  with  the  milk  in  which  the  cress, 
etc.,  have  boiled.  Stir  until  it  boils,  add  the 
fish  essence,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  for  ten 
minutes.  Strain,  return  to  the  stewpan,  boil  up, 
add  the  green  puree,  and  cook  a  few  minutes 
longer.  Season  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice, 
pepper,  and  salt,  add  a  little  cream  or  stock  if 
found  too  thick,  and  keep  in  the  bain-marie  until 
required. 

Yorkshire  Sauce  (Sauce  York) :  Heat  up  somo 
Espagnole  sauce,  then  add  finely  shredded  or 
grated  orange  rind,  red  currant  jelly,  port  wine, 
orange  juice,  and  a  little  ground  cinnamon  (care- 
ful blending  of  these  ingredients  is  essential), 
reduce  well  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and 
pepper.  The  sauce  is  served  with  boiled  ham  or 
pickled  pork. 


92  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Zingara  Sauce:  Eeduce  half  a  gill  port  wine 
with  a  gill  tomato  puree,  add  a  gill  "  Salmi 
sauce, "  and  reduce  with  half  a  gill  of  rich 
stock;  then  strain  on  to  a  stewpan,  containing 
finely-shredded  ham,  tongue,  mushrooms,  and 
truffles,  about  1  dessertspoonful  of  each,  and 
a  few  very  fine  shreds  of  orange  rind.  Boil  up 
for  about  five  minutes  and  serve. 


SALAD  SAUCES. 


Mayonnaise:  Of  all  the  cold  sauces  used  either 
with  meat  or  fish  or  to  season  salads  the  best 
known,  the  most  popular,  and  the  most  agreeable 
to  the  palate  is  without  doubt  Mayonnaise. 
Spanish  sauce  is  the  fundamental  type  of  brown 
sauces;  veloute  is  the  prototype  of  white  sauces, 
and  Mayonnaise  is  the  sauce  from  which  the  cold 
sauces  are  derived.  Phileas  Gilbert  in  one  of  his 
chronicles  says:  "Mayonnaise  is  the  planet 
around  which  numerous  satellites  gravitate,  the 
highway  from  which  many  paths  run  off. "  The 
ingredients  which  enter  into  the  composition  of 
Mayonnaise  properly  so-called  are  few  in  number, 
easily  manipulated,  and  successful  preparation  is 
simple  enough  if  certain  conditions  are  observed, 
otherwise  the  result  is  disastrous.  The  first  of 
these  rules  is  to  use  first-class  ingredients,  espe- 
cially the  oil,  which  is  the  soul  of  the  sauce. 
The  vinegar  also  must  be  the  best  possible,  and 
a  good  brand  of  mustard  chosen.  As  for  the 
pepper  it  should  be  ground  immediately  before 
use.  The  Mayonnaise  of  course  takes  the  color 
of  the  chopped  herbs  that  are  used  to  season  it; 
thus  with  a  little  chervil  and  tarragon  it  be- 
comes "sauce  verte"  (green  sauce);  with 
chopped  truffles  it  is  "la  sauce  demi-deuil"  (half 
mourning) ;  it  takes  the  name  of  ' '  sauce  Car- 
dinale"  when  lobster  coral  is  added,  and  it  is 
called  Portuguese  when  mixed  with  tomato;  and 
"indienne"  when  some  curry  is  put  into  it.  The 
simple  Mayonnaise,  however,  consists  merely  of 
oil,  vinegar,  pepper,  and  salt,  a  little  mustard, 
and  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  There  has  been  much 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  93 

argument  as  to  how  the  name  Mayonnaise  came 
to  be  given  to  this  sauce.  One  version  is  that  it 
is  a  corruption  of  Bayonnaise,  from  the  town  of 
Bayonne,  where  it  originated.  Another  version 
is  that  the  name  is  really  ' '  Mahonnaise, ' '  and  to 
have  been  given  in  honor  of  Marshal  Richelieu 
after  the  taking  of  Port  Mahon,  the  capital  of 
Minorca,  which  the  Duke  made  himself  master 
of  after  having  beaten  the  English.  Another 
version  attributes  the  invention  of  this  sauce  to 
Mayenne,  and  insists  that  the  name  was  orig- 
inally "  Mayennaise. "  Careme  says  that  we 
ought  to  say  ' '  Magnonnaise, ' '  and  that  it  comes 
from  the  verb  "manier"  from  the  energetic  stir- 
ring the  sauce  undergoes  in  course  of  preparation. 
He  contradicts  this  himself  in  another  chapter  of 
his  book,  where,  in  enumerating  a  list  of  dishes 
named  after  the  localities  where  they  originated, 
he  cites  the  word  "Magnonnaise"  as  being  de- 
rived from  the  town  of  Magnon,  although  at  the 
same  time  there  is  no  such  town  in  France.  The 
philologists  dispute  every  point  except  that  the 
sauce  is  most  stimulating,  the  most  unctuous,  and 
the  most  appetizing  of  all  cold  sauces. 

Plain  Mayonnaise:  The  making  of  a  Mayon- 
naise is  the  terror  of  unskilled  cooks.  To  believe 
them,  there  are  all  sorts  of  difficulties  in  making 
it.  The  work  is  long  and  troublesome,  and  the 
success  of  the  result  is  always  problematic.  Some 
pretend  that  it  can  only  be  made  over  ice,  and 
that  the  sauce  must  always  be  stirred  the  same 
way.  (Both  these  are  gross  errors.)  It  is  pref- 
erable to  operate  in  the  warmth  rather  than  in 
complete  cold,  as  the  oil  in  congealing  is  an 
obstacle  in  the  assimilation  of  the  liquid  with 
the  yolk  and  vinegar  and  the  sauce  rapidly 
decomposes. 

As  for  the  belief  that  the  spoon  or  whisk 
should  be  turned  one  way  rather  than  the  other, 
it  is  too  ridiculous  to  trouble  ourselves  with.  The 
recipe  herewith  may  be  considered  infallible,  not 
only  because  the  ingredients  are  different  to  those 
ordinarily  employed,  but  because  of  the  method 
of  operating  and  mixing  the  ingredients. 

Put  into  a  round  bowl  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 


94  THE  BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

lialf  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  this  quantity  of 
white  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  and  the 
same  of  vinegar.  Mix  these  ingredients  vigor- 
ously with  a  small  metal  whisk,  add  the  oil  grad- 
ually without  stopping  stirring.  Great  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  allow  the  Mayonnaise  to  become 
too  thick.  This  can  be  avoided  by  adding  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar  or  cold  water.  The  method  of 
mixing  the  yolks  with  the  mustard,  vinegar,  salt, 
and  pepper  to  begin  with  is  the  main  point  of 
the  recipe,  and  the  reason  why  success  is  certain, 
as  the  mixture  assimilates  easily  with  the  oil, 
and  it  is  not  even  necessary  to  add  it  drop  by 
drop,  but  it  may  be  put  in  spoonful  by  spoonful 
without  fear.  The  principal  advantage  of  the 
method  of  operating  is  that  sufficient  Mayonnaise 
for  six  people  can  be  prepared  in  five  minutes, 
whereas  the  old  way  would  take  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  The  use  of  a  whisk  in  place  of  a  wooden 
spoon  is  of  great  importance. 

Green  Mayonnaise:  Take  a  large  sprig  of 
parsley,  one  of  chervil,  chives,  and  tarragon. 
Wash,  blanch,  drain,  and  refreshen.  Squeeze  out 
the  moisture  in  a  napkin,  and  put  them  into  a 
mortar  with  the  yolks  of  three  hard  eggs,  salt, 
pepper,  two  anchovies,  and  a  little  mustard. 
Pound,  adding  oil  and  vinegar  until  the  puree 
becomes  smooth.  Then  pass  it  through  a  hair 
sieve  by  the  aid  of  a  palet  knife.  Mix  this  puree 
with  Mayonnaise. 

Tomato  Mayonnaise:  Put  the  yolks  of  2  raw 
eggs  into  a  mixing  basin,  add  a  pinch  of  salt, 
and  stir  in  gradually  a  gill  of  salad  oil.  Mix  a 
teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar  and  one  of  chilli 
vinegar,  with  the  same  quantity  of  French  vine- 
gar. Work  this  in  by  degrees  until  the  sauce 
assumes  a  rich  creamy  consistency.  Mix  about  a 
gill  of  tomato  puree  with  the  Mayonnaise,  and 
place  it  on  the  ice  for  about  an  hour,  then  serve 
with  cold  meat  or  use  for  a  cold  entree. 

Mayonnaise  aux  Fines  Herbes:  Prepare  a 
Mayonnaise  with  two  egg  yolks,  and  when  it  is 
made  and  seasoned  add  a  little  tarragon,  chervil, 
and  parsley,  all  finely  chopped.  Mix  well  and 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  95 

Mayonnaise  a  la  Portugaise:  All  sauces  called 
Portugaise  are  usually  red,  and  colored  by  means 
of  tomatoes.  Add  to  the  Mayonnaise  a  table- 
spoonful  of  tomato  pulp  previously  passed 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Mix  well  and  serve. 

Mayonnaise  a  la  Cardinale:  This  sauce  takes 
its  name  from  the  scarlet  color  communicated  to 
Mayonnaise  by  the  addition  of  crayfish  or  lob- 
ster coral.  Pass  the  coral  through  a  hair  sieve, 
mix  with  the  sauce,  and  season  with  a  little 
cayenne  or  paprika. 

Caper  Mayonnaise:  Mix  a  tablespoonful  or 
two  of  finely  chopped  capers  to  half  a  pint  of 
Mayonnaise. 

Truffle  Mayonnaise:  This  is  a  Mayonnaise  to 
which  finely  chopped  truffles  have  been  added. 
This  preparation  is  known  as  demi-deuil  sauce. 

Mayonnaise  a  la  Gelee:  Put  into  a  basin  some 
almost  cold  aspic  jelly.  Mix  this  with  the  same 
quantity  of  olive  oil  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  fine 
herbs,  salt,  and  pepper.  Stir  the  sauce  on  ice 
with  an  egg  whisk  until  it  commences  to  thicken. 
Then  take  it  off  the  ice  and  whisk  it  a  few 
minutes  longer.  This  Mayonnaise  is  usually  em- 
ployed with  cold  fish  or  fowl.  It  is  lighter  than 
Mayonnaise  made  with  egg,  but  is  less  appre- 
ciated. 

Cumberland  Sauce:  This  sauce  is  much  in 
favor  in  England,  and  is  served  with  cold  game 
or  galantine  of  boar's  head.  Chop  up  two  shal- 
lots and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  the  juice 
of  an  orange  and  a  lemon  cut  into  fine  Julienne. 
Boil  in  water  for  twenty  minutes  and  drain. 
Then  put  the  juice  and  shallots  into  a  basin  with 
six  spoonfuls  of  currant  jelly,  three  of  port  wine, 
a  pinch  of  ground  ginger,  a  little  cayenne,  and 
the  juice  of  the  lemon  and  orange. 

Sauce  a  la  Diable:  This  sauce  is  served  and 
eaten  with  grilled  meat.  Chop  three  peeled 
shallots  and  half  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  boil  in  a 
small  pan  with  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a 
sprinkling  of  cayenne  for  ten  minutes.  Add  a 
little  tomato  sauce  and  Worcester  sauce,  and 


96  THE    BOOK    OF    SAUCES 

allow  to  cool.  Mix  this  with,  a  rather  thick 
Mayonnaise. 

Pepper  Sauce:  Pepper  sauce  properly  so- 
called  is  served  hot  with  certain  entrees,  and 
usually  with  braised  fillet  of  beef,  but  the  cold 
pepper  sauce  eaten  with  artichokes  and  aspara- 
gus is  simply  made  with  oil,  vinegar,  pepper, 
and  salt,  to  which  a  little  mustard  may  be  added. 

Ravigote  Sauce:  The  name  of  ravigote  was 
formerly  gi-ven  to  a  mixture  of  herbs  chopped 
finely,  composed  of  parsley,  chervil,  tarragon, 
chives,  pimpernel,  and  capers.  This  is  the  origin 
of  ravigote  sauce,  which  is  a  simple  vinaigrette 
seasoned  with  these  herbs  and  with  the  addition 
of  chopped  or  pounded  yolk  of  hard-boiled  egg. 
This  sauce,  in  the  old  days,  was  known  as 
1 1  grebiche. ' ' 

Remoulade  Sauce:  Remoulade  is  often  con- 
founded with  ravigote,  although  the  sauces  are 
entirely  different.  Bemoulade  differs  from  other 
cold  sauces  insomuch  as  mustard  is  its  charac- 
teristic basis,  and  it  is  flavored  with  pounded 
anchovies.  Chop  up  finely  three  shallots  and  fry 
them  in  oil,  stirring  them  until  they  take  a  light 
color.  Then  drain  and  let  them  cool.  Chop  up 
some  parsley,  chervil,  and  pimpernel.  Put  these 
herbs  in  the  corner  of  a  napkin,  and  steep  them 
in  boiling  water.  Press  out  the  moisture  by 
wringing  the  linen,  and  put  the  herbs  into  a 
bowl  with  the  chopped  shallot,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  tarragon  mustard,  salt,  and  pepper.  Add  oil 
drop  by  drop,  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  or 
with  an  egg  whisk,  and  finally  put  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  vinegar.  Add  the  oil  to  the  mustard 
very  carefully,  otherwise  the  sauce  will  decom- 
pose. 

Bemoulade  Sauce  a  I'lndienne:  Pound  in  a 
small  mortar  the  yolks  of  four  hard-boiled  eggs, 
adding  y2  pint  of  oil  and  %  gill  of  vinegar, 
drop  by  drop.  Add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  curry 
paste,  season,  and  pass  through  a  sieve.  This  is 
used  with  poultry  or  game  salads.  It  should 
have  a  very  pronounced  yellow  color. 

Tartare  Sauce:  Mix  the  yolks  of  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  in  a  small  basin,  then  add  a  tea- 


THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES  97 

spoonful  of  French  mustard  and  as  much.  English 
mustard.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  vinegar.  Mix  with  an  egg  whisk  and 
allow  the  oil  to  run  from  the  bottle  in  a  thin 
thread,  whisking  .constantly  untdl  the  sauce 
thickens.  It  can  be  thinned  with  vinegar  if 
necessary.  Add  finally  capers,  chopped  gherkins, 
chervil,  tarragon,  and  a  sprinkling  of  cayenne. 
If  these  instructions  are  followed  to  the  letter 
the  sauce  should  not  turn.  Either  hard-boiled 
or  raw  yolks  of  eggs  may  be  used. 

Vinaigrette:  This  is  usually  served  with 
asparagus  and  globe  artichokes.  It  should  not 
be  prepared  in  advance.  As  a  rule  each  person 
makes  it  on  his  own  plate.  It  is  simply  com- 
posed of  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper,  to  which 
a  little  mustard  may  be  added;  chopped  parsley, 
gherkins,  etc.,  can  also  be  mixed  with  it  if  liked. 


(l,          FRUIT  SAUCES. 

The  continental  custom  of  serving  fruit  sauces 
as  an  accompaniment  with  certain  fish,  roast, 
braised  or  boiled  meat,  roast  game  and  poultry 
is  becoming  fashionable  in  other  countries. 

Apple  Sauce  (served  with  roast  pork,  goose,  or 
duck) :  Peel  and  core  1  Ib.  of  cooking  apples 
and  slice  thinly,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
'an  ounce  of  sugar,  and  a  teacupful  of  cold 
water.  Cook  the  apples  until  they  are  tender 
and  will  mash  easily;  they  require  from  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  to  an  hour  to  cook.  Pass 
the  fruit  through  a  wire  sieve,  return  the  sauce 
to  the  stewpan,  stir  in  about  an  ounce  of  butter, 
and  serve  hot. 

Apple  Sauce  (Another  Way):  Peel,  core  and 
slice  6  large  sour  cooking  apples  and  cook  them 
till  tender  with  %  pint  rich  gravy,  rub  through 
a  fine  wire  sieve  and  add  a  tiny  pinch  of  cayenne. 

Brown  Apple  Sauce:  Peel,  core  and  slice 
thinly  about  1  Ib.  of  cooking  apples,  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  with  about  a  pint  of  brown  stock  or 
gravy,  and  let  them  boil  until  the  fruit  is  ten- 
der. Stir  them  and  mash  them  from  time  to 


98  THE   BOOK  OF   SAUCES 

time,  and  when  they  are  mashed  add  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper.  Serve  hot. 

Cherry  Sauce  (Served  with  Eoast  Snipe  and 
Woodcocks) :  Eemove  the  stems  from  y2  Ib.  of 
cooking  cherries,  stone  them,  wash  them  and 
drain  them  from  the  water  into  a  stewpan,  add 
an  ounce  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Let  the  cherries  stew  gently  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour.  Serve  them  hot  in  a  sauce  boat. 

Cranberry  Sauce  (Served  with  Eoast  Turkey, 
Duck  or  Game):  Wash  *£  Ib.  of  cranberries, 
then  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  add  sufficient  water 
to  cover  them,  and  an  ounce  of  sugar.  Allow 
the  cranberries  to  stew  for  about  half  an  hour, 
and  serve  when  cold. 

Damson  Sauce:  To  a  pint  of  vinegar  add  a 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  and 
3  quarts  of  damsons.  Boil  all  together  till  the 
fruit  is  tender,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve, 
and  bottle  and  cork  at  once.  j  ' 

Gooseberry  Sauce  (Served  with  Mackerel  and 
Eoast  Pork,  and  Sometimes  with  Boiled  Lamb  or 
Mutton):  Top  and  tail  a  pint  of  green,  unripe 
gooseberries,  wash  them,  and  place  them  in  a 
stewpan,  add  an  ounce  of  sugar,  a  gill  of  cold 
water.  Cover  the  stewpan  and  cook  slowly  for 
about  half  an  hour;  shake  the  pan  from  time  to 
time  to  prevent  the  fruit  from  sticking.  When 
the  fruit  is  quite  soft,  pass  through  a  sieve,  and 
serve  the  sauce  hot. 

Orange  Sauce  (Served  with  Eoast  Wild  Duck, 
Widgeon  and  Teal) :  Take  half  a  pint  of  well 
flavored  stock  or  gravy  (free  from  fat),  add  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  a  Seville  orange  (fail- 
ing Seville  oranges  use  the  ordinary  sour 
oranges),  a  small  glass  of  sherry,  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper.  Mix  these  ingre- 
dients and  put  them  in  a  saucepan.  Let  the 
sauce  simmer  for  about  10  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Orange  Sauce  (Another  Way) :  Put  2  table- 
spoonfuls  of  red  currant  jelly  into  a  small  basin, 
and  place  it  in  a  vessel  containing  boiling  water; 
when  the  jelly  has  melted,  add  the  grated  rind 
and  juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  the  juice  of  half 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  99 

a  lemon,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  port 
wine.  Mix  the  ingredients  well,  and  serve  the 
sauce  hot  or  cold. 

Oporto  Sauce:  Put  into  a  clean  saucepan  the 
following  ingredients:  a  wineglassful  of  port 
wine,  a  dessertspoonful  of  brandy,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  red  currant  jelly,  a  dozen  stoned 
Morella  cherries,  a  small  apple,  peeled,  cored, 
and  cut  up  small,  and  3  French  plums.  Boil  up 
slowly  and  take  out  the  fruit  when  cooked.  Mix 
a  teaspoonful  of  corn  or  rice  flour  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  castor  sugar  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
port  wine;  add  this  to  the  first  liquor,  and  boil. 
Pass  the  fruit  through  a  fine  sieve  and  add  to 
the  sauce.  Serve  it  iced  or  very  cold. 

Raisin  Sauce  (Served  with  Eoast  or  Braised 
Meat) :  Stone  and  wash  2  ounces  of  raisins,  and 
boil  them  in  a  stewpan  in  half  a  pint  of  water 
for  about  20  minutes.  Melt  in  a  stewpan  an 
ounce  of  butter,  add  an  ounce  of  flour,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  nicely  browned,  then  add  half 
an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and 
shredded,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  also  half  an 
ounce  of  sugar,  a  glass  of  claret,  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  nut- 
meg; then  add  the  stewed  raisins,  allow  the 
sauce  to  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  and  serve  hot. 

Sultana  Sauce  (Served  with  Braised  or  Stewed 
Hares,  Babbits,  and  Eagouts):  Pick  and  wash 
and  soak  in  tepid  water  2  ounces  of  sultanas, 
and  cook  them  in  a  stewpan  for  about  15  minutes 
in  half  a  pint  of  water.  Mix  ty  an  ounce  of  corn- 
flour with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  stir  it  into 
the  boiling  fruit  and  cook  until  it  thickens.  Add 
the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a 
small  glass  of  claret.  Eeheat  and  serve  hot. 

Tamarind  Sauce  (Usually  Served  with  Fish): 
Mix  14  lb.  of  tamarinds  with  %  pint  of  water 
and  rub  all  through  a  wire  sieve;  put  the  pulp 
thus  obtained  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  wineglass- 
ful of  port  wine  or  claret,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  an  ounce  of  sugar,  and  half  a  saltspoonful 
of  cayenne.  Boil  up  and  stir  the  ingredients 


100  THE   BOOK  OF   SAUCES 

until  quite  smooth.     Add  more  water,  if  found 
too  thick.     Serve  the  sauce  hot  or  cold. 

Red  Wine  Raisin  Sauce  (Served  with  Eoast 
Beef,  Venison  or  Wild  Birds):  Stone  4  ozs.  of 
raisins  and  chop  them  finely,  then  simmer  in  a 
stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  Demi-glace  sauce 
for  ten  minutes,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and 
the  grated  rind  of  a  quarter  of  it,  a  glass  of 
claret,  also  a  teaspoonful  of  castor  sugar.  Boil 
up  and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  then  serve  hot  or 
cold. 


SWEET  SAUCES. 


Tor  Hot  and  Cold  Puddings,  Fruit  Timbales  and 
Croutes,  Fritters,  etc. 

Almond  Sauce:  Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  bring  nearly  to  the  boil,  then  stir 
in  slowly  one  level  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour 
or  cornstarch  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold 
milk;  stir  till  it  boils,  then  add  half  an  ounce 
of  Valencia  almonds  and  four  bitter  almonds, 
previously  blanched,  peeled,  chopped  and  pounded 
to  a  paste  with  2  ounces  of  castor  sugar;  reboil 
the  whole,  then  add  a  raw  yolk  of  egg.  Ee-heat, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil  again.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Almond  Cream  Sauce:  Blanch  and  skin  one 
ounce  of  Jordan  almonds  and  six  bitter  almonds; 
then  put  them  in  a  mortar  with  4  ounces  of 
castor  sugar  and  a  tabelspoonful  of  orange-flour 
water,  and  pound  them  finely;  remove  this  and 
put  into  a  small  stewpan,  add  a  gill  of  cream 
and  2  egg  yolks,  and  whisk  the  sauce  over  boil- 
ing water  until  it  resembles  a  smooth  cream. 

Almond  Sauce  for  Fruit  Salad:  Blanch  and 
peel  one  dozen  sweet  and  four  bitter  almonds, 
soak  them  in  cold  water  for  about  two  hours; 
drain  and  chop  them,  next  put  them  in  a  little 
cold  water  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  and 
sufficient  salt  and  pepper  to  season;  by  degrees 
add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  sherry — just  enough  to 
make  it  the  consistency  of  cream.  This  dress- 
ing may  be  used  on  sliced  apples,  pears,  peaches 
and  fresh  figs. 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  101 

Apricot  Sauce:  Required:  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  apricot  marmalade,  %  gill  sherry  or  ^4  gill 
brandy,  1  gill  water,  %  oz.  fresh  butter. 

Put  the  marmalade  in  a  stewpan,  and  let  dis- 
solve with  the  water  and  butter.  Remove  from 
the  fire,  add  the  sherry  or  brandy,  boil  up  again, 
strain,  and  use  as  required.  A  liaison  of  one 
dessertspoonful  of  cornflour  added  to  the  above 
will  improve  the  appearance  for  cooking  pur- 
poses. A  little  sugar  may  be  added  if  found 
necessary. 

Banana  Cream  Sauce:  Peel  three  ripe  bananas, 
and  rub  them  through  a  sieve.  Mix  an  ounce 
of  corn  or  rice  flour  with  a  little  cold  water  into 
a  smooth  paste,  add  to  it  a  gill  of  cream,  stir 
over  the  fire  until  it  boils,  and  allow  to  simmer 
for  five  minutes,  then  add  the  banana  pulp, 
about  1%  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  rosewater.  Re-heat  and  flavor  with  a 
little  lemon  rind.  Last  of  all  stir  in  a  little 
whipped  cream. 

Brandy  Sauce:  Required:  4  oz.  loaf  sugar, 
%  oz.  cornflour,  y2  gill  brandy,  %  pint  water. 

Put  the  sugar  and  rather  more  than  a  gill  and 
a  half  of  water  in  a  copper  stewpan,  boil  a  few 
minutes,  take  off  the  scum,  and  reduce  to  a  thin 
syrup.  Mix  the  cornflour  with  a  little  cold 
water,  stir  into  the  boiling  syrup,  and  whisk 
over  the  fire  for  about  five  minutes.  Add  the 
brandy,  strain,  and  serve  hot  with  the  pudding. 

Brandy  Butter:  Work  to  a  cream  in  a  basin 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  6  ounces  of  fresh  butter 
with  2  ounces  of  icing  sugar,  then  add  by  de- 
grees 2  dessertspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  and  2 
to  3  tablespoonfuls  of  brandy;  beat  until  it 
resembles  whipped  cream,  and  put  it  on  the 
ice  till  required.  This  sauce  is  good  with  most 
steamed  or  baked  puddings;  it  can  also  be  used 
as  a  garnish  for  cold  puddings. 

Caramel  Sauce:  (another  way):  Put  an  ounce 
of  loaf  sugar  into  a  copper  pan  and  cook  it  to 
a  light  brown  color;  pour  in  quickly  half  a  pint 
of  syrup,  flavor  with  vanilla  pod  or  essence  and 
reduce  a  little.  About  five  minutes  before  serv- 
ing incorporate  a  dessertspoonful  of  arrow  root, 


102  THE   BOOH   OF    SAUCES 

previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold  milk  or  cream. 
Boil  while  stirring  for  a  few  minutes,  then  strain 
and  serve. 

Chaudeau  Sauce:  Put  into  a  small  stewpan  1 
gill  of  white  wine,  Chablis,  Sauterne  or  Hock; 
whisk  in  3  yolks  of  eggs  and  1  oz.  of  castor 
sugar,  and  stir  or  whisk  over  the  fire  till  the  mix- 
ture becomes  a  cream-like  froth.  It  must  be  hot 
but  not  boiling.  Pour  over  the  pudding  or  serve 
in  a  sauce  boat. 

Cherry  Sauce:  Cream  up  2  ounces  of  fresh 
butter  and  2  ounces  of  sugar,  then  add  the 
whisked  white  of  an  egg,  and  about  half  a  pint 
of  cherry  pulp,  made  from  fresh  or  bottled 
cherries;  the  fruit  should  be  first  stewed.  Mix 
it  all  well  together,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
kirsch  or  rum,  and  if  liked  a  few  drops  of  liquid 
carmine.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Chocolate  Sauce:  Kequired — 4  oz.  grated 
chocolate,  2  oz.  icing  sugar,  %  pint  of  water,  1 
oz.  fecule  or  creme  de  riz,  1  teaspoonful  vanilla 
essence,  tablespoonful  of  brandy. 

Put  the  chocolate  sugar,  and  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan; stir  over  the  fire  until  it  boils.  Mix  the 
fecule  or  creme  de  riz  with  an  extra  gill  of 
cold  water,  add  it  to  the  chocolate,  bring  it 
again  to  the  boil,  and  let  simmer  for  five  min- 
utes. Pass  through  a  tammy  or  napkin,  return 
to  the  saucepan,  add  the  brandy  and  vanilla 
essence,  and  keep  hot  until  required. 

Chocolate  Sauce  (No.  2):  Boil  half  a  pint  of 
grated  chocolate,  add  half  a  gill  of  cream,  stir 
this  on  to  two  yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten,  re- 
turn to  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  and  stir  until 
it  thickens.  A  little  sugar  may  be  added  if 
required. 

Chocolate  Sauce  (Cold) :  Prepare  a  custard  as 
follows: — Beat  up  4  yolks  of  eggs,  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk 
and  one  ounce  of  castor  sugar,  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  it  thickens;  do  not  allow  it  to  boil 
or  it  will  curdle;  add  2  ounces  of  chocolate  pre- 
viously dissolved  and  boiled  in  half  a  pint  of 
milk,  when  cool  add  it  to  the  custard,  then 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  103 

pass  through  a  fine  sieve;  when  cold  stir  in 
about  half  a  gill  of  whipped  cream  and  serve. 

Claret  Sauce:  Put  in  a  stewpan  iy2  gill  of 
claret  with  1  oz.  loaf  sugar,  a  piece  of  cinnamon, 
and  a  slice  of  lemon.  Boil  up,  and  add  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  Brown  and  Poison 's  cornflour  mixed 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water.  Cook  for 
ten  minutes,  strain  and  serve. 

Coffee  Custard  Sauce:  Put  6  tablespoonfuls  of 
freshly-made  strong  coffee  into  a  saucepan  with 
%  pint  of  milk  and  2  to  3  ounces  of  loaf  sugar; 
let  it  boil,  strain,  then  stir  or  whisk  in  the 
yolks  of  3  eggs.  Ee-heat  whilst  stirring  until 
it  thickens,  strain,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
cream. 

Coffee  Sauce:  Boast  2  ounces  of  raw  coffee 
berries  in  a  pan  over  a  quick  fire  till  of  a 
chestnut  brown  color.  Then  pound  them  in  a 
mortar.  Boil  half  a  pint  of  water  and  pour 
over  the  coffee.  Cover,  and  let  it  infuse  for  some 
minutes.  Now  strain  and  sweeten  with  plain 
incorporate  a  dessertspoonful  of  arrow  root,  or 
cornflour  with  a  small  glass  of  brandy  or  kirsch. 
Add  this  to  the  coffee.  Let  simmer  five  minutes 
and  serve. 

Custard  Sauce:  Beat  up  two  eggs  in  a  basin, 
and  add  by  degrees  a  pint  of  boiling  milk. 
Sweeten  with  an  ounce  of  castor  sugar  and  stir 
or  whisk  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  begins 
to  thicken  and  is  of  a  creamlike  appearance. 
Flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  vanilla  or  lemon 
essence,  then  serve  hot.  Great  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  let  the  sauce  boil  otherwise  it  will 
curdle. 

Custard  Sauce  (No.  2):  Boil  half  a  pint  of 
milk,  beat  up  two  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  basin,  add 
a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar,  add  some 
flavoring  essence  if  liked,  stir  the  boiling  milk 
gradually  on  the  egg,  return  into  the  stewpan 
and  stir  over  a  gentle  fire  until  the  custard  is 
formed.  It  must  not  on  any  account  be  allowed 
to  boil.  If  liked  a  little  thicker,  a  teaspoonful 
of  cornflour  may  be  mixed  with  a  little  cold 
milk;  this  must  be  added  to  the  hot  milk  be- 
fore the  yolks,  etc.,  are  incorporated.  Cinnamon, 


104  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

nutmeg  or  lemon  rind  may  be  used  as  flavoring 
in  place  of  essence. 

Custard  Sauce  (No.  3) :  Put  into  a  bain-marie 
pan  y2  pint  of  milk,  an  ounce  of  castor  sugar, 
and  a  small  piece  of  whole  cinnamon  or  vanilla 
pod.  Boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  take  out 
the  cinnamon  or  vanilla  pod,  and  add  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs.  Whisk  all  until  it  is  of  a  creamy 
consistency.  Before  serving  add  a  small  glass 
of  sherry  or  Marsala. 

Curacoa  Sauce:  Required:  1  oz.  fresh  butter, 
%  oz.  flour,  1  gill  milk,  1  oz.  sugar,  1  whole  egg, 
y%  teaspoonful  vanilla  essence,  %  oz.  finely- 
chopped  pistachios,  %  oz.  finely-chopped  lemon 
peel,  1  tablespoonful  red  cura§oa. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in  the 
flour  and  blend  over  the  fire  for  a  few  seconds. 
Moisten  slowly  with  the  milk,  add  the  sugar, 
and  stir  well  over  the  fire;  beat  up  the  egg  and 
add  also;  strain  the  sauce  into  another  saucepan, 
let  it  get  hot,  but  not  boiling;  stir  in  the  lemon 
peel,  pistachios,  and  curagoa,  and  serve  as 
directed. 

Foam  or  Whip  Sauce:  Put  into  a  saucepan 
the  yolks  of  3  eggs  and  one  whole  egg,  2  ounces 
of  castor  sugar,  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon, 
a  glass  of  marsolo  or  sherry  and  one  of  brandy, 
put  the  pan  in  a  larger  one  containing  boiling 
water,  place  it  over  the  fire  and  whisk  until  the 
sauce  ingredients  resemble  foam  or  broth.  Serve 
hot  or  pour  it  over  a  pudding. 

Hard  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Cream  up  4  ounces  of 
butter  with  6  ounces  of  sugar,  then  stir  in  a 
glass  of  sherry  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Beat  the  mixture  until  a  fairly  firm  cream  is 
obtained.  Spread  it  neatly  on  a  plate  and  keep 
on  the  ice  till  wanted;  serve  with  hot  pudding. 
Brandy  may  be  used  instead  of  wine. 

Jamaica  Sauce:  Peel  two  ripe  bananas,  rub 
them  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  the  pulp  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  gill  of  water,  a  dessertspoon- 
ful of  castor  sugar,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  white 
rum,  boil  up,  and  thicken  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
cornflour  or  cornstarch,  previously  mixed  with  a 
little  cold  milk.  Boil  up,  add  the  yolks  of  2 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  105 

eggs,  and  flavor  with  a  few  drops  of  vanilla 
essence. 

Kirsch  Sauce:  Proceed  the  same  as  directed 
for  brandy  sauce,  but  substitute  y%  gill  of 
kirschwasser  for  the  brandy. 

Liqueur  Sauce:  Put  the  yolks  of  three  or  four 
eggs  in  a  bain-marie  pan  with  a  small  glass  of 
maraschino,  curac.oa  or  other  suitable  liqueur, 
add  2  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  previously  rasped  on 
the  rind  of  a  lemon  to  extract  all  the  zest  and 
dissolved  in  half  a  gill  of  water.  Place  the 
pan  in  the  bain-marie  or  a  large  pan  of  hot 
water,  then  whisk  the  sauce  until  it  has  a  cream- 
like  texture,  and  serve  at  once. 

Maraschino  Sauce:  Take  1  oz.  fresh  butter, 
%  oz.  flour,  1  gill  milk,  1  oz.  sugar,  1  whole  egg, 
%  teaspoonful  vanilla  essence,  ^  oz.  finely 
chopped  pistachios,  ^  oz.  finely  chopped  lemon 
rind,  1  tablespoonful  of  maraschino. 

Melt  the  butter  in  a  small  stewpan,  stir  in 
the  flour,  and  blend  over  the  fire  for  a  few  sec- 
onds. Moisten  slowly  with  the  milk,  adding  the 
sugar,  and  stir  well  over  the  fire;  beat  up  the 
egg  and  add  also;  strain  the  sauce  into  another 
saucepan,  let  it  get  hot,  but  not  boiling;  stir  in 
the  lemon-peel,  pistachios,  and  the  maraschino, 
and  serve  as  required. 

Marmalade  Sauce:  Required:  ^  oz.  corn- 
starch  or  cornflour,  1  tablespoonful  marmalade, 
%  oz.  castor  sugar,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  *£ 
pint  water,  1  tablespoonful  sherry. 

Mix  the  cornflour  with  a  little  cold  water  in 
a  saucepan,  add  to  this  remainder  of  above- 
named  ingredients  and  place  on  the  fire,  stir  till 
it  boils  and  cook  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain. 

Moka  Pudding  Sauce:  Take  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  one  ounce  of  castor  sugar  and  a  liqueur 
glass  of  Kirschwasser,  a  tablespoonful  of  cream 
and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  strong  black  coffee. 
Whisk  this  over  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water 
from  10  to  15  minutes,  long  enough  to  bind.  The 
sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Nutmeg  Sauce:  Boil  in  a  saucepan  1%  gills 
of  milk  with  %  ounce  of  butter  and  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  castor  sugar,  then  thicken  with  a 


106  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

dessertspoonful  of  cornflour  or  cornstarch,  add 
a  sufficiency  of  grated  nutmeg  to  flavor,  also 
a  dessertspoonful  of  brandy,  and  whisk  it  over 
the  fire  for  several  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

Orange  Sauce  (No.  2):  Eub  the  rind  of  two 
oranges  all  over  several  lumps  of  loaf  sugar, 
then  scrape  it  off  and  put  it  into  a  small  stew- 
pan  with  the  juice  and  pulp  of  four  oranges, 
previously  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve;  to  this 
add  a  heaped-up  dessertspoonful  of  arrowroot 
or  cornflour,  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold 
water,  an  ounce  of  castor  sugar,  and  a  liqueur 
glassful  of  curac,oa.  Stir  over  the  fire  until 
the  sauce  boils,  then  simmer  for  about  5  minutes 
and  serve  hot. 

Punch  Syrup:  Required :  4  oz.  loaf  sugar, 
1  orange,  ^  tablespoonful  vanilla  essence,  % 
gill  best  rum,  %  gill  water. 

Eub  the  sugar  on  the  orange  rind  to  obtain 
the  flavor  of  half  the  orange.  Put  this  into  a 
Stewpan,  add  the  rum,  light  it,  and  cover  quickly; 
let  it  infuse  for  a  few  seconds  over  the  fire, 
then  add  the  water,  vanilla  essence,  and  the 
piece  of  orange,  and  boil  for  five  minutes;  strain, 
and  serve  hot  with  the  pudding. 

NOTE:  If  preferred,  brandy  or  kirschwasser 
inay  be  used  in  place  of  rum. 

Bhubarb  and  Banana  Sauce:  Stew  1  bundle 
of  forced  rhubarb  in  a  syrup  made  of  2  ozs.  of 
loaf  sugar  and  %  gill  of  water.  When  soft,  rub 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Cool  and  add  %  gill  of 
cream  and  2  tablespoonsful  of  banana  cut  into 
small  dice.  Serve  cold  with  stewed  rice  or  with 
cornflour  blanc  mange. 

Rum  Sauce:  Boil  up  in  a  saucepan  %  pint  of 
milk  with  two  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  then  add 
a  heaped-up  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour  or  corn- 
starch  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold  milk, 
re-boil,  and  add  2  tablespoonfuls  of  rum.  When 
serving,  mix  in  if  liked  a  few  coarsely  chopped 
peeled  pistachio  kernels. 

Bum  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Put  into  a  saucepan  % 
pint  of  water,  3  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  mar- 
malade, and  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon;  let 
these  boil  together  for  five  minutes,  then  strain, 


THE  BOOK   OF   SAUCES  107 

and  thicken  with  a  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour 
or  cornstarch,  previously  mixed  with  a  little  cold 
water,  and  boil  for  another  five  minutes;  whisk 
in  an  egg  yolk,  add  also  a  small  glass  of  rum, 
re-heat  without  boiling  and  serve  hot. 

Raspberry  Sauce:  Heat  up  a  gill  of  raspberry 
pulp  or  a  similar  proportion  of  raspberry  jam 
with  1  oz.  of  sugar.  Mix  a  tablespoonful  of 
cornflour  with  milk,  cream  or  water,  and  stir  into 
the  above.  Boil  for  eight  minutes,  strain,  and 
add  rum  or  brandy  to  taste. 

Sabayon  Sauce:  Put  3  oz.  castor  sugar,  3 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  *4  gill  cream  in  a  stewpan, 
place  it  in  a  bain-marie  or  vessel  of  boiling 
water  over  the  fire,  stir  with  a  whisk  until 
frothy,  then  add  1  gill  Maderia  wine,  whisk  it 
until  it  begins  to  thicken  and  is  of  light  appear- 
ance, pour  over  the  pudding  and  serve. 

Sweet  Sauce:  Put  %  pint  of  water  into  a 
pan  with  thinly  peeled  rind  of  half  a  lemon, 
also  of  half  an  orange,  2  ounces  of  sugar,  a  piece 
of  cinnamon,  and  half  a  bay-leaf;  simmer  for 
a  few  minutes.  Mix  a  dessertspoonful  of  arrow- 
root with  a  little  sherry  and  add  this,  together 
with  the  strained  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  one 
orange.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  it  thickens, 
strain,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or 
maraschino,  and  serve  hot. 

Sweet  Chaud-froid  Sauce:  Soak  %  oz.  gelatine 
in  cold  water,  strain  and  dissolve  in  a  saucepan 
with  1  gill  of  cream  or  milk,  reduce  a  little 
whilst  stirring  and  add  the  desired  flavoring, 
such  as  fruit  pulp,  vanilla,  kirsch,  maraschino, 
or  rum.  Cook  for  a  few  minutes,  strain,  and 
add  a  little  whipped  cream,  stir  in  the  ice  till 
nearly  cold,  and  use  for  coating  fruit:  peaches, 
pears,  apricots,  apples,  etc. 

Sweet  Lemon  Sauce:  Put  2  yolks  of  eggs  in 
a  small  saucepan,  beat  up  well,  and  add  2  oz. 
castor  sugar,  y2  oz.  of  cornflour,  and  the  rind 
of  half  a  lemon  chopped  finely.  Mix  thoroughly 
and  work  in  slowly  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk. 
Stir  with  a  whisk  over  the  fire  until  the  sauce 
acquires  the  desired  consistency,  strain,  and  serve 
as  directed. 


108  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

Sweet  Melted  Butter  Sauce:  Required — 1  oz. 
fresh  butter,  %  oz.  flour,  1^  gill  of  milk,  1  des- 
sert-spoonful castor  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  vanilla 
essence. 

Dissolve  the  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the 
flour  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes 
without  allowing  the  flour  to  brown;  then  add 
by  degrees  the  milk,  stir  till  it  boils,  add  the 
sugar,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Just  before 
serving  add  vanilla  cream. 

Sweet  Mousseline  Sauce:  Eequired — 3  yolks  of 
eggs,  2  whites  of  eggs,  %  gill  cream,  1^  oz. 
castor  sugar,  1  wineglassful  maraschino. 

Put  all  the  above  ingredients  into  a  small 
stewpan,  beat  it  with  a  whisk,  stand  the  pan 
in  a  bain-marie  or  a  large  vessel  three  parts 
full  of  boiling  water.  Stir  until  it  becomes 
creamy,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Serve  with 
hot  sweet  puddings,  etc. 

Sweet  Orange  Sauce:  Kequired — 2  yolks  of 
eggs,  1  small  orange,  2  oz.  castor  sugar,  %  pint 
of  milk,  1  glass  curacoa. 

Boil  up  the  milk  and  sugar,  add  the  rind  of 
orange  finely  grated,  the  tablespoonful  of  orange 
juice,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  eggs,  beat  well  over 
the  fire  with  a  small  whisk.  When  the  sauce 
begins  to  thicken,  place  in  the  bain-marie  or 
a  vessel  containing  boiling  water,  add  the 
liqueur,  and  continue  to  whisk  for  ten  minutes; 
the  sauce  is  then  ready  for  serving. 

Cold  Strawberry  Sauce:  Boil  up  1  gill  of 
strawberry  pulp  with  1  oz.  of  castor  or  icing 
sugar.  Mix  a  dessertspoonful  of  cornflour  (or 
cornstarch)  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry  and 
stir  into  the  above.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  strain, 
add  a  tablespoonful  of  cream,  and  serve. 

Hot  Strawberry  Sauce:  Eequired:  The  pulp 
of  a  dozen  large,  ripe  strawberries,  1  glass  of 
Sauterne  or  Chablis,  1  egg,  1  oz.  sugar. 

Put  the  fruit  pulp,  wine,  and  sugar  in  a  small 
stewpan,  whisk  over  a  moderate  fire  until  almost 
boiling,  then  add  the  egg;  continue  to  whisk 
until  quite  frothy;  on  no  account  allow  it  to  boil. 
Serve  as  soon  as  ready. 

Cornflour  Sauce:     Eequired:     1  tablespoonful 


THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES  109 

cornstarch  or  cornflour,  y2  pint  milk,  1  pat  fresh 
butter,  %  oz.  loaf  sugar,  lemon  rind  or  vanilla 
pod. 

Boil  up  the  milk  with  the  butter,  loaf  sugar, 
and  the  thin  rind  of  half  a  lemon  or  an  inch  of 
vanilla  pod.  Mix  the  cornflour  with  a  little  cold 
milk  in  a  basin,  and  pour  on  it  the  hot  milk, 
return  to  the  saucepan,  boil  up,  and  cook  for 
eight  minutes. 

Valancia  Sauce:  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  red 
currant  jelly  with  a  gill  of  water  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  stir  over  the  fire  until  the  jelly  is  dis- 
solved, then  add  the  strained  juice  of  an  orange, 
and  some  of  the  rind,  finely  grated  or  cut  into 
fine  shreds,  with  a  few  blanched  and  shredded 
almonds  or  a  tablespoonful  of  desiccated  or 
fresh  cocoanut.  Sweeten  to  taste,  and  serve 
hot. 

Vanilla  Sauce:  Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as 
above  directed,  omitting  the  lemon  rind  and 
using  vanilla  pod  in  its  place.  A  little  cream  may 
be  added  just  before  serving. 

Vanilla  Sauce  (No.  2):  Boil  1  gill  of  milk 
with  %  a  vanilla  pod;  cream  3  egg  yolks  with 
1  oz.  of  castor  sugar,  and  pour  over,  whilst 
stirring,  the  milk.  Eeturn  all  into  the  stewpan 
and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  but  must 
not  boil.  Strain  and  serve  as  required  (hot  or 
cold). 

Wine  Sauce:  Put  into  a  jar  or  bain-marie  pan 
3  egg  yolks,  a  gill  of  sherry,  Marsala  or  Ma- 
deira, and  a  tablespoonful  of  castor  sugar.  Place 
the  pan  in  a  bain-marie  or  else  in  a  large  sauce- 
pan of  boiling  water,  and  whisk  till  frothy  and 
of  creamlike  consistency.  It  must  not  boil  or 
it  will  curdle. 


STORE  SAUCES. 


Condiment  or  Relish  Sauces  for  the  Kitchen  and 

the  Table. 

Albany  Sauce:  Put  the  yolks  of  2  hard-boiled 
eggs  and  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg,  also  a  little 
salt  and  paprika  pepper,  into  a  mixing  basin, 
and  mix  till  quite  smooth  with  a  wooden  spoon, 


110  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

then  stir  in  slowly  a  gill  of  Lucca  oil,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  a  tablespoonful  of 
Harvey  sauce,  a  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence 
2  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  pulp,  and  the  strained 
juice  of  a  fresh  lemon.  Mix  all  well  together, 
and  serve  as  required  for  grilled  fish  or  grilled 
meat  (use  it  as  cold  meat  sauce  or  as  a  salad 
sauce). 

Balmoral  Sauce:  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  quart 
of  vinegar,  2  ounces  of  currants,  1  ounce  of 
raisins,  a  pint  of  green  gooseberries,  and  2  ounces 
of  Demerara  sugar;  let  all  simmer  slowly  for 
half  an  hour,  then  put  into  a  bowl  a  teaspoonful 
of  mustard,  a  teaspoonful  of  turmeric,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  mace,  and  a  good  pinch  of  salt;  mix 
together  with  y2  pint  of  tarragon  vinegar.  Pass 
all  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  mix  well  together. 
Put  the  sauce  into  bottles  well  corked,  where  it 
will  keep  for  any  length  of  time. 

Chutney  Catsup:  Peel,  quarter  and  core  1 
dozen  large  sour  apples,  and  pass  them  through 
a  mincing  machine,  together  with  6  tomatoes, 
4  peeled  and  sliced  onions,  and  %  Ib.  of  stoned 
raisins.  Boil  one  quart  of  malt  vinegar  and  one 
quart  of  cider  vinegar  for  10  minutes,  with  y2 
Ib.  of  brown  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  and 
a  spice  bag  containing  one  whole  nutmeg,  a 
piece  of  ginger  root,  a  pounded  stick  of  cinna- 
mon, 12  whole  cloves,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
allspice.  Then  add  the  minced  vegetables  and 
fruit,  and  cook  all  gently  to  the  consistency  of 
a  puree.  Put  it  into  air  tight  jars  or  wide 
mouthed  bottles. 

Cucumber  Catsup:  Peel  and  grate  or  chop  2 
dozen  small  ripe  cucumbers,  put  them  into  a  large 
basin  or  pan,  sprinkle  over  with  salt,  and  allow 
them  to  stand  covered  for  three  hours,  then  pour 
off  the  liquid  formed.  Measure  the  pulp,  and 
to  every  quart  add  2  peeled  and  finely  chopped 
Spanish  onions,  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper 
and  a  teaspoonful  each  of  salt,  ground  cloves, 
and  allspice.  Bring  slowly  to  the  boil,  pouring 
in  gradually  as  the  catsup  begins  to  simmer  a 
quart  of  French  wine  vinegar.  Cook  for  15 
minutes,  and  when  cold  pour  into  bottles  or 
glass  jars,  cork  and  seal. 


THE  BOOK  OF   SAUCES  111 

Cumberland  Catsup:  Put  into  an  earthenware 
jar  6  Ibs,  of  white  or  red  grapes,  place  the  jar 
in  a  larger  vessel  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  until 
the  skins  of  the  grapes  burst.  Strain  the  juice 
carefully  into  a  clean  cooking  vessel,  and  return 
to  the  fire,  add  to  each  quart  of  grape  juice  ^ 
Ib.  of  granulated  sugar,  1  pint  of  vinegar,  a 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  a  tablesponful  of  whole 
cloves,  half  a  grated  nutmeg,  a  teasponful  ground 
allspice,  and  a  tablespoonful  ground  cinnamon. 
Boil  slowly  for  about  an  hour,  pour  whilst  hot 
into  bottle,  and  cork  them  well. 

Mushroom  Catsup:  Wipe  half  a  bushel  of 
freshly  gathered  mushrooms  with  a  damp  cloth, 
and  arrange  in  layers  in  a  large  stone  jar, 
sprinkle  each  layer  liberally  with  fine  salt.  Let 
them  remain  thus  for  about  12  hours.  Mash 
up  the  mushrooms  well  with  a  potato  masher, 
carefully  straining  off  the  juice  through  a  fine 
sieve  or  berry  press.  Add  to  this  liquid  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  black  pepper,  half  a  dozen  whola 
cloves,  and  2  sticks  of  cinnamon  to  each  pint 
of  mushroom  liquor,  then  boil  slowly  until  re- 
duced about  one-half,  strain  through  a  muslin 
bag  or  cheesecloth,  and  dilute  with  2  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  spiced  vinegar  to  every  pint  of  catsup. 
Put  into  bottles,  cork  and  capsule  or  seal  them. 

Tomato  Catsup:  Take  3  or  4  Ibs.  of  ripe  to- 
matoes and  mash  them  up,  to  this  add  2  large 
onions  peeled  and  chopped,  4  green  peppers  also 
chopped  finely,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  3  table- 
spoonfuls  of  moist  or  Demerara  sugar,  %  gill 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  1  tablespoonful  of  crushed 
whole  cinnamon,  1  dessertspoonful  of  mustard, 
and  half  a  grated  nutmeg.  Put  all  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  .3  quarts  of  vinegar,  boil  gently  until 
all  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  cooked,  which 
will  take  about  3  hours,  then  strain  and  bottle 
while  hot. 

Walnut  Catsup:  Boil  some  green  walnuts  till 
tender  in  sufficient  water  to  well  cover  them, 
then  press  them  and  measure  the  liquid.  To 
each  gallon  of  this  add  *4  Ib.  anchovies,  and  4  oz. 
shallots,  peeled  and  cut  up  small,  %  ounce  cloves, 
y2  ounce  mace,  and  1  clove  of  garlic  bruised  or 


112  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

crushed.  Boil  for  about  20  minutes,  then  strain 
and  bottle  and  cork. 

Dunraven  Sauce:  Mash  up  6  ripe  tomatoes  and 
4  large  peeled  and  cooked  apples,  and  pass  them 
through  a  wire  sieve.  Put  these  into  a  large 
jar,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  horse- 
radish, a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  glass  of 
port  wine,  the  juice  of  2  lemons,  a  quart  of  wal- 
nut catsup,  an  ounce  of  moist  sugar,  also  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  a/£  teaspoonful  of  cayenne 
pepper.  Mix  these  ingredients  well  together, 
boil  up,  skim  and  strain,  then  bottle  and  cork. 

Empress  Sauce:  Peel  and  chop  finely  2  onions, 
fry  them  in  2  ounces  of  clarified  butter  till  of 
a  light  brown  color,  add  half  a  dozen  chillies  or 
capricums,  cut  into  small  pieces  and  ^  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Stir  all  well  together  for  a 
few  minutes,  and  whilst  stirring  add  the  strained 
juice  of  a  lemon,  %  pint  of  vinegar,  a  pint  of 
tomato  pulp,  a  little  water,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  Liebig's  Extract  of  Meat  or  Marmite 
Extract.  Bub  all  through  a  fine  sieve,  boil  up 
again,  then  bottle  and  use  as  required. 

Madras  Sauce:  Put  into  a  large  jar  6  chopped 
ripe  tomatoes,  4  green  cooking  apples  (peeled 
and  chopped),  a  few  sprigs  of  green  tarragon,  2 
capsicums,  2  ounces  sultanas,  1  ounce  stoned 
raisins,  2  ounces  Demerara  sugar,  and  a  quart 
of  vinegar.  Put  the  jar  in  a  slow  oven  for  2 
hours.  Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  grated  horse-radish  a  teaspoonful  of 
ground  ginger,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Rub 
the  contents  of  the  jar  through  a  fine  sieve, 
add  to  the  other  ingredients,  boil  again  and 
bottle  and  cork  when  cold. 

Newcastle  Sauce:  Pound  in  a  mortar  an  ounce 
of  black  peppercorns,  and  mix  with  y2  ounce  of 
allspice,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  dust  of 
coralline  pepper,  an  ounce  of  grated  horse-radish, 
and  4  shallots  peeled  and  chopped  finely.  Put 
these  ingredients  into  a  jar  with  a  pint  of  good 
mushroom  catsup,  together  with  a  pint  of  Wor- 
cester sauce  and  about  half  an  ounce  of  bruised 
ginger.  Cover  the  jar  and  let  it  stand  for  a 
fortnight,  then  strain  off  the  sauce  and  bottle 
for  use. 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  113 

Onion  Sauce:  Put  into  an  earthenware  jar 
an  ounce  of  cayenne  or  a  similar  quantity  of 
bruised  capsicum  or  red  pepper,  a  pint  of  small 
peeled  button  onions,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
3  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  Soy,  and  */£  gill  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  then  boil  up  3  pints  of  vine- 
gar and  pour  over  the  ingredients.  Cover  the 
jar  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  about  a  week, 
shaking  it  frequently.  Boil  up  the  liquid  with 
another  half  pint  of  vinegar,  and  pour  it  back 
on  to  the  ingredients  in  the  jar.  Allow  it  to 
stand  for  another  week,  then  strain  and  bottle 
for  use. 

Queen  Mary  Sauce  (Sauce  Eeine-Marie) :  This 
is  a  rich  brown  sauce  made  with  meat  gravy 
basis,  thickened  with  Espagnole  and  reduced 
with  a  little  port  wine,  then  add  finely  chopped 
fried  shallots,  chopped  parsley,  and  a  little  an- 
chovy essence  to  flavor. 

Salad  Dressing:  Rub  the  yolks  of  3  hard-boiled 
eggs  through  a  seive  into  a  basin,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  Demerara  sugar,  one  tablespoonful 
of  mustard,  2  tablespoonfuls  of  tarragon  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  chilli  vinegar,  also  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  sauce.  Mix  these  well  to- 
gether, then  add  by  degrees  half  a  pint  of  cream 
(two  or  three  days  old  if  procurable).  Should 
a  large  quantity  be  made,  this  dressing  will  keep 
good  for  one  month  if  kept  tightly  corked  in 
a  cool  place. 

Salad  Dressing:  (No.  2):  Put  the  yolks  of 
three  fresh  eggs  into  a  basin,  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  little  mignonette  pepper,  a 
teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  a  pinch  of  Eng- 
lish mustard,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  castor  sugar, 
mix  well,  then  stir  in  gradually  about  half  a 
pint  of  salad  oil,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  tarra- 
gon vinegar  and  a  dessertspoonful  of  chilli  vine- 
gar. Stir  or  whisk  well  together  until  of  a 
creamlike  texture,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
boiling  hot  water,  and  lastly  about  a  gill  of 
cream. 

Spanish  Salad  Dressing:  Put  into  a  mixing 
basin  1  gill  of  cream,  1  pint  of  wine  vinegar, 
Y2  ounce  of  castor  sugar,  y2  teaspoonful  of 


114  THE  BOOK  OF   SAUCES 

cayenne,  1  dessertspoonful  of  salt,  1  dessert- 
spoonful of  mustard,  and  mix  all  thoroughly. 
Cream  an  ounce  of  butter,  adding  the  yolks  of 
3  eggs  at  the  same  time,  then  stir  in  about  half 
a  gill  of  boiling  water.  Whisk  to  a  froth  the 
whites  of  2  eggs,  and  add  this  also,  then  blend 
both  mixtures.  Stand  the  basin  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water,  and  whisk  until  the  sauce  is 
quite  warm,  lastly  stir  in  about  a  gill  of  Lucca 
or  olive  oil.  The  oil  should,  however,  not  be 
added  until  the  sauce  has  cooled  off  a  little. 
Bottle  and  cork  the  sauce,  and  use  as  required. 
It  is  well  to  always  shake  the  bottle  before 
using  the  dressing. 

Tarragon  Cream  Sauce:  Put  into  a  basin  the 
yolks  of  2  eggs,  stir  well  till  smooth,  and  add 
gradually  %  pint  of  good  salad  oil;  when  creamy 
add  %  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  made 
mustard,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  2  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  anchovy  essence,  a  gill  of  tarragon  vine- 
gar, a  gill  of  thick  cream,  and  2  tablespoonfuls 
of  castor  sugar.  Mix  well  together  and  bottle 
the  sauce.  Shake  well  before  using,  as  the 
ingredients  settle  at  the  bottom.  This  sauce 
is  excellent  with  all  kinds  of  cold  meat,  or  may 
be  used  with  any  kind  of  salad. 

Tarragon  Herb  Sauce:  Einse  in  cold  water  a 
bunch  of  tarragon  with  a  little  chervil  and  a 
small  proportion  of  other  sweet  herbs,  then  drain 
thoroughly  on  a  cloth.  Strip  off  the  leaves  into 
an  earthenware  jar,  pour  over  a  quart  of  boiling 
vinegar,  cover  closely  and  allow  to  stand  for  one 
or  two  days,  then  strain,  and  mix  with  one-third 
of  Tomato  Catsup  and  one-third  of  Harvey  or 
Worcestershire  sauce.  The  sauce  is  then  ready 
for  bottling. 

Tomato  Sauce:  Cut  6  pounds  of  ripe  tomatoes 
into  slices,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
2  large  onions  peeled  and  sliced,  ^  pound  of 
Demerara  sugar,  an  ounce  of  salt,  %  an  ounce 
of  peppercorns,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne 
pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  ground  cloves,  and  4 
ounces  of  allspice.  Pour  over  two  quarts  of 
vinegar  and  boil  gently  for  2  hours.  Stir  fre- 
quently to  prevent  burning,  then  rub  all  through 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES  115 

a  fine  sieve.  When  the  sauce  is  cold,  add  a 
little  carmine  to  give  it  a  nice  reddish  color, 
then  bottle  securely  and  store  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Tomato  Sauce  (No.  2):  Wipe  the  required 
quantity  of  ripe  tomatoes  with  a  cloth,  and 
bake  the  fruit  in  a  slow  oven  until  tender.  Next 
rub  all  through  a  sieve  and  measure  the  pulp 
thus  obtained.  To  each  quart  of  pulp  add  a  pint 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  *4  ounce  shallots  and  1 
clove  of  garlic,  both  peeled  and  bruised,  also 
1  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  essence.  Boil  all  in 
a  copper  pan  until  the  shallots  are  tender.  Now 
rub  all  through  a  sieve  again,  and  re-boil  with. 
%  pint  of  vinegar  and  1  gill  of  Indian  Soy  to 
every  quart  of  tomato  pulp. 

Tomato  Chutnee  Sauce:  Peel  and  slice  6  large- 
sized  tomatoes,  add  to  them  4  sour  apples  peeled 
and  sliced,  put  into  a  stewpan  with  4  Spanish 
onions  peeled  and  sliced,  a  dozen'  chillies,  6 
cloves,  a  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  a  quart  of  vine- 
gar, and  boil  gently  until  all  is  thoroughly 
cooked.  Pass  all  through  a  fine  sieve;  color 
if  liked  with  a  little  liquid  carmine,  then  bottle 
and  cork  or  put  into  jars,  and  use  when  cold. 

Universal  Sauce  (Sauce  TJniverselle) :  This  is 
a  highly  spiced  cold  meat  sauce,  prepared  with,  a 
pint  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a  gill  of  port  wine, 
4  peeled  and  finely  chopped  shallots,  half  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  ground  whole  spice,  mace  and  cayenne 
pepper  to  taste.  Mix  well  and  allow  to  mature 
before  using. 

Worcestershire  Sauce:  Take  3  quarts  of  strong 
vinegar,  1  Ib.  of  split  raisins,  1  Ib.  garlic,  *4  lb. 
eschalot,  %  ounce  cayenne,  ^  ounce  powdered 
ginger,  salt  to  taste,  small  bottle  of  anchovies, 
and  mushroom  ketchup.  Boil  the  anchovies, 
garlic,  eschalot,  and  raisins  in  a  quart  of  the 
vinegar  in  an  iron  saucepan  until  it  can  be  pulped 
through  a  hair  sieve,  then  boil  all  together  for 
a  few  minutes.  Bottle  when  cold.  It  is  essential 
that  the  ingredients  should  be  thoroughly  boiled 
before  being  pulped. 

Worcestershire  Sauce  (No.  2) :  Put  into  a 
mortar  %  ounce  capsicums  or  sweet  peppers,  % 
ounce  peeled  shallots  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  and 


116  THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 

pound  till  quite  smooth.  Add  a  little  vinegar 
and  put  all  into  a  large  jar;  boil  up  one  quart 
of  vinegar  and  pour  it  over  the  pounded  ingre- 
dients, add  also  a  pint  of  walnut  ketchup.  Cover 
the  jar  and  allow  it  to  stand  for  some  weeks,  or 
long  enough  to  extract  the  flavor  of  the  ingre- 
dients used,  then  strain  and  bottle  for  use. 

Yankee  Sauce:  Put  into  a  saucepan  1  quart 
of  vinegar,  %  oz.  allspice,  44  oz.  ground  cloves, 
44  oz.  black  pepper,  y2  oz.  mustard,  2  ozs. 
ground  Jamaica  ginger,  44  oz.  salt,  44  oz.  garlic, 
2  ozs.  sugar,  8  ozs.  tamarinds,  1  oz.  curry  pow- 
der, 44  oz.  cayenne  pepper,  y2  pint  sherry. 

Mix  the  ingredients  well  together,  and  sim- 
mer gently  for  about  an  hour,  adding  enough 
vinegar  from  time  to  time  to  make  up  for  loss 
by  evaporation.  Let  stand  for  a  week,  then 
strain  and  bottle.  A  little  burnt  sugar  (cara- 
mel) or  soy  may  be  added  to  give  the  sauce  a 
better  color. 


FLAVORING  OB  COMPOUND  BUTTERS. 


Flavoring  butters  are  used  for  numerous  culi- 
nary purposes;  they  were  originally  introduced 
for  imparting  a  specially  desired  flavor  to 
sauces,  and  for  this  purpose  they  are  still 
largely  used.  They  are  also  very  convenient 
and  useful  to  serve  with  grilled  meat  and  grilled 
fish,  for  sandwiches  and  toasts.  The  taste  for 
hors-d'oeuvre  and  savories  has  increased  consid- 
erably during  the  past  few  years.  Flavoring 
butters  or  beurres  composes,  as  they  are  termed 
in  kitchen  French,  have  been  largely  introduced 
in  many  other  preparations  besides  those  above 
named.  They  are  used  under  the  titles  hors- 
d'oeuvre  and  savories.  They  have  also  proved 
eminently  satisfactory  when  used  for  sauces, 
i.  e.,  "compound  sauces." 

Flavoring  butter  is  added  to  sauces  at  the  last 
moment  before  being  served,  the  object  being 
«o  give  a  sauce  the  requisite  fresh-butter  flavor, 
which  is  deemed  most  essential  to  a  well  pre- 
pared sauce,  as  it  imparts  at  the  same  time  the 
and  distinctive  aroma  of  the  condi- 


THE   BOOK   OP    SAUCES  117 

ment  from  which  the  butter  obtains  its  name. 
Most  cooks  are  aware  that  besides  the  use  of 
these  butters  for  sauces  there  are  many  other 
ways  in  which  they  can  be  employed,  for  they 
are  eminently  suitable  for  all  kinds  of  sand- 
wiches and  for  dainty,  savory  croutes;  the  addi- 
tion of  a  nicely  blended  butter  makes  a  won- 
derful improvement  both  in  appearance  and 
flavor  to  such  dishes.  Several  of  these  butters 
will  be  found  excellent  with  cold  game,  cold 
duck,  cold  beef  or  mutton;  others  may  be  used 
for  spreading  toasts,  biscuits,  etc.  For  deco- 
rating little  cold  hors-d'oeuvre  and  savories 
these  butters  are  exceedingly  useful,  as  they  en- 
hance the  appearance  of  many  such  dishes. 

Take  the  humble  maitre  d 'hotel  butter  as  an 
example,  and  you  will  have  some  idea  of  the 
many  purposes  for  which  flavoring  butters  can 
be  used. 

The  following  recipes  comprise  the  most  pop- 
ular and  most  useful  flavoring  butters.  Each 
one  possesses  all  the  essentials  of  an  appetizing, 
tasty,  and  well  seasoned  compound. 

Anchovy  Butter  (Beurre  d'Anchois):  Ingredi- 
ents: Six  Gorgona  anchovies,  two  ounces  and 
a  half  of  butter,  and  half  a  lemon.  Method: 
Soak  the  anchovies  in  cold  water,  drain,  take 
out  the  bones,  wipe  dry  with  a  cloth,  pound  in 
a  mortar  with  the  butter,  add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  spread  on  a 
plate,  put  on  the  ice,  and  use  as  directed. 

Chutney  Butter  (Beurre  a  la  Madras):  In- 
gredients: Four  ounces  of  Mango  chutney,  1 
tablespoonful  of  French  mustard,  6  to  8  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  and  lemon  juice.  Method: 
Pound  the  chutney  in  a  mortar,  add  the  French 
mustard,  and  work  in  the  fresh  butter,  season 
to  taste,  and  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice. 
Rub  through  a  hair  sieve,  place  it  on  the  ice, 
and  use  as  required. 

Devilled  Butter  (Beurre  a  la  Diable):    1%  oz. 

butter,  1/2  teaspoonful  cayenne  pepper,  1  salt- 
spoonful  black  pepper,  curry  powder,  ground 
ginger.  Mix  the  butter  with  the  cayenne  pep- 
per, black  pepper,  a  pinch  of  curry  powder,  and 


1*8  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

a  pinch  of  ground  ginger.  Spread  on  a  plate, 
and  use  for  grilled  cutlets,  chops,  etc. 

Mint  Butter:  Take  1  oz.  butter,  perfectly 
fresh  (unsalted)  and  mix  with  2  teaspoonfuls  of 
finely  chopped  green  mint,  add  also  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  ."juice,  and  blend  this  well  with  the 
butter. 

Note:  Besides  being  useful  to  impart  mint 
flavor  to  certain  sauces,  mint  butter  is  delicious 
for  spreading  thin  slices  of  bread,  when  a 
dainty  sandwich  made  of  minced  lamb  is  de- 
sired. 

Pimiento  Butter:  Drain  a  Spanish  pimiento, 
cut  it  up  small,  and  pound  it  till  smooth  in  a 
mortar  with  4-6  oz.  of  fresh  butter  and  a  little 
lemon- juice,  then  rub  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
season  to  taste. 

Horse-Radish  Butter  (Beurre  de  Eaifort):  % 
stick  horseradish,  4  oz.  butter,  1  teaspoonful 
chilli  vinegar,  1  teaspoonful  lemon-juice.  Wash 
the  horse-radish,  scrape  off  the  outer  skin,  and 
grate  finely  with  white  part.  Mix  with  the 
butter,  the  chilli  vinegar,  and  lemon-juice,  and 
season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Kub  through  & 
fine  sieve,  spread  on  a  plate,  and  put  on  the  ice. 
Cut  into  diamond  shapes  or  little  rounds,  and 
serve  with  grilled  fillets  of  beef  (tournedos)  or 
steaks. 

Tomato  Butter  (Beurre  au  Tomate):  Peel 
and  free  from  moisture  3  small  ripe  tomatoes, 
pound  them  in  a  mortar  with  the  same  weight 
of  butter,  then  cook  quickly  over  the  fire,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  and  rub  through  a 
fine  sieve  or  tammy. 

Spanish  Butter  (Beurre  Espagnol) :  2  oz. 
lean  ham,  2  tablespoonfuls  espagnole  sauce,  6  oz. 
fresh  butter,  nutmeg.  Pound  the  ham  in  a 
mortar  till  smooth,  then  add  the  well  reduced 
espagnole  sauce;  incorporate  by  degrees  the 
butter,  season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  finely 
grated  nutmeg,  and  rub  through  a  hair  sieve. 
Keep  on  the  ice  till  wanted. 

Beurre  Maitre  d* Hotel  or  Parsley  Butter:  1 
oz.  fresh  butter,  1  teaspoonful  chopped  parsley, 
1  saltspoonful  of  chopped  mixed  tarragon  and 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES  119 

chervil,  1  teaspoonful  lemon-juice.  Mix  the 
butter  with  the  parsley,  tarragon,  chervil, 
lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  pepper.  Spread 
on  a  plate,  put  on  the  ice,  and  shape  into  pats 
when  quite  firm. 

Watercress  Butter  (Beurre  de  Ruisseau):  In- 
gredients: Watercress,  fresh  butter,  white  pep- 
per, and  salt.  Method:  Pick  the  leaves  of  the 
required  quantity  of  watercress,  dry  them  in  a 
cloth,  and  mince  them  as  fine  as  possible,  then 
knead  them  with  as  much  fresh  butter  as  they 
will  take  up,  adding  a  very  little  salt  and  white 
pepper.  Put  the  mixture  thus  obtained  on  a 
plate,  spread  it  out  evenly,  and  place  on  the  ice. 
Stamp  out  some  little  rounds  and  serve  in  a  glass 
dish,  or  use  for  other  purposes  as  described. 

Ham  Butter  (Beurre  au  Jambon):  Ingredi- 
ents: Four  ounces  of  cooked  lean  ham,  2  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  double 
cream,  salt,  and  cayenne.  Method:  Pound  the 
finely  chopped  lean  ham,  add  the  butter  and 
double  cream;  season  to  taste  with  white  pepper  and 
cayenne.  Pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  it  on 
the  ice,  and  use  as  required. 

Lobster  Butter  (Beurre  de  Homard) :  Ingredi- 
ents: Lobster  spawn  and  coral  and  fresh  but- 
ter. Method:  Procure  the  eggs  (spawn)  and 
coral  of  a  lobster,  pound  till  smooth  in  a  mor- 
tar with  double  its  quantity  of  fresh  butter, 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place  till  required. 

Montpellier  Butter  (Beurre  Montpellier) :  In- 
gredients: Two  ounces  of  parsley,  chervil,  tar- 
ragon, chives,  and  "cress;  2  anchovies,  9  yolks 
of  hard-boiled  eggs,  3  ounces  of  butter,  1  tea- 
spoonful  of  capers,  and  1  gherkin.  Method: 
Wash  and  pick  the  parsley,  cress  and  herbs; 
blanch  for  three  minutes,  strain,  and  cool. 
Drain  well  in  a  cloth  and  pound  in  a  mortar. 
Put  this  on  a  plate  and  clean  the  mortar.  Wipe 
and  bone  the  anchovies;  pound  them  in  a  mor- 
tar with  the  egg  yolks,  capers,  and  gherkins. 
When  quite  smooth  add  the  butter,  lastly  the 
green  puree.  Mix  the  whole  well  together. 
Put  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  use  as  required. 


120  THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 

A  little  spinach  greening  may  be  added  if  the 
herbs  should  not  color  the  butter  sufficiently. 

Paprika  Butter  (Eeurre  au  Paprika):  In- 
gredients: Four  ounces  of  fresh  butter  and  1 
teaspoonful  of  paprika  (Hungarian  pepper). 
Method:  Put  the  paprika  on  a  clean  plate  with 
the  butter,  and  mix  it  to  a  smooth  paste,  then 
put  it  on  ice  or  in  a  cool  place  and  use  when 
required. 

Bavigote,  or  Green  Herb  Butter  (Beurre 
Ravigote):  Ingredients:  1^  ozs.  chervil,  2  ozs. 
of  spinach,  iy%  ozs.  of  green  chives,  1  oz.  of 
tarragon,  %  oz.  of  parsley,  3  or  4  shallots,  6^ 
ozs.  of  butter,  pepper,  and  salt.  Method:  Wash 
and  pick  the  chervil,  spinach,  green  chives,  tar- 
ragon, and  parsley.  Put  it  in  a  sauce-pan  with 
water  and  blanch.  Drain  well  and  pound  in  a 
mortar.  Peel  3  or  4  shallots,  chop  finely,  cook 
them  in  a  little  butter  until  of  a  golden  color, 
and  put  with  the  herbs;  work  in  6  ozs.  of  but- 
ter, rub  through  a  fine  sieve,  add  a  little  pepper 
and  salt  and  spinach  greening  if  necessary.  The 
butter  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Shrimp  or  Crayfish  Butter  (Beurre  d'Ecre- 
visses):  Ingredients:  %  pint  of  picked  shrimps 
or  prawns,  3  ozs.  of  fresh  butter,  and  %  oz.  of 
anchovy  paste.  Method:  Pound  the  picked 
shrimps  or  prawns  in  a  mortar  till  smooth,  add 
the  fresh  butter,  and  anchovy  paste;  mix  thor- 
oughly and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Keep  on 
the  ice  till  wanted.  A  little  liquid  carmine  or 
cochineal  may  be  added  to  color  if  found  neces- 
sary. 


INDEX 


A  Admiral  sauce 34 
Aigre-douche  sauce 34 

Albany  sauce 35,  109 

Albert  sauce 35 

Albufera  sauce 35 

Allemande  sauce 35 

Allspice 20 

Almond  sauce 100 

t  Almond  sauce  for  fruit  salad 100 

[Almond  cream  sauce 100 

-American  (Americaine)  sauce. . .  35 
>Anchois,  beurre  d't  117;  Cremed'  36 

•Anchoia  aux  oeufs  sauce 36 

*  Anchovy  butter,  117;  cream 36 

Anchovy  (anchois)  sauce 35 

lAnchovy  egg  sauce 36 

'Apple  sauce  (and  brown) 9< 

'Apricot  sauce 101 

Aromatic  herbs,  23;  plants 22 

^Aromatic  spice 22 

Aspic  cream,  49;  creme  a  1' 49 

Aspic  jelly,  34;  mayonnaise. ...  36 
Aspic,  tomato  (a  la  tomate) —  36 
Auxiliary  recipes  for  sauces.  ...  30 

;Aurora  sauce 36 

'  Avignonese  (Avignonnaise)  sauce  36 
Ayola  sauce 36 

8   Balmoral  sauce. 110 
Banana  cream  sauce 101 

fU/una  and  rhubarb  sauce 106 

Basil 25 

•Batarde  sauce  (cold)  (hot). .  .36,  37 

teavaroise  sauce 36 

Bay-leaves 25 

Bearnaise  sauce 36 

iBearnaise  s'ce  (brune)  (tomate) .  38 

'Bechamel  sauce 11,  13,  38 

Bechamel  sc.,  maigre  (and  white).  38 

'Beef  marrow  sauce 88 

[Beefsteak  sauce 39 

Bercy  sauce 39 

>Seurre  d'anchois 117 

'Beurre  Cremeuse  sauce 43 

Beurre  a  la  diable 117 

Seurre  d'ecrevisses 120 

•3eurre  Espagnol 118 

;3eurre  de  homard 119 

3eurre  au  jambon 1 19 

ieurre  a  la  Madras 117 

\  3eurre,  maitre  d'hotel 118 

\ 'Bern-re  Montpellier 119 

I  Seurre  noir,  41;  sauce 39 

|»3eurre  au  paprika 120 

L- Jeurre  de  Raifort 118 

i  3etirre  Ravigote 120 

[  Ueurre  de  Ruisseau 119 

I  ieurre,  Sauce  au 42 

Jeurre  au  tomate 118 

3igarde  sauce 39 

I  Slack  butter  sauce 39 

\  Slanc  roux 7 

\  Blanche  chaudfroid  sauce 47 

<  .Blanche  sauce 90 

i » Blanche  sauce  matelote 67 

i  Blanche  sauce  champignons 45 

:  banquette  sauce 39 

t  blonde  chaud-froid  sauce 47 

l  ilond  roux 7 

i  Blood  liaison 9 


Boar's  head  sauce 

Bohemian  (Bohemienne)  sauce. 

Bonne  femme  sauce 

Bonnefoy  sauce 

Bordeaux  sauce 

Bordelaise  sauce 

Bourg 


61 
39 


..  40 
...  40 
...  40 

..  42 
23,30 
...101 
101 


Bouquet  garni 

Brandy  butter 

Brandy  sauce 

Bread  sauce 40 

Breton  (Bretonne)  sauce 41 

Brown  apple  sauce 97 

Brown  butter  sauce 41 

Brown  caper  sauce 44 

Brown  (brune)  chaudfroid  sauce.  47 

Brown  fish  sauce 42 

Brown  fish  sauce,  rich 56 

Brown  gravy 63 

Brown  herb  sauce 48 

Brown  mushroom  sauce 45 

Brown  (brim)  roux 8 

Brown  sauces 13.16 

Brown  sauce  vs.  Espagnole 11 

Brown  savory  sauce 16 

Brune  sauce,  bearnaise 3* 

Brune  sauce  aux  capres 44 

Brune  sauce,  champignons 45 

Brune  sauce,  matelote 67 

Brune  sauce,  pour  poisson 4z 

Bulgare  sauce 42 

Bulgarian  sauce,  cold 42 

Burgundy  sauce 42 

BuiST:. 24 

Butter,  anchory 117 

Butter,  brandy 101 

Butter,  chutney 117 

Butters,  compound 116 

Butter.  crayfihTT. 120 

Butter,  devilled 117 

Butters,  flavoring 116 

Butter,  green  hero 120 

Batter,  ham 119 

Butter,  horseradish 1 18 

Butter  liaison,  8;  kneaded. 0 

Butter,  lobster 119 

Butter,  mint 118 

Butter,  Montpellier 119 

Butter,  paprika 120 

Butter,  parsley 118 

Butter,  pimiento 118 

Butter  ravigote 120 

Batter  sauce,  42;  creamed 43 

Butter  sauce,  melted 60 

Butter  sauce,  sweet  melted 108 

Butter,  shrimp 120 

Butter,  Spanish 118 

Butter,  tomato 118 

Butter,  watercress 119 

Byron  sauce 43 


CCalvinesaoee 43 
Cambridge  sauce,  43;  cold. .  44 

Canopere  sauce 44 

Caper  sauce  (and  brown) 44 

Capres,  sauce  aux 44 

Capres,  brune  sauce  aux 44 

Caper  mayonnaise 95 

Capsicum 25 

Caramel,  liquid 33 


122 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 


Caramel  sauce 101 

Cardinal  sauce 44 

Cardinale,  mayonnaise  a  la 95 

Carrots 27 

Catsup,  chutney  (cucumber) 110 

Catsup,  Cumberland,  mushroom, 

tomato,  walnut Ill 

Cayenne  pepper 22 

Celeri,  creme  de 45 

Celery  cream  sauce 45 

Celery  sauce 44 

Champagne  sauce 45 

Champignons  sauce  blanche 45 

Champignons  sauce,  brune 45 

Chasseur  sauce  (Royal) 46 

Chateaubriand  sauce 48 

Chaudeau  sauce 102 

Chaudfroids 16 

Chaudfroid      sauce,       blanche, 
blonde,  brown  (brune),  fawn, 

green,  pink,  white 47 

Chaudfroid  sauce,  sweet 107 

Chaude  sauce  aux  concombres.. .  50 

Chaude  sauce,  raifort 61 

Chaud  sauce,  ravigote 79 

Cherry  sauce 98,  102 

Chervil 24 

Chestnut  sauce 47 

Chestnut  sauce  (savory)  (sweet) .  48 

Chevreuil  sauce 48 

Chicken  essence 32 

Chicken,  hot  sauce  for  fried 78 

Chocolate  sauce  (cold) 102 

Chopped  parsley 32 

Chutnee  sauce,  tomato 115 

Chutney  butter,  117;  catsup. . .  .110 

Chutney  sauce 48 

Cinnamon 21 

Citron,  sauce  au 63 

Claret  sauce 103 

Cloves 20 

Coffee  sauce 103 

Colbert  sauce  aux  fines  herbes ...  48 

Cold  batarde  sauce 37 

Cold  Bulgarian  sauce 42 

)old  Cambridge  sauce 44 

\Jold  chocolate  sauce 102 

Jold  cucumber  sauce 49 

Cold  game  sauce 50 

Dold  horseradish  cream 61 

Cold  puddings,  sweet  sauces  for .  100 

Cold  ravigotte  sauce 79 

Cold  salad  sauces 16 

Cold  sauces 15 

Cold  strawberry  sauce 108 

Cold  Swedish  sauce 84 

Cold  sweet  sauces 16 

Coffee  custard  sauce 103 

Compound  butters 116 

Compound  sauces 34 

Concombres,  chaude  sauce  aux. .  50 

Concombres,  sauce  aux 49 

Condiment scs.  (table)  (kitchen).  109 

Coriander 21 

Cornflour  sauce 108 

Crab  sauce 50 

Cranberry  sauce 50,  98 

Crapaudine  sauce 46 

Crayfish  butter,  120;  sauce 52 

Cream  anchovy 36 


Cream,  aspic 49 

Cream,  cold  horseradish 61 

Cream  liaison 8 

Cream  sauce 49 

Cream  sauce,  banana 101 

Cream  sauce,  celery 45 

Cream  savory 49 

Cream  sauce,  tomato 86 

Cream  sauce,  tarragon 114 

Creamed  butter  sauce 43 

Creme  d'  anchois 36 

Creme  a  1'aspic 49 

Creme  de  celeri 45 

Creme  de  Raifort,  froid 61 

Creme,  sauce  a  la 49 

Creme  a  la  tomate  sauce 86 

Cremeuse  sauce,  beurre 43 

Crevettes,  sauce  aux 82 

Croutes,  sweet  sauces  for 100 

Cucumber  catsup 110 

Cucumber  sauce,  hot,  cold 49,  50 

Cumberland  catsup Ill 

Cumberland  sauce 50,  95 

Curacoa  sauce 104 

Curry 21 

Curry  sauce,  Indian 62 

Curry  (currie)  sauce 51 

Custard  sauce  (coffee) 103 

Cutlets,  reforme,  sauce  for 79 

T\  Damso^  sauce 98 

*-^  Danish  (Danoise)  sauce ....  51 

Demi-glace  sauce 51 

Demi-pro vencale  sauce 78 

Devilled  butter  (beurre) 117 

Deviled  sauce 52 

Diable,  sauce  (a  la) .52, 95 

Distinction  between  gravies  and 

sauces 6 

Dressing,  salad  (Spanish) 113 

Duchesse  sauce 52 

Dunraven  sauce 112 

Dutch  sauce,  58,  59;  green 60 

Duxelle  puree 31 

EEchalote  sauce 52 
Ecrevisses,  beurre  d' 120 

Ecrevisses,  sauce  (aux) 52 

Egg  liaison 8 

Egg  sauce,  72;  anchovy 36 

Empress  sauce 112 

Epicure  (epicurean)  sauce ....  52,  53 

Espagnol,  beurre 118 

Espagnole  vs.  brown  sauce 11 

Espagnole  sauce 11,  53 

Essence,  chicken 32 

Essence  de  Gibier  sauce 54 

Essence,  to  make 10 

Essences  of  meat 10 

Essence  de  volaille 32 

Estragon,  sauce  a  1' 54 

F  Farinaceous  liaison 9 

Farmhouse  sauce 54 

Fawn  chaudfroid  sauce 47 

Fawn  roux 7 

Fennel  (fenouil)  sauce 54 

Fermiere  sauce 54 

Financiere  sauce 54 

Fine  herb  sauce 65 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 


123 


Fines  herbes  sauce,  Colbert 48 

Fines  herbes,  mayonnaise  aux. . .  94 

Fish  sauce,  brown 42 

Fish  sauce,  rich  brown 56 

Fish  sauce  (white) 91 

Fish,  savory  sauces  for 34 

Fish  stock 30 

Flamande  sauce 54 

Flavoring  butters 116 

Flavoring  and  seasoning 17 

Flemish  sauce 54 

Fleurette  sauce 54 

Foam  sauce 104 

Frappee,  Raifort  sauce 61 

Fried  Chicken,  hot  sauce  for 78 

Fritters,  sweet  sauces  for 100 

Froid  creme  de  raifort 61 

Froid  ravigotte  sauce 79 

Fruit  salad,  almond  sauce  for ...  100 

Fruit  sauces 97 

Fruit  timbales,  sweet  sauces  for.,100 
Fumet,  11;  of  game  (de  gibier) . .  31 

GGame  sauce,  55;  cold 50 

Game,  savory  sauces  for 34 

Game,  fumet  of 31 

Garibaldi  sauce 55 

Garlic 26 

Gelee,  mayonnaise  a  la 95 

Generate  sauce 55 

Genoise  sauce 55 

Gibier  sauce,  55;  essence  de . . . .  54 

Gibier,  fumet  de 31 

Giblet  sauce 56 

Ginger 28 

Glacee  sauce,  verte 88 

Glace  de  viande 31 

Glaze,  meat 31 

Good  woman  sauce 38 

Gooseberry  sauce 56,  98 

Gouffe  sauce 56 

Granyille  sauce 57 

Gravies  and  sauces,  distinction 

between 6 

Gravy,  brown 63 

Gravy,  without  meat 57 

Green  chaudfroid  sauce 47 

Green  Dutch  sauce 60 

Green  herb  sauce,  87;   butter ...  120 

Green  mayonnaise 94 

Green  mousseline  sauce 57,  71 

Green  sauce,  iced 88 

Gribiche  sauce 57 

Groseilles  vertes,  sauce  aux 56 

O  Hache,  persil 32 

*  *  Hachis  sauce 58 

Half-glaze  sauce 51 

Ham  butter 119 

Ham  sauce 58 

Hard  sauce 104 

Herbs,  aromatic 23 

Herb  sauce,  brown 48 

Herbes  sauce,  Colbert 48 

Herb  sauce,  line 65 

Herb  sauce,  tarragon 114 

Hessoise  sauce 58 

Hints  on  stock  making 29 

History  of  sauce  making 3 

Hollandaise  sauce   58,  59 


Hollandaise  sauce,  inexpensive . .  59 

Hollandaise  sauce,  verte 60 

Holstein  sauce 60 


Homard,  Beurre  de,  119;  sauce. .  64 

Horly  sauce 60 

Horseradish  butter 118 

Horseradish  cream,  cold 61 

Horseradish  sauce 60 

Horseradish  sauce  (hot)  (iced).. .  61 

Hot  batarde  sauce 37 

Hot  cucumber  sauce 50 

Hot  plain  sauces 15 

Hot  puddings,  sweet  sauces  for. .  100 

Hot  ravigote  sauce 79 

Hot  sauce  for  fried  chicken 78 

Hot  sauces  (list) 15 

Hot  savory  sauces 16 

Hot  strawberry  sauce 108 

Hot  Swedish  (Suedoise),  sauce . .  84 

Hot  sweet  sauces 16 

Huitres,  sauce  aux 74 

Hure  de  sanglier  sauce 61 

Ilced  green  sauce 88 
Iced  horseradish  sauce 61 

Indian  curry  sauce 62 

Indienne  sauce,  62;  remoulade. .  96 
Inexpensive  hollandaise  sauce ...  59 
Italian  (Italienne)  sauce 62 

J    Jamaica  sauce 104 
Jambon,  beurre  au 119 

Jambon  sauce 58 

Jelly  (aspic)  (savory) 34 

Joinville  sauce 62 

Juice,  meat 32 

Jus,  63;  Jus-gravy 57 

Jus  d'orange  sauce 74 

KKari  sauce 63 
Kirsch  sauce 105 

Kitchen,  condiment  sauces  for. . .  109 

Kitchen,  relish  sauces  for 109 

Kneaded  butter  liaison 9 

Krona  pepper 23 

L  Lemons 28 
Lemon  sauce,  63;  sweet. ...  107 

Liaisons 6 

Liaison,  blood,  farinaceous 9 

Liaison,  butter,  cream,  egg,  roux .     8 

Liaisons  (in  general) 32 

Liaison,  kneaded  butter 9 

Liqueur  sauce 105 

Liquid  caramel 33 

Livournaise  sauce 64 

Lobster  sauce,  64;  butter 119 

Long  pepper 22 

Lyonnaise  sauce 64 

MMace....  21 

Maderia  (Madere),  sauce. ..  64 
Madras,  beurre  a  la,  117;  sauce.  112 

Maigre  sauce,  bechamel 38 

Maintenon  sauce 6-5 

Maitre  d'hotel  beurre,  118;  sauce  65 

Malaga  sauce 65 

Maltaise  sauce 65 

Maraschino  sauce 105 

Marchand  de  vin  sauce 68 


124 


THE   BOOK   OF    SAUCES 


Marguery  sauce 66 

Marinade  sauce 66 

Mariniere  sauce 66 

Marjoram 25 

Marmalade  sauce 105 

Marseillaise  sauce 67 

Matelote  sauce  (blanche)  (brune).  67 

Maximilian  sauce 68 

Mayonnaise 92 

Mayonnaise,  aspic 36 

Mayonnaise,  caper,  cardinale, 

gelee,  truffle,  Portugaise 95 

Mayonnaise,  fine  herbes,  green, 

tomato 94 

Mayonnaise,  plain 93 

Mayonnaise  sauce,  68;  tomatee.  69 

Meat  glaze 31 

Meat  juice 32 

Meat,  savory  sauces  for 34 

Medicis  sauce 69 

Melted  butter  sauce,  69;  sweet  .108 

Menthe,  sauce  a  la 69 

Mignonette  pepper 22 

Mint,  25;  butter,  118;  sauce. ...  69 

Mirabeau  sauce 70 

Mirepoix 9 

Miroton  sauce 70 

Moelle  de  boeuf,  sauce 38 

Moka  pudding  sauce 105 

Montpellier  butter  (buerre) 119 

Mornay  sauce 70 

Moules,  sauce  aux 72 

Mousseline  sauce,  green 57,  71 

Mousseline  sauce,  sweet 108 

Mousseline  sauce,  verte 57,  71 

Mousseline  sauce,  white 70 

Moutarde  sauce 71 

Mushroom  catsup Ill 

Mushrooms,  to  chop 32 

Mushroom  sauce  (brown)  (white).  45 

Mussel  sauce 72 

Mustard,  21;  sauce 71 

NNantua  sauce 72 
Newcastle  sauce 112 

Nicoise  sauce 72 

Noisette  sauce 72 

Nonpareille  sauce 72 

Nonnande  sauce 72 

Norvegienne  sauce 72 

Nut  sauce 72 

Nutmeg 20 

Nutmeg  sauce 105 

OOeufs,  anchois,  sauce  aux. . .  36 
Oeufs,  sauce  aux 72 

Oignons,  sauce  aux 73 

Onions 26 

Onion,  to  chop 32 

Onion  sauce 73,  113 

Oporto  sauce 99 

Orange  sauce. 73,  98,  106 

Orange  sauce,  jus 74 

Orange  sauce,  sweet 108 

Orlay  sauce 60 

Oseille  sauce 74 

Oyster  sauce 74 

Overcooking  of  sauces 14 

~'~~g,  error  in 14 


PPain,  sauce  au 40 
Paprika  butter  (beurre) 120 

Paprika  sauce 75 

Parisienne  sauce 75 

Parsley 23 

Parsley  butter 118 

Parsley,  chopped 32 

Parsley  sauce 65,  75 

Pauvre  homme  sauce 77 

Pekoe  sauce 75 

Pepper,  cayenne,  long,  mignon- 
ette   22 

Pepper,  Krona 23 

Pepper  or  salt,  pinch  of 23 

Pepper  sauce 77,  96 

Perigueux  sauce 75 

Persil  hache 32 

Persil  sauce 75 

Perisilade  sauce 75 

Piment  sauce 75 

Pimiento  butter US 

Pink  chaudfroid  sauce 47 

Piquante  (tartare)  sauce 76 

Plain  mayonnaise 93 

Plain  sauces 13-15 

Plain  sauces,  hot 15 

Plants,  aromatic 23 

Poisson,  brun  sauce  pour 42 

Poiyrade  sauce 77 

Polish  sauce 77 

Polonaise  sauce 77 

Pompadour  sauce 77 

Poor  man's  sauce 77 

Portugaise,  mayonnaise  a  la 95 

Portugaise  sauce 77 

Poulette  sauce 77 

Poultry,  savory  sauces  for 34 

Prawn  sauce 52 

Preparations  from  stocks 30 

Prince  de  Galles  sauce 78 

Prince  of  Wales  sauce 78 

Princesse  sauce 78 

Provencale  sauce 78 

Pudding  sauce,  Moka 105 

Puddmgs,     sweet     sauces     for 

(cold)  (hot) 100 

Punch  syrup 106 

Puree,  Duxelle 31 

Q  Queen  Mary  sauce 113 

D  Raifort,  beurre  de 118 

•^  Raifort,  creme  de,  f  roid ....  61 
Raifort  sauce,  chaude  (f rappee). .  61 

Raisin  sauce 99 

Raisin  sauce,  red  wine 100 

Raspberry  sauce 107 

Ravigote  butter  (beurre) 120 

Ravigote  sauce 96 

Ravigote  sauce  (cold,  hot,  chaud- 
froid)   79 

Recipes,  auxiliary  or  sauces 30 

Reduction  of  sauces 15 

Red  wine  raisin  sauce 100 

Reforme  cutlets,  sauce  for 79 

Reforme  sauce 79 

Regent  (Regence),  sauce 79 

Re:ne  Marie  sauce 113 

Relish  sauces  (kitchen)  (table)..  109 
Remoulade  sauce .79,  96 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 


125 


Remoulade  sauce  a  I'lndienne. . .  96 

Rhubarb  and  banana  sauce 106 

Ricardo  sauce 80 

Rich  brown  fish  sauce 56 

Riche  sauce 80 

R'chelieu  sauce 80 

Robert  sauce 80 

Roman  (romaine)  sauce 8C 

Rouennaise  sauce 80 

Roux,  blanc,  blond,  fawn,  white.    7 
Roux,    brown    (brun),    liaison, 

stock 8 

Royal  sauce 80 

Royal  chasseur  sauce 46 

Ruisseau,  beurre  de 119 

Ruisseau  sauce 9C 

Rum  sauce 106 

Russian  (Russe)  sauce 81 

S    Sauce,  admiral 34 
Sauce  aigre  douche 34 

Sauce,  Albany 35,  109 

Sauce,  Albert 35 

Sauce,  Albufera 35 

Sauce,  Allemande 35 

Sauce,  almond  (cream) IOC 

Sauce,  almond  for  fruiv  salad 100 

Sauce  American  (Americaine) . . .  35 

Sauce  anchois  aux  oeufs 36 

Sauce  anchovy  (anchois) 35 

Sauce,  anchovy  egg 36 

Sauce,  apple 97 

Sauce,  apricot 101 

Sauce,  Aurora 36 

Sauces,  auxiliary  recipes  for 30 

Sauce  Avignonese  (aise) 36 

Sauce  ayola 36 

Sauce,  Balmoral 110 

Sauce,  banana  cream 101 

Sauce,  banana  and  rhubarb 106 

Sauce  batarde,  hot 36 

Sauce,  bavaroise 36 

Sauce,  bearnaise 36 

Sauce,  bearnaise,  brune,  tomatee  38 

Sauce,  bechamel 11,  13,  38 

Sauce,  bechamel,  maigre,  white  .  38 

Sauce,  beef  marrow 33 

Sauce,  beefsteak 39 

Sauce,  Bercy 39 

Sauce  au  beurre 42 

Sauce,  beurre  cremeuse 43 

Sauce,  beurre-noir 39 

Sauce,  bigarade 39 

Sauce  black,  butter 39 

Sauce  blanche 90 

Sauce,  blanquette 39 

Sauce,  blonde  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce,  boar's  head 61 

Sauce,  Bohemian  (Bohemienne) .  39 

Sauce,  bonne  femme 39 

Sauce,  bonnefoy 40 

Sauce,  bordeaux 40 

Sauce,  bordelaise 40 

Sauce,  Bourgugonne 42 

Sauce,  brandy 101 

Sauce,  bread 40 

Sauce,  Breton  (Bretonne) 41 

Sauces,  brown 13-16 

Sauce,  brown  apple 97 

Sauce,  brown  caper 44 


Sauce,  brown  butter 41 

Sauce,  brown  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce,  brown,  vs.  Espagnole ....  11 

Sauce,  brown,  fish 42 

Sauce,  brown  herb 48 

Sauce,  brown  mushroom 45 

Sauces,  brown  savory 16 

Sauce,  brune  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce,  brune,  pour  poisson 42 

Sauce,  Bulgard 42 

Sauce,  Burgundy 42 

Sauce,  butter 42 


,uce,  Byron 43 

Sauce,  Calville 43 

Sauce,  Cambridge 43 

Sauce,  Canopere 44 

Sauce,  caper  (capres)  brune 44 

Sauce,  caramel 101 

Sauce,  cardinal 44 

Sauce,  celery 44 

Sauce,  celery  cream 45 

Sauce,  champagne 45 

Sauce  champignons  (blanche) 

(brune) 45 

Sauces,  characteristic  of 14 

Sauce,  chasseur 46 

Sauce  Chateaubriand 46 

Sauce,  chaudeau 102 

Sauce,  chaudfroid  (blanche) 47 

Sauce,  cherry 98,  102 

Sauce,  chestnut 47 

Sauce,  chevreuil 48 

Sauce,  chocolate 102 

Sauce,  chutney 48 

Sauce  au  citron 63 

Sauce,  claret 103 

Sauce,  coffee  (custard) 103 

Sauce,  Colbert,  fines  herbes 48 

Sauces,  cold 15-16 

Sauce,  cold  batarde 37 

Sauce,  cold  Bulgarian 41 

Sauce,  cold  Cambridge 4$ 

Sauces,  cold,  chaudfroids If 

Sauce,  cold  chocolate 10> 

Sauce,  cold  cucumber 4f 

Sauce,  cold  game 50 

Sauce,  cold  ravigotte 7f 

Sauces,  cold  salad 19 

Sauce,  cold  salmon 81 

Sauce,  cold  strawberry 108 

Sauce,  cold,  Swedish 84 

Sauces,  cold  sweet 16 

Sauces,  compound 34 

Sauce  aux  concombers,  chaude.49,  50 
Sauces,  condiment  (kitchen) 

(table 109 

Sauce,  cornflour 10S 

Sauce,  crab 59 

Sauce,  cranberry 59,  93 

Sauce,  crapaudine 46 

Sauce,  crayfish 52 

Sauce  cream  (creme) 49 

Sauce,  creamed  butter 43 

Sauce,  creme  tomate 86 

Sauce  aux  crevettes 82 


Sauce,  Cumberland 50,  95 

Sauce,  curacoa 104 

Sauce,  curry  (currie) 51 

Sauce,  custard 103 

Sauce,  for  cutlets,  reforme 79 


126 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 


Sauce,  damson 98 

Sauce,  Danish  (Danoise) 51 

Sauce,  demi-glace 51 

Sauce,  demi-provencale 78 

Sauce,  deviled  (diable) 52 

Sauce  a  la  diable 95 

Sauce,  duchesse 52 

Sauce,  Dunraven 112 

Sauce,  Dutch 58,  59 

Sauce  echalote 52 

Sauce,  cerevisse 52 

Sauce,  egg 72 

Sauce  empress 112 

Sauce,  epicure  (ep  curienne) . .  52,  53 

Sauce,  espagnole 53 

Sauce  espagnole  (vs.  brown  sc) .  .  11 

Sauce,  essence  de  gibier 54 

Sauce  a  1'estragon 54 

Sauce,  farmhouse 54 

Sauce,  fawn  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce  fennel  (fenouil) 54 

Sauce  fermiere 54 

Sauce  fmanciere 54 

Sauce,  fine  herb 65 

Sauce,  fish 91 

Sauce  Flemish  (Flamande) 54 

Sauce  fleurette 54 

Sauce,  foam 104 

Sauces,  foundation 11 

Sauces,  fruit 97 

Sauce,  game 55 

Sauce,  Garibaldi 55 

Sauce,  gauffe 56 

Sauce,  generale 55 

Sauce,  Genoise 55 

Sauce,  gibier 55 

Sauce,  giblet 56 

Sauce,  glacee  verte 88 

Sauce,  Granville 57 

Sauce,  good  woman 39 

Sauce,  gooseberry 56,  98 

Sauces  and  gravies,  distinction 

between 6 

Sauce,  green  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce,  green  Dutch 60 

Sauce,  green  herb 87 

Sauce,  green  mousseline 57,  71 

Sauce,  Gribiche 57 

Sauce  aux  groseilles  vertes 56 

Sauce,  hachis 58 

Sauce,  half-glaze 51 

Sauce,  ham 58 

Sauce,  hard. 104 

Sauce  Hessoise 58 

Sauce    hollandaise    (and    inex- 
pensive)  58-59 

Sauce,  hollandaise  verte 60 

Sauce  Holstein 60 

Sauce,  homard 64 

Sauce  Horly 60 

Sauce,  horseradish 60 

Sauces,  hot 15 

Sauce,  hot  batarde 37 

Sauce,  hot  cucumber 50 

Sauce,  hot  (fried  chicken) 78 

Sauce,  hot  horseradish 61 

Sauces,  hot,  list  of 15 

Sauces,  hot,  plain 15 

Sauce,  hot  ravigote 79 

Sauces,  hot  savory 16 


.....j,  hot,  sweet 15,  16 

i,uce,  hot  strawberry 108 

Sauce,  hot  Swedish 84 

Sauces,  how  to  tammy 33 

Sauce  huitres  (aux) 74 

Sauce,  hure  de  sanglier 61 

Sauce,  iced  green 88 

Sauce,  iced  horseradish 61 

Sauce,  Indian  curry 62 

Sauce,  Indienne 62 

Sauce,  Italian  (Italienne) 62 

Sauce,  Jamaica 104 

Sauce,  jambon 58 

Sauce,  Joinville 62 

Sauce,  jus  d'  orange 74 

Sauce,  kari 63 

Sauce,  Kirsch 105 

Sauce,  lemon 63 

Sauce,  liqueur 105 

Sauce,  livournaise 64 

Sauce,  lobster 64 

Sauce,  Lyonnaise 64 

Sauce  madeira  (madere) 64 

Sauce,  Madras 112 

Sauce  maintenon 65 

Sauce,  maitre  d' hotel 65 

Sauce  making,  history  of 3 

Sauce,  malaga 65 

Sauce,  Maltise 65 

Sauce,  marmalade 105 

Sauce,  maraschino 105 

Sauce,  marchand  de  vin 66 

Sauce  Marguery 66 

Sauce,  marinade 66 

Sauce  mariniere 66 

Sauce,  Marseillaise 67 

Sauce,  matelote,  blanche,  brune .  67 
Sauce,  Maximilian. 


Sauce  mayonnaise 68 

Sauce,  Medicis 69 

Sauce,  melted  butter 69 

Sauce,  melted  butter,  sweet 108 

Sauce,  mint  (menthe) 69 

Sauce,  mirabeau 70 

Sauce,  miroton 70 

Sauce,  moelle  de  boeuf 38 

Sauce,  Moka  pudding 105 

Sauce,  Mornay 70 

Sauce  aux  moules 72 

Sauce  moutarde 71 

Sauce,  mushroom,  brown,  white. 45 

Sauce,  mussel 72 

Sauce  mousseline  verte 57 

Sauce  mustard 71 

Sauce,  Nantua 72 

Sauce,  Newcastle 112 

Sauce  Nicoise 72 

Sauce  noisette 72 

Sauce  nonparielle 72 

Sauce  Normande 72 

Sauce  Norvegienne 72 

Sauce,  nut 72 

Sauce,  nutmeg 105 

Sauce  aux  oeufs  (dur) 72 

Sauce  aux  oignons 73 

Sauce,  onion 73,  113 

Sauce,  Oporto 99 

Sauce,  orange 73,  98,  106 

Sauce,  Orly 60 

Sauce,  oseille 74 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 


127 


Sauces,  overcooking  of 14 

Sauce,  oyster 74 

Sauce  au  pain 40 

Sauce,  paprika 75 

Sauce,  Parisienne 75 

Sauce,  parsley 65,  75 

Sauce,  pauvre  homme 77 

Sauce  Pekoe 75 

Sauce,  pepper 77,  96 

Sauce  perigueux 75 

Sauce  persU  (persillade) 75 

Sauce  piment 75 

Sauce,  pink  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce,  piquante 76 

Sauce,  piquante  tartare 76 

Sauces,  plain 13,  15 

Sauce,  poivrade 77 

Sauce  Polish 77 

Sauce  Polonaise 77 

Sauce  pompadour 77 

Sauce,  poor  man's 77 

Sauce,  Portugaise 77 

Sauce,  poulette 77 

Sauce,  prawn 52 

Sauce  princesse 78 

Sauce,  Prince  de  Galles 78 

Sauce,  Prince  of  Wales 78 

Sauce,  provencale 78 

Sauce,  Queen  Mary 113 

Sauce  Raifort,  chaude,  f rappee ..  61 

Sauce,  raisin 99 

Sauce,  raspberry 107 

Sauce,  ravigote 96 

Sauce,  ravigotte  chaudfroid 79 

Sauce,  red  wine  rasin 100 

Sauces,  reduction  of 15 

Sauce,  ref onne 79 

Sauce,  regent  (regence) 79 

Sauce  Reine-Marie 113 

Sauces,  relish  (kitchen)  (table) . .  109 

Sauce,  remoulade 79,  96 

Sauce,  remoulade,  Indienne 96 

Sauce,  rhubarb  and  banana 106 

Sauce,  Ricardo 80 

Sauce,  rich  brown  fish 56 

Sauce,  riche 80 

Sauce,  Richelieu 80 

Sauce,  Robert 80 

Sauce,  Roman  (Romaine) 80 

Sauce  Rouennaise 80 

Sauce,  Royal 80 

Sauce,  Royal  chasseur 46 

Sauce  Ruisseau 90 

Sauce,  rum 106 

Sauce,  Ruspian  (Russe) 81 

Sauce,  sabayon 107 

Sauce,  salmi  salmy 81 

Sauces,  salad 16,  92 

Sauces,  savory 16,  34 

Sauce,  savory  chestnut 48 

Sauces,  savory,  for  fish,  game, 

meat,  poultry,  vegetables 34 

Sauce,  Seville 82 

Sauce,  shallot 52 

Sauce  sharp 76,  82 

Sauce,  shrimp 82 

Sauces,  simple 13 

Sauce,  sorrel 74 

Sauce,  soubise 82 

Sauce,  Soyer 83 


Sauce,  Spadicini 81 

Sauce,  Spanish 53 

Sauces,  stock  for 29 

Sauces,  store 109 

Sauce,  stragotte 84 

Sauce  Suedoise,  hot 84 

Sauce,  sultana 99 

Sauce,  supreme 84 

Sauces,  sweet 16,  100,  107 

Sauce,  sweet  chaudfroid 107 

Sauce,  sweet  chestnut 48 

Sauce,  sweet  lemon 107 

Sauce,    sweet    melted    butter, 

mousseline,  orange 108 

Sauce,  tamarind 99 

Sauce,  tammy,  how  to 33 

Sauce,  tartare 85,  96 

Sauce,  tarragon 54 

Sauce  tarragon  cream  (herb) . .  .114 

Sauce,  Texas  (Texienne) 85 

Sauce,  tomato 85,  114 

Sauce,  tomato  chutnee 115 

Sauce,  tomato  cream 86 

Sauce,  tomato  mayonnaise 69 

Sauce,  tomato  soubise 83 

Sauce,  tortue 86 

Sauce  trufile 75 

Sauce,  turtle 86 

Sauce,  universal  (universelle) 115 

Sauce,  Valancia 109 

Sauce,  Valentine 86 

Sauce,  Valoise 86 

Sauce,  vanilla 109 

Sauces,  various  kinds  of 15 

Sauce,  veloute 13,  86 

Sauce,  velvet 86 

Sauce  venison 48,  87 

Sauce,  Venitienne 87 

Sauce,  verte  mousseline 71 

Sauce,  vert-pre 87 

Sauce,  Victoria 89 

Sauce,  villeroi 88 

Sauce,  vinaigrette 89 

Sauce,  vin  blanc 88 

Sauce,  watercress 90 

Sauce,  Wargrave 8f 

Sauce,  whip 104 

Sauces,  white 13,  16 

Sauce,  white 90 

Sauce,  white  bechamel 38 

Sauce,  white  chaudfroid 47 

Sauce,  white  fish 91 

Sauce,  white  mousseline 70 

Sauce,  white  mushroom 45 

Sauce,  white,  simple 90 

Sauce,  white  wine 88 

Sauce,  wine 109 

Sauce,  wine  merchant 66 

Sauce,  Worcestershire 115 

Sauce,  Xavier 91 

Sauce,  Yankee 116 

Sauce,  York  (Yorkshire) 91 

Sauce,  Zingara 92 

Sabayon  sauce 107 

Salad  sauce,  almond,  for  fruit. . .  100 

Salad  sauces 16,  92 

Salad  sauces,  cold 16 

Salad  dressing  (Spanish) 113 

Salmon  sauce,  cold 81 

Salmy  sauce  (salmi) 81 


128 


THE   BOOK   OF   SAUCES 


Salt 19 

Salt  or  pepper,  pinch  of 23 

Savory,  25,  47;  jelly 34 

Savory  chestnut  sauce 48 

Savory  cream 49 

Savory  sauces 16,  34 

Savory  sauces,  brown,  white,  hot  16 
Savory  sauces  for  fish,  game, 

meat,  poultry,  vegetables 34 

Seasoning,  characteristic  of 14 

Seasoning  and  flavoring 17 

Seville  sauce. . .  . .  82 

Shallot 27 

Shallot  sauce 52 

Sharp  sauce 76,  82 

Shrimp  butter 120 

Shrimp  sauce 82 

Sicilienne  sauce 82 

Simple  sauces 13 

Simple  white  sauce 90 

Sorrel  sauce 74 

Soubise  sauce 82 

Soubise  tomato  sauce 83 

Soyer  sauce 83 

Spadacini,  sauce 83 

Spanish  butter 118 

Spanish  sauce 53 

Spanish  salad  dressing 113 

Spices 20 

Spice,  aromatic 22 

Stock,  fish 30 

Stock  making,  hints  on 29 

Stocks,  preparations  from 30 

Stock  roux 8 

Stock  for  sauces 29 

Store  sauces 109 

Stragotte  sauce 84 

Strawberry  sauce,  cold,  hot 108 

Sugar 28 

Suedoise  sauce,  hot 84 

Sultana  sauce 99 

Supreme  sauce 84 

Swedish  sauce,  cold,  hot 84 

Sweet  lemon  sauce 107 

Sweet  melted  butter  sauce 108 

Sweet  chaudfroid  sauce 107 

Sweet  chestnut  sauce 48 

Sweet  orange  sauce 108 

Sweet  mousseline  sauce 108 

Sweet  sauces 16,  100 

Sweet  sauce 107 

Sweet  sauces,  cold 16 

Sweet  sauces  (forcroutes,  fritters, 

fruit  timbales) 100 

Sweet  sauces,  hot 15,  16 

Sweet  sauces  for  puddings,  hot, 

sold 100 

Syrup  punch 106 

T  Tamarind  sauce 99 
Tammy  sauces,  how  to 33 

Tartare  sauce 85,  96 

Tartare  sauce,  piquante 76 

Tarragon 24 

Tarragon  cream  and  herb  sauces.  114 

Tarragon  sauce 54 

Taste,  cook's  duty  regarding. ...  14 

Texas  (Texienne)  sauce 85 

Thyme 24 

Timbales,  fruit,  sweet  sauces  for.  100 


Tomatee  bearnaise  sauce 38 

Tomato  aspic 36 

Tomato  butter  (beurre) 118 

Tomato  chutnee  sauce 115 

Tomato  catsup Ill 

Tomato  cream  sauce 86 

Tomato  mayonnaise 94 

Tomato  mayonnaise  sauce 69 

Tomato  sauce 85,  114 

Tomate,  sauce  creme  a  la 86 

Tomato  sauce,  Soubise 83 

Tortue  sauce 86 

Truffle  mayonnaise 95 

Trufflle  sauce 75 

Turnips 27 

Turtle  sauce 86 

Universal  (universelle)  sauce 115 

VValancia  sauce 109 
Valentine  sauce 86 

Valoise  sauce 86 

Vanilla 28 

Vanilla  sauce 109 

Vegetables,  savory  sauces  for 34 

Veloute  sauce 13,  86 

Velvet  sauce 86 

Venison  sauce 48,  87 

Venitienne  sauce 87 

Verte  glacee  sauce 88 

Verte  sauce,  hollandaise 60 

Verte  sauce,  mousseline 57,  71 

Vert-pre  sauce 87 

Viande,  glace  de 31 

Victoria  sauce 89 

Vinaigrette 97 


Vinaigrette  sauce „ 

Vin  blanc  sauce 88 

Vinegar 27 

Villeroi  sauce 88 

Volaille,  essence  de 32 

\17Walnut  catsup Ill 

Y "  Wargrave  sauce 89 

Watercress  butter 119 

Watercress  sauce 90 

Whip  sauce 104 

White  chaudfroid  sauce 47 

White  fish  sauce 91 

White  mousseline  sauce 70 

White  mushroom  sauce 45 

White  roux 7 

White  sauces 13,  16 

White  sauce  (simple) 90 

White  sauce,  bechamel 38 

White  savory  sauces 16 

White  wine  sauce 88 

Wine  merchant  sauce 66 

Wine  raisin  sauce,  red 100 

Wine  sauce 109 

Wine  sauce,  white 88 

Worcestershire  sauce 115 


Xavier  sauce. . 


91 


Yankee  sauce ; 116 

York  (Yorkshire)  sauce 91 

Zingara  sauce.   -   92 


Popular  Handbooks 

for  Hotel,  Restaurant,  Transportation 
Catering,  Institution  and  Club  Use 


Ranhofer's  Epicurean:  The  king  of  cook  books  is  "The 
Epicurean,"  by  Charles  Ranhofer,  of  Delmonico's.  This 
book  is  1,200  pages,  and  weighs  about  ten  pounds.  It  is 
the  most  extensive,  the  most  complete,  the  most  readable, 
the  most  attractive,  and  the  best  all-around  cook  book 
that  has  ever  been  published.  The  first  chapter  is  devoted 
to  table  service,  with  instruction  in  menu-making  and  the 
care  and  service  of  wines,  the  decoration  of  the  table,  the 
fixing  of  the  sideboard,  complete  dining  room  instructions 
for  the  service  of  course  dinners.  French  and  Russian 


144  pages  of  menus  for  breakfasts,  luncheons,  dinners, 
buffet  or  standing  suppers,  collations,  hunting  parties, 
garden  parties,  dancing  parties,  etc.  All  dishes  in  these 
menus  are  numbered  to  conform  with  recipes  for  them  in 
the  body  of  the  book.  There  is  a  chapter  on  elementary 
methods,  in  which  even  the  drudgery  work  in  the  kitchen 
is  explained,  and  all  the  work  done  by  apprentices  in  the 
early  stages  of  hotel  kitchen  work.  The  chapter  on  kitchen 
utensils  is  very  full,  every  utensil  illustrated.  Then  come 
the  recipes:  200  soups,  251  sauces,  133  garnishes,  191  side 
dishes,  101  shell  fish,  218  fish,  165  beef,  165  veal,  75  mut- 
ton, 109  lamb,  48  pork,  224  poultry,  163  game,  198  miscel- 
laneous entrees,  267  salads,  172  vegetables,  100  eggs,  37 
farinaceous  foods,  233  sweet  entrees,  170  cakes,  17  breads, 
189  ices  and  iced  drinks,  90  confectionery,  and  several 
illustrations  of  centerpieces.  There  is  an  exhaustive  chapter 
on  wines,  several  recipes  for  mixed  drinks,  and  64  pages 
devoted  to  a  collection  of  Delmonico  menus.  The  index 
occupies  44  double-column  pages.  There  are  more  than 
800  illustrations.  A  most  excellent  feature  of  The  Epi- 
curean is  that  every  recipe  in  it  appears  under  a  good 
honest  English  name,  alongside  of  which  is  the  translation 
of  it  into  French.  It  is  beautifully  bound  in  Keratol  Levant 
grain,  embossed  in  gold.  Price $7.00 

The  Edgewater  Beach  Hotel  Salad  Book  (Shircliffe).  Con- 
tains more  than  600  tested  recipes  for  salads  and  salad 
dressings.  Mr.  Shircliffe  has  not  only  given  the  recipes, 
but  in  many  cases  has  supplemented  them  with  author's 
notes,  calling  attention  to  special  health-giving  features, 
and  suggesting  diets  for  the  different  ailments  that  afflict 
humans.  He  also  takes  opportunity  to  preach  many  a 
short  sermon  on  the  importance  of  right  eating  and  what 
is  best  for  health  from  the  cradle  to  old  age.  He  also 
intersperses  much  of  human  interest  in  the  way  of  anec- 
dote, legend  and  historic  events.  In  this  way  it  is  more 
than  a  cook  book — it  is  readable  to  those  who  are  not  so 
much  interested  in  how  to  make  salads  as  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  them.  The  great  charm  of  the  book  is  the  illustra- 
tions, which  are  from  direct  photographs  in  the  natural 
colors,  so  that  the  dishes  illustrated  have  the  eye-appeal 


and  the  enticing  qualities  of  the  real  dish.  It  is  a  book 
that  fits  into  every  kitchen — home,  hotel,  club,  hospital, 
restaurant,  lunch  room,  cafeteria,  steamship,  dining  car, 
industrial  catering  plant,  institution,  army  mess — in  fact, 
wherever  information  is  desired  as  to  the  why  and  how  to 
prepare  for  the  table.  Price $5.00 

Salad  Portfolio  (Shircliffe).  A  set  of  beautiful  illustra- 
tions of  salads  taken  from  the  Edgewater  Beach  Salad 
Book.  They  are  mounted  on  heavy  green  cover  stock, 
11  x  16  inches,  each  showing  three  or  four  of  the  salads 
and  are  suitable  for  framing.  The  portfolio  may  be  used 
by  the  maitre  d'hotel  to  assist  him  in  selling  party  menus. 
The  illustrations  are  so  natural  and  appetizing  that  they 
make  strong  appeal  to  patrons  when  selecting  the  salad 
course  for  special  menus.  Also  these  pictures  serve  as  a 
guide  to  pantry  girls,  showing  them  how  the  finished  salad 
should  look.  Price $2.00 

The  Edgewater  Sandwich  Book  (Shircliffe).  Supplemented 
with  chapters  on  hors  d'oeuvres,  supremes,  canapes  and 
relishes.  More  than  600  recipes.  This  book  is  by  the  author 
of  the  Edgewater  Salad  Book,  the  most  important  culinary 
book  produced  in  recent  years.  There  are  thirty  illustra- 
tions of  sandwiches  and  hors  d'oeuvres.  It  will  meet  the 
requirements  of  all  kinds  of  refreshment  places  from  the 
soda  fountain  to  lunch  room,  tea  room  and  high-class 
restaurant.  Bound  in  convenient  pocket  size.  Price. .  .$2.00 

The  Hotel  St.  Francis  Cook  Book  (Hirtzler).  The  author 
was  chef  of  Hotel  St.  Francis,  San  Francisco.  Adapted  for 
hotels,  restaurants,  clubs,  coffee  rooms,  families  and  every 
place  where  high-class,  wholesome  cuisine  is  desired.  This 
is  the  most  important  culinary  book  that  has  come  from 
any  press  in  the  last  twenty-five  years.  Mr.  Hirtzler  is 
known  thruout  Europe  and  America  as  one  of  the  ablest 
chefs  of  the  day.  He  made  the  cuisine  of  the  Hotel  St. 
Francis  world-famous.  A  feature  of  the  Hotel  St.  Francis 
Cook  Book  that  will  be  appreciated  by  thousands  of  hotel 
people,  caterers,  families  and  all  interested  in  home  eco- 
nomics, is  the  selection  and  preparation  of  foods  in  sea- 
son ;  the  presentation  of  breakfast,  luncheon  and  dinner 
menus  for  every  day  in  the  year — the  selections  appro- 
priate, and  all  dishes  actually  prepared  and  served  in  the 
Hotel  St.  Francis.  This  feature  of  the  book  gives  a  sugges- 
tive quality,  a  reminder  attribute,  and  a  knowledge  of  food 
economies  and  food  attributes  that  is  hereby  brought  to 
the  aid  of  the  proficient  and  the  learner,  also  enables  even 
the  inexperienced  to  produce  the  well-balanced  menu.  The 
Hotel  St.  Francis  Cook  Book  is  indexed  and  cross  indexed 
so  that  every  recipe  can  be  referred  to  on  the  instant. 
Price  $3.00 

A  Selection  of  Dishes  and  The  Chef's  Reminder  (Chas. 
Fellows).  The  book  that  has  met  with  the  largest  sale  and 
is  in  most  demand  from  managers,  stewards  and  cooks.  Is 
in  vest  pocket  form,  220  pages.  The  most  complete  and 
serviceable  pocket  reference  book  to  culinary  matters  that 
has  ever  been  published.  It  is  not  a  cook  book,  in  the  gen- 
eral sense  of  the  word,  but  is  full  of  ideas  and  suggestions 
regarding  bill-of-fare  dishes.  Chapters  are  devoted  to  en- 
trees of  all  kinds,  salads,  soups,  consommes,  fish  and  their 
sauces,  sauces  in  general,  garnishes,  fancy  potatoes,  miscel- 
laneous recipes,  hints  to  cooks  and  stewards,  suggestions 
for  breakfast,  lunch  and  supper  dishes,  chafing  dish  cook- 
ery, menus,  and  a  pronouncing  glossary  of  culinary  terms. 
Hundreds  of  the  dishes  listed  are  given  with  their  bill-of- 


fare  names  only,  as  the  cooks  understand  the  basic  work 
in  preparing  dishes,  and  the  sauces  and  gardnishes  are 
treated  separately,  with  information  as  to  their  component 
parts.  Thousands  of  men  who  possess  a  copy  of  this  book 
say  it  is  their  greatest  help.  Printed  on  bond  paper,  bound 
in  flexible  cover.  Price $1.00 

The  Culinary  Handbook  (Chas.  Fellows).  Presents  in 
concise  form  information  regarding  the  preparation  and 
service  of  nearly  4,000  different  bill-of-fare  dishes;  also 
gives  much  information  of  encyclopedic  nature  regarding 
foods  of  all  kinds.  Quick  reference  to  every  dish  prescribed 
is  facilitated  with  an  index  of  39  columns  arranged  in 
alphabetical  order,  and  cross  indexed,  so  that  no  matter 
what  one  is  looking  for,  all  he  has  to  do  is  to  find  the 
initial  letter  and  under  it,  in  alphabetical  order,  for  sec- 
ond, third  and  fourth  letters,  etc.,  the  article  wanted,  with 
page  on  which  it  is  found.  Referring,  for  instance,  to  a 
sauce  of  any  particular  kind.  Find  the  word  Sauce  in  the 
index,  and  under  it  will  be  found  in  alphabetical  order  149 
different  sauces;  and  under  Salads,  71  different  kinds, 
exclusive  of  the  variations  in  making.  Under  head  of  Sau- 
sage there  are  45  different  kinds  described,  with  directions 
for  making  as  well  as  cooking  and  serving.  In  fact,  the 
sausage  information  in  this  book  is  more  complete  than  in 
any  other  published.  190  pages;  7x10  inches $2.00 

Fellows'  Menu  Maker  is  the  last  of  the  successful  ready 
reference  books  compiled  by  Chas.  Fellows,  author  of  "A 
Selection  of  Dishes  and  The  Chef's  Reminder"  and  "The 
Culinary  Handbook."  In  this  book  Mr.  Fellows  has  com- 
piled in  concise  form  thousands  of  suggestions  for  daily 
changes  on  the  bills-of-fare,  both  American  and  European 
plan,  for  breakfast,  luncheon  and  dinner  cards,  and  so  ar- 
ranged as  to  give  popular  changes  from  day  to  day  to  give 
acceptable  variety.  These  changes  include  soups,  fish, 
boildes,  entrees,  roasts  and  specials.  In  their  presentation 
he  starts  with  typical  bills-of-fare,  and  the  changes  are 
such  as  might  be  made  in  these  bills  from  day  to  day. 
Also  he  has  presented  a  chapter  entitled  "Suggestions  for 
Specials  for  the  Day,"  in  which  the  dishes  are  priced  and 
underlined  with  brief  information  regarding  their  composi- 
tion. Also,  he  submits  several  sample  menus  for  business 
lunches,  banquets,  and  small  party  dinners,  and  one  very 
serviceable  feature  of  the  book  is  a  list  of  the  most  pop- 
ular dishes,  as  soups,  fish,  boiled  meats,  roasts,  and 
entrees.  The  book  is  supplemented  with  110  pages  of  sam- 
ple menus  and  bills-of-fare,  several  of  them  photographic 
reproductions,  and  representing  the  cards  of  hotels  and 
restaurants  of  both  first  and  second  class,  lunch  rooms, 
transportation  catering  menus,  club  menus,  wine  list, 
caterer's  list,  and  several  illustrations  of  glass,  china  and 
silverwares  and  banquet  scenes.  The  book  is  indexed; 
printed  on  fine  quality  paper;  page  7x10  inches,  cloth 
bound.  Price $2.00 

Clarenbach's  Hotel  Accounting.  In  writing  this  book  it 
was  Mr.  Clarenbach's  purpose  to  outline  a  simple  system 
of  hotel  accounting  that  would  meet  the  needs  of  the  aver- 
age hotels,  particularly  of  hotels  from  50  to  200  rooms. 
His  first  book  was  published  in  1908  and  the  system  was 
adopted  by  thousands  of  hotels.  Since  then  there  have  been 
two  revisions  to  meet  new  C9nditions  of  the  more  modern 
hotels.  This  is  the  third  revision,  thoroly  up-to-date,  and 
with  illustrations  that  show  the  actual  account  books  rul- 
ings and  facsimile  entries;  and  the  text  matter  is  so  clear 
that  one  need  not  be  a  practical  bookkeeper  to  understand. 


The  book  is  in  four  parts,  these  covering  all  departments. 
It  shows  how  to  get  storeroom  "per  dollar"  costs';  how  to 
handle  the  cigar  business;  how  to  get  an  accurate  state- 
ment of  the  hotel's  business  from  month  to  month,  and  a 
method  of  auditing  the  front  office.  A  "Profit  and  Loss" 
statement  is  shown.  The  text  matter  emphasizes  the  impor- 
tance of  being  accurate,  of  a  check  on  every  transaction, 
and  the  economy  of  doing  things  the  right  way,  thus  pre- 
venting vexatious  mistakes  that  take  valuable  time  in  mak- 
ing corrections,  and  giving  the  operator  the  satisfaction 
that  comes  from  being  master  of  his  business.  Hotels  now 
having  workable  accounting  systems  can  find  in  the  Clar- 
enbach  book  ideas  that  may  be  incorporated  by  them  to 
advantage.  Also  they  will  find  the  Clarenbach  system 
elastic,  and  its  results  can  be  put  on  a  comparable  basis 
with  results  obtained  fiom  other  systems  of  hotel  account- 
ing. The  book  is  supplemented  with  a  chapter  headed  "An 
outline  of  the  front  office  methods  of  the  largest  hotel  in 
the  world."  The  book  is  9x12  inches  and  contains  66 
pages,  printed  on  ledger  paper,  attractively  bound  in  cloth 
cover.  Price $3.00 

Front  Office  Psychology  (Heldenbrand).  This  is  the  only 
book  that  outlines  rules  of  conduct  for  the  people  in  the 
front  office  who  meet  the  public,  where  a  pleasing  person- 
ality and  correct  habit  of  deportment,  speech,  dress,  and 
all-around  cleanliness  makes  for  ideal  salesmanship.  The 
suggestions  are  classified  under  different  heads  as  Em- 
ployee relations,  Your  personality,  Receiving  and  rooming 
faests,  Handling  of  mail,  Information,  Checking  out, 
ront  office  tactics.  The  book  is  written  from  the  prac- 
tical viewpoint  of  a  student  of  human  nature,  and  in  this 
respect  is  a  classic.  It  inspires  to  an  improvement  in 
service  and  can  be  read  with  profit  by  young  and  old  in 
the  small  or  the  large  hotel,  or  institution,  or  business 
house.  Pocket  size,  5x8  inches,  100  pages.  Attractively 
bound  in  water-proof  cover.  (A  special  price  is  made  to 
hotels  and  chains  of  hotels  buying  in  quantities  of  ten  or 
more.)  Price  $1.00 

The  Bell-Boy's  Guide  (Heldenbrand).  This  book  was 
written  with  the  object  of  training  young  men  of  good 
habits  in  the  duties  customarily  performed  by  bell-boys. 
It  was  prepared  by  the  author  to  instruct  those  not  fa- 
miliar with  hotels  in  the  particular  bell-boy  work  required 
for  his  own  hotel  —  the  Hotel  Heldenbrand  of  Pontiac, 
Michigan.  With  slight  variation  this  book  will  meet  the 
needs  of  the  average  hotel  thruout  America.  It  is  pocket 
size,  32  pages.  (A  package  of  four  books  for  1.00.) 
Price  $1.00 

Paul  Richards'  Pastry  Book  is  the  title  in  brief  of  "Paul 
Richards'  Book  of  Breads,  Cakes,  Pastries,  Ices  and 
Sweetmeats,  Especially  Adapted  for  Hotel  and  Catering 
Purposes."  The  author  is  known  as  one  of  the  most  skillful 
all  around  bakers,  pastry  cooks  and  confectioners  in 
America,  and  has  demonstrated  the  quality  of  his  work  in 
leading  hotels.  In  writing  this  book  he  took  particular 
pains  to  have  the  recipes  reliable  and  worded  in  such  sim- 
ple fashion  that  all  who  read  them  may  readily  understand 
and  work  from  them.  The  book  is  in  seven  parts.  Part  I 
is  devoted  to  fruit  jellies  and  preserves;  jams,  jellies, 
compotes  and  syrups ;  preserved  crushed  fruits  for  sher- 
bets and  ices;  preserving  pie  fruits ;  sugar  boiling  degrees; 
colors.  Part  II,  pastry  and  pie  making,  pastes  and  fillings; 
pastry  creams,  patty  cases,  tarts  and  tartlets;  icings.  Part 
III,  cake  baking.  Part  IV,  puddings  and  sauces.  Part  V, 


ice  creams,  ices,  punches,  etc.  Part  VI,  breads,  rolls,  buns, 
etc.  Part  VII,  candy  making  and  miscellaneous  recipes; 
bread  economies  in  hotel ;  caterers'  price  list.  The  recipes 
are  readily  found  with  the  aid  of  36  columns  of  index  and 
cross  index  in  the  back  of  the  book,  this  index  forming  in 
itself  a  complete  directory,  so  to  speak,  of  breads,  pastry, 
ices  and  sugar  foods.  Printed  on  strong  white  paper;  page 
7x10  inches,  168  pages,  bound  in  cloth $2.00 

Pastry  for  the  Restaurant,  by  Paul  Richards,  a  vest 
pocket  book  of  158  pages,  is.  as  its  title  indicates,  espe- 
cially produced  for  the  use  of  bakers  employed  in  restau- 
rants and  European  plan  hotels.  The  style  of  work  required 
for  the  American  plan  hotel  with  table  d'hote  meal,  and  that 
for  the  European  plan  hotel  restaurant,  where  each  article 
is  sold  for  a  separate  price,  has  brought  about  a  demand 
for  a  book  with  receipts  and  methods  especially  adapted 
for  the  preparation  of  bakery  and  pastry  goods  for  indi- 
vidual sale.  The  first  chapter  is  devoted  to  French  pastries, 
which  are  now  so  generally  sold,  yet  so  little  understood, 
because  of  the  misnomer  title;  then  follows  cakes  and 
tarts  of  every  kind;  pies  in  great  variety;  puddings,  hot 
and  sold ;  ices,  ice  creams,  and  many  specialties,  all  set 
forth  with  ingredients,  quantities,  and  methods  of  mixing 
and  preparing,  and  instructions  for  oven  or  temperature 
control.  Mr.  Richards'  other  books  have  become  standard 
the  world  over,  and  this  one  will  be  equally  reliable.  The 
index  to  this  book  makes  a  very  complete  reference  to 
popular  pastry  goods  and  will  be  found  valuable  as  a 
reminder.  The  book  is  printed  on  bond  paper $1.00 

The  Lunch  Room  (Paul  Richards),  is  the  newest  of  the 
culinary  books  and  bids  fair  to  become  one  of  the  most 
popular  ever  produced.  In  writing  this  book  Mr.  Richards 
covered  all  branches  of  the  business.  In  its  pages  can  be 
found  lunch  room  plans;  illustrations  of  equipment;  chap- 
ters on  management,  salesmanship  and  bookkeeping ;  sug- 
gestions for  bills-of-fare ;  reproduction  of  articles  from 
technical  journals  relating  to  lunch  rooms,  and  about  2,000 
recipes  for  lunch  room  dishes.  It  is  a  complete  guide  to 
making  and  marketing  lunch  room  foods  and  beverages. 
The  book  is  of  particular  value,  not  alone  to  those  who 
operate  lunch  rooms,  but  to  hotelkeepers  who  may  con- 
sider the  advisability  of  putting  in  a  lunch  room  in  con- 
nection with  their  business ;  a  departure  that  has  become 
very  general  since  so  many  country  hotels  are  changing  to 
modified  American  or  to  European  plan,  the  lunch  room 
being  the  stepping  stone  to  the  change.  Printed  on  fine 
quality  of  paper  strongly  bound $2.00 

The  Vest  Pocket  Pastry  Book  (John  E.  Meister).  This 
little  book  contains  500  recipes,  includes  57  for  hot  pud- 
dings (pudding  sauces,  etc.;  77  for  cold  puddings,  side 
dishes,  jellies,  etc. ;  90  for  ice  creams,  water  ices,  punches, 
etc.;  68  for  pastes,  patties,  pies,  tarts,  etc.;  77  for  cake; 
17  for  icings,  colorings,  sugars,  etc.;  60  for  bread,  rolls, 
yeast  raised  cakes,  griddle  cakes,  etc.,  as  well  as  55  mis- 
cellaneous recipes.  Mr.  Meister  wrote  this  book  at  the 
request  of  the  editor  of  The  Hotel  Monthly,  who  had  heard 
his  work  highly  complimented  by  his  employers,  who  said 
they  believed  him  to  have  no  superior  as  as  first-class 
workman.  The  recipes,  while  given  in  few  words,  yet  are 
easily  understandable,  and  have  helped  thousands  of  bakers 
to  improve  their  work.  Book  is  indexed ;  printed  on  bond 
paper.  Price $1.00 


The  Vest  Pocket  Vegetable  Book  (Chas.  G.  Moore),  has 
done  more  to  popularize  the  cooking  and  serving  of  vege- 
tables in  hotels  and  restaurants  than  any  other  book  ever 
published.  It  was  written  with  this  idea.  The  author  took 
particular  pains  to  make  this  little  volume  a  classic  and 
his  masterpiece,  and  he  succeeded  remarkably  well.  Into 
120  pages  he  has  condensed  more  information  regarding 
the  history,  cultivation,  nutritive  qualities,  and  approved 
forms  of  cooking  and  serving  vegetables  than  can  be 
found  in  any  other  book,  no  matter  how  large ;  and  it  has 
been  demonstrated  to  be  a  book  without  mistakes.  Recipes 
for  soups,  sauces,  garnishings  and  salads  supplement  the 
general  recipes.  There  are  78  ways  of  preparing  potatoes, 
19  of  mushrooms,  19  of  onions,  15  of  cabbage,  etc.,  27  of 
beans,  15  of  rice,  25  of  tomatoes,  and  others  in  number  in 
proportion  to  their  importance.  The  vegetables  are  given 
with  their  English  names  and  the  French  and  German 
translations.  The  book  is  indexed,  printed  on  bond  paper. 
Price $1.00 

The  Book  of  Sauces,  by  C.  Hermann  Senn,  is  the  newest 
of  The  Hotel  Monthly  Handbook  series.  Mr.  Senn  is  the 
author  of  the  famous  Twentieth  Century  Cookery  Book, 
The  Menu  Book,  Practical  Gastronomy,  and  ten  other 
culinary  books  that  have  become  standard  in  Europe,  and 
that  have  extensive  sale  in  America.  His  Book  of  Sauces 
is  the  most  complete  work  of  the  kind  that  has  ever  been 
produced.  It  treats  the  subject  thoroly  from  every  angle 
and  covers  all  kinds  of  sauces  for  meat,  poultry,  fish,  and 
salad  dishes;  also  sweet  sauces.  This  book  is  adapted  not 
alone  for  the  hotel  and^catering  trades,  but  also  for  family 
use  the  world  over.  Epicures  will  find  it  invaluable  for  the 
suggestions  and  practical  instructions,  together  with  the 
culinary  lore  therein  contained.  Book  is  vest  pocket  size, 
printed  on  bond  paper $1.00 

Ideas  for  Refreshment  Rooms.  This  book  is  composed 
mainly  of  expositions  of  catering  systems,  in  particular, 
tea  room,  lunch  room,  department  store,  cafeteria,  school, 
industrial  plant,  dining  car,  club,  and  outside.  A  valuable 
feature  of  it  is  the  illustrating  of  different  accounting  sys- 
tems and  report  forms;  also  plans  of  lunch  rooms,  kitchens 
and  pantries,  showing  consistent  lay-out.  There  are  more 
than  a  hundred  beautiful  half  tone  illustrations  picturing 
refreshment  rooms  of  many  kinds,  their  decoration,  and 
furnishment.  Complete  sets  of  menus  of  famous  catering 
establishments  are  presented;  also  a  large  number  of 
menus  to  fit  the  lunch  room,  cafeteria,  industrial  plant, 
or  school.  Thruout  the  book  there  is  a  plea  for  the  bal- 
anced ration  and  right  eating,  the  advocacy  of  plain  foods 
simply  prepared  and  appetisingly  served,  the  nutritive  value 
given  careful  consideration.  There  is  a  chapter  on  service; 
a  chapter  on  the  brewing  and  serving  of  tea  and  coffee; 
several  pages  devoted  to  pantry  prepared  foods ;  illustra- 
tions of  kitchens,  of  restaurant  checks,  and  of  many  inter- 
esting things,  as  electric  equipment ;  questions  of  fuel 
economy,  illumination,  and  a  hundred  and  one  clever  ideas 
in  the  marketing  of  prepared  foods  in  public  eating  houses. 
The  book  is  thoroly  indexed  and  cross  indexed  to  assure 
quick  finding.  385  pages,  cloth  bound.  Price $2.00 

The  Hotel  Butcher,  Garde  Manger  and  Carver.  (Frank 
Rivers.)  The  author  has  cultivated  a  new  field  in  culinary 
literature,  and  produced  a  book  both  novel  and  useful.  His 
experience  as  butcher,  carver,  chef  and  steward  enabled  him 
to  compile  facts  regarding  meats  and  meat  economics,  from 
the  butcher  shop  to  the  dining-room  table,  that  will  be  in- 
6 


yceha 


valuable  to  managers,  stewards,  chefs,  and  all  persons  em- 
ployed in  culinary  work.  His  book  digests  the  subjects  of 
buying,  handling,  sale,  and  service  of  meats,  poultry  and  fish 
for  hotels,  restaurants,  clubs  and  instiutions.  It  is  varied 
with  suggestions  for  the  use  of  meats  and  trimmings  for 
particular  dishes ;  the  composition  of  these  dishes  set  forth 
in  concise  form.  The  information  is  clarified  by  the  use 
of  about  300  illustrations.  The  index  is  so  comprehensive 
that  any  item  may  be  referred  to  on  the  instant.  125  pages. 
Price  $2.00 

"The  Advertising  of  Hotels"  by  Clarence  Madden  is  the 
first  practical,  comprehensive  inquiry  into  hotel  advertising 
ever  made  available.  It  is  the  only  book  which  treats  the 
problem  of  selling  rooms  and  service  in  its  entirety — pro- 
motion, publicity,  "in-the-house",  "word-of -mouth",  copy, 
appropriation,  media  selection,  and  agency  contact.  Mr. 
Madden  is  acquainted  with  both  sides  of  the  advertising 
picture.  His  book  brings  the  two  into  sharp  focus  and  shows 
their  proper  relationship.  .  .  .  Anyone  who  is  in  any  way 
affected  by  hotel  advertising  should  be  sure  to  have  on 
hand  a  copy  of  "THE  ADVERTISING  OF  HOTELS"  for 
study,  reference,  and  guidance.  136  pages.  Price $2.00 

The  Fish  and  Oyster  Book,  by  Leon  Kientz,  for  many 
irs  chef  of  Rector's  (the  noted  sea  foods  restaurant  in 
icago),  is  a  handy  vest  pocket  volume,  the  leaf  measur- 
ing 3x6^  inches.  In  this  book  Mr.  Kientz  tells  in  concise 
manner  how  to  cook  practically  every  kind  of  fish  that  is 
brought  to  the  American  market;  and  not  only  explains 
the  method  of  cooking,  but  also  the  making  of  the  sauces 
and  the  manner  of  service.  Every  recipe  is  given  with  its 
bill-of-fare  name  in  English  and  its  translation  into  the 
French.  The  recipes  include  also  such  dishes  as  frogs' 
legs,  all  kinds  of  shell  fish,  snails,  terrapin,  and  the  fish 
forcemeats.  Also  there  is  an  appendix  with  specimen  fish 
and  oyster  house  luncheon  and  dinner  menus,  with  and 
without  wines.  The  book  is  indexed,  printed  on  bond 
paper,  bound  in  flexible  cover $1.00 

Economical  Soups  and  Entrees  (Vachon).  This  book  was 
written  in  response  to  a  demand  for  a  book  that  would 
tell  how  to  prepare  savory  dishes  from  inexpensive  mate- 
rials at  small  cost;  and,  in  particular,  how  to  use  up  left- 
overs ;  by  which  is  meant  good  cooked  foods  not  served 
at  a  previous  meal,  and  which  have  not  in  any  way  lost 
their  marketable  value  in  the  sense  of  deterioration  of 
quality,  but  which  can  be  served  in  hotel  or  restaurant  in 
the  same  appetizing  manner  that  leftovers  are  served  in 
well-to-do  families.  Mr.  Vachon  was  selected  to  write  this 
book  because  of  his  reputation  as  an  economical  chef.  In  it 
he  has  given  recipes  in  particular  for  meat  entrees  of  the 
savory  order,  stews,  pies  and  croquettes,  hash,  salads  and 
fried  meats.  The  soups  include  creams,  broths,  bouillons, 
chowders,  purees,  pepper-pots  and  the  like.  It  is  two  books 
in  one,  separately  indexed,  printed  on  bond  paper,  leaf  3x7 
inches,  bound  in  flexible  cover.  Price $1.00 

Eggs  in  a  Thousand  Ways,  by  Adolphe  Meyer,  gives  more 
reliable  information  regarding  eggs  and  their  preparation 
for  the  table  than  can  be  found  in  any  other  book.  Is 
indexed  and  cross  indexed  so  that  any  method  of  cooking 
eggs  and  any  of  the  garnishings  can  be  referred  to  on  the 
instant.  The  book  starts  with  boiled  eggs.  Then  (following 
the  departmental  index  in  alphabetical  order)  are  cold 
eggs,  79  ways;  egg  drinks,  22  kinds;  eggs  in  cases,  25 


ways;  in  cocottes,  24  ways;  mollet,  79  ways;  molded  in 
timbales,  29  ways;  fried,  33 ;  fried  poached,  38;  hard 
eggs,  32;  miscellaneous  recipes,  27;  omelets  in  210  ways; 
poached,  227  ways;  scrambled,  123;  shirred,  95;  stuffed, 
hard,  34;  surprise  omelets,  9;  sweet  eggs,  16;  sweet  ome- 
lets 38.  The  recipes  are  in  condensed  form.  The  book  is 
vest  pocket  size,  150  pages,  printed  on  bond  paper. .  .$1.00 

The  American  Waiter  (John  B.  Coins)  is  the  only  pub- 
lished book  that  treats  intelligently  of  the  waiter's  work 
from  bus  boy  to  head  waiter,  for  both  hotel  and  restaurant 
requirements.  The  author  has  recently  completed  Part  2 
of  this  book,  the  new  part  devoted  largely  to  European 
plan  service,  and,  combined  with  Part  1,  which  is  devoted 
largely  to  American  plan  service,  has  rounded  out  a  man- 
ual which  is  very  valuable  to  those  who  would  give  table 
service  of  the  kind  suited  for  the  average  hotel.  Inter- 
spersed in  the  book  are  chapters  on  the  care  of  table 
wares,  salad  making,  table  setting  carving,  dishing  up, 
banking  of  sea  foods,  building  of  banquet  tables,  and 
many  other  useful  items  of  information.  The  book  is  illus- 
trated, vest  pocket  size,  printed  on  bond  paper $1.00 

The  Van  Orman  System  of  Hotel  Control.  A  book  illustrat- 
ing and  describing  the  many  forms  used  in  the  hotels  of  the 
Van  Orman  Chain  of  hotels.  Price $1.00 

Requirements  of  a  Good  Bed.  This  is  a  36-page  booklet 
containing  chapters  on  Bedsprings,  Mattresses,  Pillows, 
Sheets,  Blankets,  Washing  Blankets,  and  a  Linen  Control 
System.  It  is  a  collection  of  exceedingly  informative  articles, 
which  first  appeared  in  The  Hotel  Monthly.  They  are  now 
offered  in  this  handy,  compact  form,  neatly  bound  for  ref- 
erence purposes.  Every  hotel  manager  and  every  hotel 
housekeeper  will  want  to  possess  a  copy  of  "Requirements 
for  a  Good  Bed".  Not  only  is  it  a  good  reference  work,  but 
it  serves  as  an  educational  piece  of  literature  for  those 
members  of  the  staff  who  seek  advancement  and  are  serious 
in  the  performance  of  their  work.  Price 50  cts. 

Candy  for  Dessert   (Richards).  Price    $1.00 

Drinks  (Jacques  Straub).  Mrs.  Jacques  Straub,  widow  of 
the  author  of  this  book,  has  published  a  new  edition,  the 
foreword  in  which  is  by  "Oscar"  of  The  Waldorf-Astoria, 
commending  "Drinks"  for  its  missionary  work  as  a  tem- 
perance book.  It  appeals,  in  particular,  to  caterers  in 
foreign  countries  where  American  "mixed  drinks"  are  pop- 
ular. Price  $1.00 

Clifford  M.  Lewis'  "American  Plan  Check  System".  .$1.00 


Prices  subject  to  change,  up  or  down, 
according  to  market  conditions 


Hotel  Monthly  Bookshop 

JOHN  WILLY,  Inc. 
950  Merchandise  Mart,  Chicago,  111. 


ffflfffl 

, Js.  JR  JR.  .     •  ^  A  .=**  .: 


&L  JE  JR.  JB.  ML  Jte  JK  .  JR.  -»  Js.  •«.  •««.  Jk  A 
a^l 


^ 

-n 

g 

s 

2 

fc 

Qw 

ro 

Jfc 

Q 

Oi 

vl5 

^  W 

9P 

cn^ 

CO 

Hc/5 

^*>J 

CD 

p 

i^j  W 

g§ 

5  9 

s 

w 

